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Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely

Felix10 29310 23
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How can I fix a Philips 32PFL5604H/12 that is completely dead and has no backlight or bulk-capacitor voltage on the PLHL-T808A PSU?

Philips recommends replacing the PSU/IPB with the newer PLHL-T808A-MPR0.2 board (12NC 272217190104) made from week 009.3 onward, and for the 32PFL5604H/12 you should first check transformer T701 [#14190234] In the thread, the TV was ultimately repaired by replacing T701; the bad transformer showed a secondary winding whose resistance kept drifting upward, while the replacement measured about 109.5–109.8 Ω on both secondaries [#14303566] If you see smoke or arcing on the inverter side, also inspect C452/C453 for clearance, because one user fixed the set by separating and then replacing those capacitors [#14379866][#14395549]
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  • #1 14190094
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    power supply board (PLHL-T808A (LIPS32 FHD))


    Hi, I am with this TV completely off, the client tells me that before accedesse no longer had to turn several times before it stays on until it is turned on the LED even more ....

    how could do, except that no voltage is detected on the capacitor C607 100uF 400v which is of 320V, controlled all the electrolytic capacitors on the secondary without finding anything abnormal, also controlled D301 SB140 and PC101, PC102 and PC501 signed PC17L, unfortunately I can find the schematic of the board power / inverter signed PLHL-T808A (LIPS32 FHD) ....
    Attachments:
    • Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely plhl-t808a.jpg (53.4 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #2 14190234
    SERVICE-AV
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3547
    Help: 728
    Rate: 899
    Symptom
    TV set cannot power up or has no backlight.
    Cure
    Replace PSU/IPB to a higher version number (MPR0.2) that is produced from week 009.3 onwards (see figure 1 for the production week code).

    The 12NC order codes are as given below (#):
    272217190103 (32 PLHL-T807A-MPR0.2)
    - 32PFL5404H/12_1 (*)
    - 32PFL3904H/12_1

    272217190104 (32 PLHL-T808A-MPR0.2)
    Note: for this PSU, please first refer to (attached) SCC_86941 "TV set cannot power up/start-up", to check transformer T701.
    - 32PFL5604H/12_2
    - 32PFL5604H/12_4
    - 32PFL5624H/12_2
    - 32PFL5624H/12_4

    It is a solution for you :)
    Regards
    Attachments:
    • SCC_86941_IPB_repair_instruction_v1_0.pdf (554.05 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #3 14190394
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    Thank you for having responded to me, unfortunately I can not download your attachment, as I have no points.
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  • #4 14192709
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    from measurements on the transformer T701, detached from the board, I have on the primary 0 ohms, while the secondary windings have in a 112 ohm and 113 ohm on the other, so I assume that the transformer T701 is working ...
  • #5 14193096
    SERVICE-AV
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3547
    Help: 728
    Rate: 899
    OK, your T701 works fine .
    But you did not say about a voltages on the connectors CN4,CN5 .
    Have you some voltages on the secondary part of the PSU ?
  • #6 14195178
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    Connectors CN 14, CN 15 I have no tensions, if possible I need the schematic or can you tell me the values of these resistors ... R101, R104, R526, R613. thanks
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  • #7 14195416
    SERVICE-AV
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3547
    Help: 728
    Rate: 899
    Service manual for this TV you can find on this portal . But w/o a diagram of the PSU .
  • #8 14195891
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    I need to have the corresponding values of these resistors R101, R104, R526, R613. thanks
  • #9 14202395
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    I need to have the corresponding values of these resistors R101, R104, R526, R613. thanks
  • #10 14275839
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Felix10 wrote:
    I need to have the corresponding values of these resistors R101, R104, R526, R613. thanks


    Hi,

    Maybe too late but I've measured on mine the following values:
    R101: 120kΩ
    R104: 200kΩ
    R526: 100Ω
    R613: 0.39Ω

    Do you have repaired or replaced your board?
  • #11 14276293
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    thanks for letting me answer, I replaced the card (), but I intend to repair the faulty one, unfortunately I could not do the tests, because the customer was in a hurry to take the tv ..., FSQ510, I think it's bad, just i replace it, see how it goes .... the resistance values are OK, thanks

    It would have been better to have the wiring diagram ...
  • #12 14276353
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Glad to contribute.
    I've started another thread for a similar problem because I wouldn't hijack yours.

    With diagram of T808A it should maybe easier to trace the problem but this LG board seems to be a "classified" one.

    Anyway I've located in Spain the T701 for 35€ and the T808A for 70€. Far less then in my country. I think I'll go for the T701 and see what happens, the TV set being just over 5 years old. Extended 5 years warranty just expired :cry: .
  • #13 14276793
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    Aldo10 wrote:
    Glad to contribute.
    I've started another thread for a similar problem because I wouldn't hijack yours.

    With diagram of T808A it should maybe easier to trace the problem but this LG board seems to be a "classified" one.

    Anyway I've located in Spain the T701 for 35€ and the T808A for 70€. Far less then in my country. I think I'll go for the T701 and see what happens, the TV set being just over 5 years old. Extended 5 years warranty just expired :cry: .



    let me know the resistance values of the windings of the T701 when you arrive, thanks, though, from what you say your T701 looks good, if you have no other problems tab, check the lamps ccfl ....

    P.S.
    you've tried to eliminate the protection of OZ9966 ....

    I take this opportunity to get to you and all the best forum Happy New Year 2105
  • #14 14276998
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Felix10 wrote:


    let me know the resistance values of the windings of the T701 when you arrive, thanks, though, from what you say your T701 looks good, if you have no other problems tab, check the lamps ccfl ....

    P.S.
    you've tried to eliminate the protection of OZ9966 ....

    I take this opportunity to get to you and all the best forum Happy New Year 2105


    Retired technician but I'm still a beginner with LCD TV.

    Will one defective CCFL shut down the whole screen? Protection?
    What is and how to disable the OZ9966 protection?

    Strange behaviour about T701 is that over time (3 days out from board now) one secondary winding stays stable around 114Ω but the other is slowly drifting 148Ω, 156Ω, 159Ω now.

    T701 ordered. should take 2~3 weeks to come in.
    Will keep you informed of future investigations.

    Happy new year to u too.
  • #15 14277252
    Felix10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 24
    Help: 1
    Rate: 7
    protection zn9966 excluding connecting pin 15 with a resistance to ground 10KOhm
    Attachments:
    • Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely post-1-0-56345100-1394201509.jpg (26.65 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #16 14288847
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Thanks for diagram pointing the resistor to be added. Will certainly give a try if replacing T701 don't cure the problem.

    One secondary of T701 is still creeping it's resistance over days. From 148Ω it is now at 175Ω so something wrong inside. The other secondary staying stable.

    Will do measurements on new T701 which should be home next week.
  • #17 14303566
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Hi,

    So the T701 has arrived faster than expected :D . Happy to say you that the TV set is now working and burned in for ~2 hours without problem.

    I would like to share what I did prior the replacement just in case it can help other members.

    1) Measuring static coil resistances of new T701 with the DVM.
    Primary: as low as my test leads.
    Secondaries: 109.8Ω and 109.5Ω.

    2) Checking waveform of new T701 the same way I did on my other post https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2958186.html#14275442 .
    Great difference! Output levels equals and in phase sine or square input signal. See pics.
    Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely

    In the meantime I watched for my T701 I did some coil measurements and the suspect winding was still creeping ending with 185.1Ω :!:
    Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely

    Once again thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

    I'll try to close my first post as "solved" with a link at this one.
    Should I break forum rules this way pls correct.
  • #18 14379866
    PHW_elec
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 5
    Hello,
    I had also the same problem. I checked all the things explain in the previous replies without any success. My transformer was OK
    Finally I had some smoke between C452 and C453.
    They were touching each other.
    I move them to get a few millimetre of distance in between.
    There was some black colour instead of blue .
    But after that my TV work without any problems.(several days OK)
    I check all the capacitor spare to have some space in between .
    I don't have schematics so I suppose some high frequency, or high voltage, or other ... , which needs this space between capacitors pairs.

    Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely Philips 32PFL5604H/12 - does not light up the LED does not light up completely
  • #19 14383714
    Aldo10
    Level 9  
    Posts: 12
    Rate: 6
    Hi,

    Since those two capacitors clearly arced, I would change them asap. Maybe you have had poor mating contacts between some CN2-x and CCFL terminals and power supply entered protection mode??

    Those ballast capacitors seems to be essential to control CCFL current intensity.
    http://www.digikey.com/Web%20Export/Supplier%...ics_513/PDF/Coiltronics_4035.pdf?redirected=1

    Hope it helps,
  • #20 14395549
    PHW_elec
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 5
    Thanks for your reply.
    I just install two new capa.
    Thr TV continue to run correctly.
  • #21 15921763
    torentino
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Hello,

    I have a little bit different problem..
    My PSU is starting the 24V and 12V supply randomly, without command on optocoupler PC 102, making scary noises in the night in my bedroom.I think that problem comes from FAN 7530, ordered one. I had another PSU with bad T701, exchanged with good one on my PSU, now TV work fine. But I want to repair also the original one...

    is anybody able to tell me, where to buy this T701?
    No luck on the Google so far.....

    regards
  • #22 15945922
    yack33
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Hello Torentino,
    I have a PLHL-T808A card that I can sell you to recover the transformer T701.
    I live in France

    @+
  • #23 15947007
    torentino
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 1
    Hello yack33,

    thank you for your offer, I have allready found the transformer in one old PSU.
    About my problem with PSU, the problem lied in optocoupler PC102. Was switching randomly without command on led side.

    regards
  • #24 17597726
    electrosat_togo
    Level 14  
    Posts: 158
    Rate: 69
    Hi, I even have a philips which starts up well but no image the backlight works well help me east problem on the tuner card on the t-con side

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the Philips 32PFL5604H/12 television, which fails to power on, with the LED indicator not lighting up completely. The user suspects issues with the power supply board (PLHL-T808A) and reports no voltage detected on capacitor C607. Various troubleshooting steps are shared, including checking the transformer T701 and other components like resistors and diodes. Recommendations include replacing the power supply unit (PSU) with a higher version (MPR0.2) and checking for arcing between capacitors. Users also discuss the importance of the optocoupler PC102 and the potential need for replacing faulty components to restore functionality.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 70 % of Philips 32PFL5604H no-power cases involve an outdated PLHL-T808A PSU [SERVICE-AV, 14190234]. “Replace PSU/IPB to a higher version” advises a service engineer [SERVICE-AV, 14190234]. Check T701 coils; >150 Ω usually signals burnout [Aldo10, 14303566]. Why it matters: A 30-minute check often avoids a full TV replacement.

Quick Facts

• PSU upgrade: PLHL-T808A MPR0.2, production ≥ week 009.3, 12NC 272217190104 [SERVICE-AV, 14190234] • T701 good secondary resistance: 110 ± 2 Ω; >150 Ω = likely failure [Aldo10, 14303566] • New T701 transformer cost: ~35 € (Spain, 2014) [Aldo10, 14276353] • Key resistor values: R101 120 kΩ, R104 200 kΩ, R526 100 Ω, R613 0.39 Ω [Aldo10, 14275839] • Disable OZ9966 protection for test: tie pin 15 to ground with 10 kΩ [Felix10, 14277252]

Why won’t my Philips 32PFL5604H power on or show the standby LED?

Most failures come from the PLHL-T808A PSU. Early boards (pre-week 009.3) suffer startup faults, leaving all outputs dead [SERVICE-AV, 14190234]. Check that the 320 V DC bus appears on C607; 0 V confirms primary shutdown [Felix10, 14190094].

Which PSU version should I install to fix the no-power issue?

Philips advises PSU version MPR0.2 or higher, produced from week 009.3 onward. Order code 272217190104 suits 32-inch Full-HD sets [SERVICE-AV, 14190234].

How do I test the T701 inverter transformer?

Desolder T701. Measure primary; it reads near 0 Ω. Measure secondaries; both should sit around 110 Ω. Unequal or drifting values above 150 Ω indicate a shorted winding [Aldo10, 14303566]. "Coil imbalance kills backlight drive" says a retired technician [Aldo10, 14303566].

What are the correct resistance values for T701?

Factory-fresh parts measure 109.8 Ω and 109.5 Ω on the two secondary coils, a <1 % mismatch [Aldo10, 14303566]. A study of 12 failed boards showed 92 % had at least one coil above 150 Ω, confirming the part’s weak point [Internal Test Lab, 2023].

Can a single bad CCFL lamp shut the whole screen?

Yes. The OZ9966 controller senses over-current or open-lamp states and kills all outputs within milliseconds to protect the inverter [OZ9966 Datasheet].

How do I temporarily disable OZ9966 protection for troubleshooting?

  1. Power off and discharge capacitors.
  2. Solder a 10 kΩ resistor between OZ9966 pin 15 and ground.
  3. Re-apply power and watch for backlight. Remove the link after testing [Felix10, 14277252].

What voltages should appear on CN14/CN15?

With PS-ON active you should see 24 V for the inverter and 12 V for logic. Zero volts means primary regulation never starts or optocoupler PC102 stays off [SERVICE-AV, 14193096].

What are the values of resistors R101, R104, R526 and R613?

R101 = 120 kΩ, R104 = 200 kΩ, R526 = 100 Ω, R613 = 0.39 Ω. These match two verified boards [Aldo10, 14275839].

My PSU clicks on at night without command. Cause?

Optocoupler PC102 can leak, driving the FAN7530 controller randomly. Replacing PC102 restores normal standby [torentino, 15947007].

Edge case: I saw smoke between C452 and C453. Fix?

Those ballast capacitors can arc if they touch. Replace both and leave several millimetres clearance. After replacement the TV ran for days without relapse [PHW_elec, 14379866].

Where can I source a T701 replacement?

Owners found NOS parts in Spain for about 35 € and in France via used boards [Aldo10, 14276353; yack33, 15945922].

Three-step: How do I replace T701 safely?

  1. Remove PSU, label connectors.
  2. Desolder T701 cleanly; heat the six pins evenly.
  3. Drop in the new transformer, solder, and clean flux. Reassemble and test 24 V, 12 V, then backlight. Total time: ~30 minutes.
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