Mixing 2/3 Plaster and 1/3 Gypsum for Cans: Strength and Adhesion Queries

Hello,
I have recently come across the opinion that the cans can be placed on a mixture of 2/3 plaster (apparently light gypsum knauf is suitable for this) + 1/3 plaster. The subject concerned the quick drying of plaster, but the question was whether such a mixture:
1) not too weak for cans?
2) whether the mixing of the above-mentioned materials will not cause the lack of "catchiness" of the obtained specificity?

It can also be mounted on a mixture of gypsum and construction plaster.

Hello
you can specify the questions, , can you ..? do you have to ..?
What I was taught mainly after construction sites is how the world is around the world, it was deposited on the building gypsum, and in order to delay the bonding, paint glue and milk were poured in, the `` construction worker '' creates a hard, durable mortar, sometimes even too much

And I heard that to delay the setting of plaster, you need to add milk, so told me the old bricklayer. Unfortunately, I did not do the tests.

My colleague mentioned the milk faster.

Basically, I mean if if I used the above-mentioned the mixture, would I significantly increase the risk of tearing the can when pulling the cable harder (my interlocutor said that I was not surprised a bit)

Quote:

would I significantly increase the risk of a can tearing out with a stronger one pulling the cable

I do not advise you to learn this.
In my opinion, the mixture of construction and putty gypsum does not interfere with anything.
Anyway, you can search, for example:

and compare with the properties of putty, according to PN-B-30042: 1997.

I was dumb.
Regarding the above answers;
1) Gypsum filler = gypsum plaster or is the mixture I have changed incorrect and you point me to the correct one?
It seemed to me that gypsum filler and gypsum plaster have different uses

This is not a pharmacy recipe.
The can should stick to the wall and that's it. And whether you do it with building plaster or tile adhesive, it's up to you.

As for milk - you know that it is ringing, but you do not know which church.
LIME milk is used as a setting gypsum retarder, which has nothing to do with cows.

the cow was pouring too I would ask a question; how many of these cans per hour do you need to settle? is it some kind of racing, building plaster and nothing to add to it.

I add some sand and cement to the plaster. It binds slower than plaster itself and is much stronger.

It just seems so to you.
Plaster and cement do not mix. Either the cement will not cure at all in such an environment, or the whole thing will crack or swell.

Building gypsum is dirt cheap. I have a flexible cup for kneading so that I always crush the leftovers and keep them clean. When I cut it, I will always have some left and I throw it away, it can be considered a waste of material but what counts for me is that I would not have to wait to dry. Sometimes it happens that you have to hold a plaster-covered element so that it does not move by itself so much to spite, and here the building advantage is quickly grasped.

There are magicians working in a bucket but it quickly realizes what they did wrong, but they are scabies with professional experience and practice in the EU.

If the hole is not covered with dust, nothing will burn and tearing such a can is tantamount to destroying it. There is no ... it would be possible to break free, but for those who want nothing difficult.

And if, despite everything, something went wrong and despite the nice filling of the can, the can is moving, it remains to inject the mounting foam and there should be a git.

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

(...) what counts for me is that I do not have to wait to dry up. Sometimes it happens that you have to hold a plaster-covered element so that it does not move by itself so much to spite, and here the building advantage is quickly grasped.

This is the idea behind building plaster - it's supposed to set quickly. If it bothers someone, let them settle on a knaufa or other ... or make a lot less trouble :lol:

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

If the hole is not covered with dust, nothing will burn and tearing such a can is tantamount to destroying it.

When depositing, I always use a dispenser (for glass cleaner) filled with water, I moisten the dust residue and the gypsum remains firm after it has been concentrated.

Building gypsum, when properly mixed, does not bind so quickly. Correctly means: pour water into the fandle, add plaster and mix in literally two movements. Then, when packing gypsum under the cans, use a spatula to select gypsum and water as it suits us. If the plaster is mixed for too long, it then sets quickly. A similarly badly cleaned fandel - here I recommend the rubber ones.

If the hole to be patched is larger, sand can be added to the plaster.

Anyway, for fans of patches, there is still hot glue.
The can is glued on, and then it is processed with plaster, glue or whatever.
Anyway, more and more often plasterers or plasterers even ask them to catch the can only for such slime, because then it is easier for them to do.

zdzisiek1979 wrote:

Building gypsum is dirt cheap.

The author asks about the deposition of cans for gypsum plaster ...
Well, I have made some such imprisonments. Out of laziness, of course - you did not want to mess with plaster, since plasterers were machine-mongering Knauf. Of course, sprinkle the hole with water (or better "soil"), apply more mortar than "on the blot" and press the can to "suck in".

In addition, in my practice, the cans were embedded by plasterers (to flush with plaster) and none of them enjoyed themselves in a fuss. I do not know anything that a user would tear the socket together with the box when removing the plug.

zbich70 wrote:

In addition, in my practice, the cans were embedded by plasterers (to flush with plaster) and none of them enjoyed themselves in a fuss. I do not know anything that a user would tear the socket together with the box when removing the plug

Builders have other advantages -

Let me tell you that there are junction boxes under the drawings ... with unconnected wires

In the raw state, as a rule, I also do not embed the cans, as plasterers do it on the face. On the other hand, only building plaster during renovations.

chemik143 wrote:

Building gypsum, when properly mixed, does not bind so quickly. Correctly means: pour water into the fandle, add plaster and mix in literally two movements. Then, when packing gypsum under the cans, use a spatula to select gypsum and water as it suits us. If the plaster is mixed for too long, it then sets quickly. A similarly badly cleaned fandel - here I recommend the rubber ones.

The fact that you have to pour water first, and then put plaster on, I agree.
The plaster, however, must be well mixed, the base of the lumps - a uniform mass.
I was once taught that when bursting bubbles appear on the surface, plaster can be used. Personally, I have never looked at it and I get upset on my feelings. Sometimes the need is denser, sometimes less frequent.

Darkdarkman wrote:

Anyway, for fans of patches, there is still hot glue.
The can is glued to it, and then it is treated thoroughly with plaster, glue or whatever.
Anyway, more and more often plasterers or plasterers even ask them to catch the can only for such slime, because then it is easier for them to do.

I used to fasten the wires to the thermo stick, sometimes giving a handle or a plaster stick, but for cans ???

The glue is not an assembly element here, but rather holding for further processing, as there is no construction plaster at hand, but only, for example, a leveling mortar that binds lightning long.

Friend bad70 wrote one important thing that I missed. Namely, the can and the thrown mortar / plaster / etc - must be sucked in.


As for mixing plaster with something else. Sometimes, when I am running out of plaster on my robot, and it is no longer profitable to go in front of the winder for a new bag, I simply mix it with other loose material available at the construction site. Sometimes it is even debris.

My favorite thing is to stock Rotband. It binds slowly, you can mix half a bucket at a time and when it dries it is really hard and holds the cans very well.
Of course, if I do not have Rotband, because I did not plan to fill the cans that day, but the job went better than I thought and you have to fill the cans, I use everything that is available at the construction site and it is best if it is based on plaster and not cement (although with glue) I also planted the plates), somehow I do not care about fast bonding and some stabilization of the can with thermo glut will not break down. Generally, filling cans is a simple job and there is nothing to be excited about when the hole is dust-free and moistened, in addition, the mortar must be applied to the bottom of the can and pressed together with the can into the hole until it sucks (as colleagues wrote earlier) what you are looking for it won't seat it will be fine and it won't fall out.
Let everyone use whatever is convenient for them.

masonry wrote:

My favorite thing is to stock Rotband. It binds slowly, you can mix half a bucket at a time and when it dries it is really hard and holds the cans very well.

Or some other gypsum glue. The best, checked many times. Diluted, it will stay in a container for two hours, and on the wall it will catch much faster.