Connecting ELECTROLUX EEB4231POX Oven & SAMSUNG NA64H3010AS Gas Hob to a Double Wall Socket

Hello.
I have a problem with which I decided to turn to you (professionals) as I often use the advice you give to other users of this forum.

My problem is that during the installation of the oven (ELECTROLUX EEB4231POX, the oven has an original power cable with a factory plug) it turned out that the double socket provided for connection after connecting the plugs does not allow to insert to the end of the oven (I also intended to connect the cable from the magneto to the socket from gas hob SAMSUNG NA64H3010AS). The carpenter who does my kitchen advised me to connect the oven and the spark plug to an extension cord connected to the adjacent socket (unfortunately, the length of the cable from the oven does not reach the neighboring sockets). Fortunately, after reading a few threads on the forum, I found out that connecting the oven to an extension cord is a bad idea.
I thought I'd remove the existing double socket behind the oven and replace it with a double wall socket, which I'd place on the floor behind the oven (this way it won't interfere with the back wall of the oven). Is this a good solution or is there a better one? I am going to use a standard 'Schneider Electric' 16A 250V double wall socket. Of course, I have to extend the cord in the existing socket. For this purpose, I am going to use a 3x2.5mm cable and here I have another question, should the wires be connected with the "twisting" method? Or maybe with a cube?

I count on the opinions of experts and valuable advice.

Regards

Hi. Reforge the groove below and fill the box with a new socket, twist the wires, solder them, wrap them with good insulation and it will last forever.
kiss

Moderated By retrofood:

In order to help you, you must first know yourself. Warning, point 3.1.11 of the regulations.

The problem is that the kitchen cabinets are already mounted and I have no idea how to get to and mount this socket lower in the wall.

I would not pay a carpenter-furniture designer for a kitchen that has defects, or have him disassemble it, and I would invite an electrician to prepare the installation for the kitchen design - you cannot use the oven. I wonder when this bungling and "let someone else worry" will end.

I do not blame the electrician because together we determined where the socket for the oven will be located. Unfortunately, the carpenter on the vision before making the kitchen did not foresee that there could be a collision here. It's already hard. So I am asking for opinions on the reconstruction of the socket and the way of connecting the wires.

The oven is probably new under warranty, so my colleague read all the manufacturer's suggestions on the connection (Department; electrical installation. The plug must be original and available to you. So attempts to cut it or hide it behind the oven may end badly.

Paszos wrote:

Do you connect the wires together by twisting?

We do not use partisan solutions.

I have read the instructions and I am aware that modifying an existing plugin may void the warranty, so I want to avoid such a solution. First of all, I care about the expert's opinion or the solution I propose (leading the cable out of the box and connecting it to the wall socket, which will be located, if possible, under the cabinets or behind the neighboring cabinet. An additional question is how to connect the cable connecting the existing cable in the box with a new socket?Writing about "twisting" I mean solid.twisting both wires together with screwing the conical nut with a spring.

Paszos wrote:

First of all, I care about the expert's opinion or the solution I propose (leading the cable out of the box and connecting it to the wall socket, which will be located, if possible, under the cabinets or behind the adjacent cabinet.

From bida you can do this if the socket will not lie on the floor or near the floor. It should be permanently attached. However, I would dismantle the cabinets, make installations under the plaster. Then cut the appropriate holes for the cable with the plug in the back of the cabinets and it's ready.

Paszos wrote:

An additional question is, with such a solution, how to connect the cable connecting the existing cable in the box with the new socket? When I write about "twisting", I mean solid. twisting both wires together with screwing the conical nut with a spring.

So how? Do you twist it firmly with pliers and then screw on the twist connector? I will immediately write that this is an incorrect execution of this connection.
It will be better if you buy decent screw connectors - observing the rule that the wires are to be tightened with two screws (overlap).

Thanks for the specific answer

Łukasz-O wrote:

[ respecting the principle that the wires are to be tightened with two screws (overlap).

put the wires into the cube from one side?

You can, but not necessarily, the point is that each inserted cable is tightened by two screws. Whether on one side or on both sides.

Can you give me a link to that connector? Because I've only seen classic cubes where the wires are fastened with one screw or WAGO connectors.

Have you seen something like that?

You just need to choose the right diameter.

Ok, I thought you meant some other kind of cube. Am I to understand that in your opinion this way of connection (of course both wires are long enough to be caught by both screws) is the most reliable? Will 2 2.5mm wires fit in this cube?

Paszos wrote:

Am I to understand that in your opinion this way of connection (of course both wires are long enough to be caught by both screws) is the most reliable?

Is it the surest? It all depends on the workmanship and quality of the purchased connectors.

Paszos wrote:

Will 2 2.5mm wires fit in this cube?

Yes, they will, provided you choose the right diameter - I wrote about it.
Six would be best.

Łukasz-O wrote:

Paszos wrote:

Am I to understand that in your opinion this way of connection (of course both wires are long enough to be caught by both screws) is the most reliable?

Is it the surest? It all depends on the workmanship and quality of the purchased connectors.
Yes, they will, provided you choose the right diameter - I wrote about it.
Six would be best.

Yes, that's a very good solution.
Because the contact is on the entire length of the hole.
There is no problem with choosing a skirting board - the whole range is available.
The fitting does not have to be 'in one piece'.

Screwed and soldered connections should not be completely condemned.
Old electrical art. Disadvantage = not removable, but not everything has to be removable.

CYRUS2 wrote:

Screwed and soldered connections should not be completely condemned.
Old electrical art. Disadvantage = not removable, but not everything has to be removable.

And that the standard recommends avoiding such connections.

I would not recommend this "orange" twist cube due to their low quality, the oven takes its toll..

How about installing a wall socket on the side wall of the adjacent cabinet? I would extend the existing cable from the box so as to let the cable through the hole in the back wall to the adjacent cabinet and mount the wall socket there. I will lead the cables from the oven and gas hob behind the cabinets and through the hole in the back wall of the cabinet I will let them inside and connect to the socket. In this way, I will have constant access to both plugs when needed and the socket will not be located on the floor. In addition, this procedure does not require the disassembly of the kitchen.
Attached is a picture with a diagram of this solution.

pawlik118 wrote:

I would not recommend this "orange" twist cube due to their low quality, the oven takes its toll..

Can you explain the relationship of quality with the fact that the oven takes a lot?

The seller in the electrical warehouse recommended me to connect the cables with such a connector http://www.tme.eu/pl/details/2273-202/listwy-zaciskowe/wago/ and I think he will decide on such a solution.

I was disappointed in the quality of these cubes. The cable cannot be tightened properly. And the relationship is that the greater the current, the greater the power loss on the connection, so the increase in operating temperature. I do not know what currents such cubes are designed for, but for my safety I would not use them to connect the oven.

CYRUS2 wrote:

pawlik118 wrote:

I would not recommend this "orange" twist cube due to their low quality, the oven takes its toll..

Can you explain the relationship of quality with the fact that the oven takes a lot?

pawlik118, are you talking about the orange cubes or the connectors that I posted in the last post?

pawlik118 wrote:

I was disappointed in the quality of these cubes. The cable cannot be tightened properly. And the relationship is that the greater the current, the greater the power loss on the connection, so the increase in operating temperature. I do not know what currents such cubes are designed for, but for my safety I would not use them to connect the oven.

The orange "cubes" are one of the best on the market. The transparent milky ones are the worst.
Can you give an example of what you think is best. Because right now you are writing to write.


To the author, you can use Wago, the manufacturer declares 24A.

pawlik118 wrote:

I was disappointed in the quality of these cubes. The cable cannot be tightened properly. .

You don't need to tighten super hard at all.
You can't do it - that's your problem. You've made a "partisan" connection.
There is the same brass in each cube.
A properly made connection does not heat up.

I would also like to add that my orange "cubes" (supposedly bad according to a friend pawlik118 ) have a much higher rated current than the Wago.

The Simet company for the "six" declares 41A
link

Not so... but...
Today I saw one time in a row, a degraded vein after using LZtki. Because it's still a terminal strip, right? If the connection is to be forever - "cube". In any other case - WAGO.

I had previously written:

Łukasz-O wrote:

It all depends on the workmanship and quality of the purchased connectors.

Łukasz-O wrote:

The Simet company for the "six" declares 41A

41A does not apply to post #9
This is the option of a single cable for a screw.

Dude, according to method post #9 it is much more than 41A.
Because only part of the current flows through brass.
The current flows directly between the veins.
Set screws only tighten - they do not participate in the current flow - their share is negligible.
Just pushing the wires in such a length gives good contact.