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Building a Wind Power Plant with an Alternator: Managing Battery Charging and Excitation

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How do I connect a wind turbine alternator to a battery so the battery doesn’t overcharge or discharge from excitation, and what should I do with excess power when the battery is full?

Use a proper voltage regulator and a rectifier/diode on the alternator output so the battery is charged one way only and cannot backfeed into the generator [#15063639][#15067106] Do not keep the excitation winding powered all the time from the battery; instead, switch excitation on only after the rotor reaches a set speed with a low-current speed-sensing circuit that draws only a few dozen mA [#15063639] For excess energy when the battery is already full, use a controller that gives the batteries priority and then switches the surplus to a dump load such as a heater, preferably with PWM so the load comes in smoothly [#15785261] Several replies also warn that a car alternator is a poor wind generator because it needs high RPM, around 900–1200 rpm or even more, and the gearing losses make the usable power small [#15063795][#19827006] Because of that, people recommend a purpose-built low-speed generator, for example a rewound washing-machine motor with neodymium magnets and an external regulator, instead of a standard alternator [#15068533][#15785423]
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  • #31 15789469
    Anonymous
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  • #32 15794276
    kasperek21
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    Should I refuse "BEER"? hehe
    Moderated By Krzysztof Reszka:

    3.1.14. Publishing entries inconsistent with the topic of a given forum section or discussion thread

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  • #33 15794281
    Edek45
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    kasperek21 wrote:
    Should I refuse "BEER"? hehe

    And I wonder what else.
    Moderated By Krzysztof Reszka:

    3.1.14. Publishing entries inconsistent with the topic of a given forum section or discussion thread

  • #34 15794533
    Anonymous
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  • #35 19826858
    michal_dniepr
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    hey, I also want to make a wind power plant from an alternator. I already have one from a truck. originally, the alternator is able to produce 36V100A, I plan to limit this current to 12V, how much A can be produced in medium wind, we'll see. the windmill wants to use a vertical, simple structure that allows the use of gears. what do you think.
  • #36 19827006
    MichałS
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    A long way ahead of you. By installing magnets, you will completely change the nature of the generator. It will be uncontrollable, and by adjusting the excitation current, it was possible to soft start and control the maximum power. The second basic thing is turnover; the alternator "likes" high so over 3,000. No re-windmill reaches that speed. Also from horizontal it will be hard; unless it will have 2 blades ~ 30cm long but it will give 30W at the output.
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  • #37 19833910
    michal_dniepr
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    I have an alternator from a truck, these have a lower RPM. I want to give up the excitation winding to reduce the internal resistance. I think so. I count the scope of work. i.e. the current it will generate will range from x to 36v. I am going to limit it to 12v. If the revs are too low, I'm thinking about a gearbox. belt drive. maybe 1:2. My biggest concern is whether the field from the magnets will be strong enough. In theory neodymium magnets should work. I'm still wondering about polarization. but everything will come out with experiments. maybe someone else can contribute something constructive.

    Added after 16 [minutes]:

    but you are absolutely right there are many ambiguities many unanswered questions. if it were so simple, then on every roof, yard, garden, a windmill would have been spinning for a long time, even if only to power one light bulb, radyjko or, for example, a small fountain.
  • #38 19883062
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  • #39 19883499
    stachu_l
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    101pawel wrote:
    Not only is it not simple, but it is extremely complex.
    probably not so much, because the Dutch have been draining their polders for several hundred years and also contributed to the drainage of our Żuławy Wiślane - at least those who threw them out for "bad" faith. Windmills - grain mills are also commonly known.
    Just as we want to obtain maximum power, full optimization of materials for mass production, similarly to designing high-performance yachts or modern aircraft, you need many calculations, experiments and measurements in the wind tunnel.
    Only a friend wants a windmill with a power of about 2.5 kW (alternator 24V 100A) and not a 3MW wind turbine.
    People assemble light planes themselves in a shed, hall or hangar - see ULM.
    101pawel wrote:
    it remains to embrace aerodynamics, and in this specialty there is not only a lack of specialists (in Poland), but also of any experience.

    I understand that Mr. Czesław Marchaj (https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czes%C5%82aw_Marchaj) has no followers and the aviation faculties of the university do nothing, our gliders, planes and helicopters were created without aerodynamic knowledge or everyone forgot how it works.
    101pawel wrote:
    The electrics of the windmill is the simplest problem.

    Maybe this simpler problem, but I know a case from the 70's where a man made a windmill with a generator from Syrenka and charged the battery - a building in the forest without power from the mains. One fine day, a helicopter appeared over the cottage and then a car with an antenna for the radio station. The military visited you and told you to turn off the installation. There was a training ground nearby and some major exercises (visitations, generals) and the radio stations were crackling because the generator sparks on the commutator and has an electromechanical regulator and there was no filtration on it and the cables from the mast to the house acted as a transmitting antenna.
    Electrical problems must also be taken into account.
  • #40 19886743
    Anonymous
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  • #41 19887230
    stachu_l
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    101pawel wrote:
    but does anything come of it?
    It shows that it is possible to build a wind turbine producing useful amounts of electricity in amateur conditions. The owner of this version of the Mermaid powered the lighting from a charged battery.
    It seems to me that my colleague @michal_dniepr also has such an intention - to build his own wind turbine. Will he get 2kW from his windmill? I don't know, but if you manage to get 500W, it will be fine too.
    Rather, a propeller of 1000 rpm is not an option and such revolutions are not enough for the alternator, so you will need a gearbox anyway. There are many challenges but you can master it.
    Of course, the efficiency will be far from Vestas, but it does not pay for the wind, so it doesn't matter.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around building a wind power plant using an alternator, focusing on managing battery charging and excitation. Key considerations include preventing overcharging of the battery, ensuring proper excitation current, and the challenges of achieving sufficient revolutions for effective power generation. Participants suggest using a voltage regulator, diodes for current direction control, and experimenting with different alternator types, including those from washing machines and trucks. The conversation highlights the complexities of wind turbine design, including rotor blade efficiency, gear systems, and the potential for integrating solar energy as a simpler alternative. Concerns about low power output and the need for high RPMs are also discussed, along with practical advice on construction and component selection.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A rewound 45 A Bosch alternator begins charging at ~400 RPM and can push 150 W in 8 m/s wind [Elektroda, Kwazor, post #15064377] “Use neodymium magnets” [Elektroda, Kwazor, post #15064377] Putting a blocking diode between alternator and starter-battery stops back-drain [Elektroda, prose, post #15067106]

Why it matters: These quick tweaks let a low-cost alternator safely feed off-grid lighting or heaters without killing your battery.

Quick Facts

• Stock cut-in speed: 900–1200 RPM on most car alternators [Elektroda, bestboy21, post #15063795] • Rewind + magnets drops cut-in to ~400 RPM [Elektroda, Kwazor, post #15064377] • Excitation draw: Approx. 2 A at 12 V for 55 A alternator (Bosch Training Manual, 2010) • Schottky blocking diode loss: 0.35–0.5 V, 50–100 A parts cost ≈ €3 (Mouser catalog) • 300 W Chinese turbine retail: €220, but severe vibration reported after months [Elektroda, kasperek21, post #15785198]

How do I stop the alternator from over-charging or discharging my battery?

Keep the factory voltage regulator in circuit. Add a high-current blocking diode on the + line to the starter battery; it allows charge in but prevents reverse flow at night [Elektroda, prose, post #15067106] A fully charged 12 V lead-acid should float at 13.8 V, so set the regulator to that value (Bosch Training Manual, 2010).

What diode should I choose for a 12 V, 30 A wind system?

Use a 50 A Schottky stud diode or a ready-made three-phase alternator rectifier block. Forward drop is ~0.4 V, wasting about 12 W at 30 A—acceptable for small systems (Mouser catalog). Mount it on a heat-sink with thermal paste; overheating is the common failure edge-case.

How much excitation current is required and how can I supply it safely?

A 55 A alternator takes roughly 2 A at 12 V to build its field (Bosch Training Manual, 2010). Place a small 7–10 Ah AGM battery behind the blocking diode. It powers excitation, then recharges once the alternator is live—no deep discharge risk [Elektroda, prose, post #15067106]

Is it worth converting the rotor to permanent magnets?

Yes if you need low-wind start-up. Magnets cut idle losses and remove excitation draw, trimming ~24 W at 12 V. The trade-off is losing electronic voltage control; dump-load regulation becomes mandatory [Elektroda, MichałS, post #19827006]

How can I use surplus energy for water or space heating?

Add a PWM dump-load controller that monitors battery voltage. When it rises above 14.4 V, the controller diverts power to a 12 V, 1500 W heater element, as shown by a 2 kW fan owner [Elektroda, Edek45, post #15785261]

What cables and rectifiers are adequate for a 12 V tower line?

For 15 A continuous current, run 2×6 mm² copper to limit voltage drop below 3 %. Place the three-phase rectifier at the base to avoid climbing for maintenance and to reduce EMI that once jammed military radios [Elektroda, stachu_l, post #19883499]

What common failure modes hit low-cost turbines?

Cheap 300 W Chinese units developed mast-shaking “Parkinson’s” after months, forcing removal [Elektroda, kasperek21, post #15785198] Bearings seize, blades crack under gusts, and unbalanced rotors overheat alternators—budget for replacements within a year.

Can I run a vertical-axis turbine through a belt gearbox?

Yes, but account for 10–15 % belt losses and higher starting torque. A 1:2 ratio raises alternator speed but doubles shaft force. Ensure bearings handle the extra side-load [Elektroda, michal_dniepr, post #19833910]

Quick 3-step wiring: a dedicated excitation battery

  1. Wire alternator output to a high-current Schottky diode, anode toward alternator.
  2. Connect diode cathode to a small 12 V AGM battery; fuse at 20 A.
  3. From battery, feed regulator IGN terminal; add voltmeter for monitoring. The battery now excites, recharges, and never back-drains [Elektroda, prose, post #15067106]
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