Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

Question

According to Canon, this error means A printhead temperature sensor error has occurred. and you have to contact the Canon printer after the warranty, so the contact is rather out of the question because they will charge me like gold. Is it possible to somehow reset it, bypass this sensor? Is the...

Anonymous · Accepted Answer

I have no ideas anymore, I would just have to have the printer in front of me.

Anonymous · Answer

It should be possible to recover one of the component heads (PGBK or CL, but in which they will happen, it remains to be seen).

Prepare a universal multimeter, electrical tape + segment knife.
Perhaps you will need a diode (any, better smaller and does not have to be luminous) and a thin wire with insulation (e.g. from a damaged P-ATA cable in the 80-wire version).

t-naw · Answer

can I count on a short description of what to strive for?

t-naw · Answer

Will the printer print in color after recovering the above-mentioned heads?
I understand that the scissors and insulation are used to glue the pins in the print head one by one,
So I stick a pin or two three, if they are common, I turn on the printer and see if there is still an error only if all inks must be inserted when firing?

I only have replacement inks, one original PGBK, when I put the ink into the printer, all of them glow except BK, if I put another in BK, it starts to glow alw, there is a color conflict, if I put BK in place of another, it also shines.

I can't figure out what the cable and diode are for yet.

Anonymous · Answer

Start by removing the inks and printhead from the printer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nb2g5-4uCu8
Then turn off the printer.

Since at least one of the inks may give an additional error, you need to enter the service mode to check the print head (without the need to install inks).

It is enough to enter the service mode, there is no need to use the service program. The entry procedure is like here:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2858927.html#13768937

Check that the head contacts are clean; also check the contacts in the carriage for traces of spilled ink (wipe with a dry cloth).

Check out this sticker:
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

Possible outcomes:
A) 4 blinks of the "alarm" diode -> error 1403 has disappeared (there will be testing of a smaller cut-out)
B) 5 blinks of the "alarm" LED -> error 1403 is still (it will search for a short circuit with a multimeter)
C) if the result is not A) or B) describe it.

t-naw · Answer

Unfortunately, there are still 5 flashes I pierced this cutout with a multimeter, the short circuits are on the pins that I marked

Anonymous · Answer

The small ones do not know what they are for, they have no equivalents in the carriage connector.

You are a bit ahead of me, I already had this drawn:
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

And here you need to check the electrical resistance (range 20 k?

:
1. A B more than 1 k? (in good working order I have 3.5 k? at pol A: black B: red and out of range when inverted)
2. A C ~ 7 k? with polarity A: black B: red and out of range with reverse
3. A D like 2.

Ad. 1. As less than 1 k? is a 3.3V short circuit, it may even be in EEPROM.
Ad. 2 and 3 readings Significantly higher than 7 k? for the first polarity (or significantly different between pairs 2 and 3) is a blown diode. Small values are a short circuit.

t-naw · Answer

I'm out of scope everywhere
when measuring at a higher range, the matter looks like this:

AB> 96 Kohm both ways
AC> ~ 0.96 Mohm one way
AD> 16.5 Mohm one way

I forgot to add that I turned the probes away from the meter
When measuring to point A, I had a red probe applied to it.
ie AC and AD are behind the value for A- red probe black for A- red probe results as above.

t-naw · Answer

I have one more question
Will the printer work with a second working head, I found a used one for good money. Can the second head also be damaged, because I read somewhere that these printers like to burn even new heads.

Anonymous · Answer

At first glance, this discrepancy in the results suggests a failure of the temperature measurement for the color (box "D"). It's easy to check. It is enough to cover the "C" frame with insulating tape and insert the print head into the printer. If "D" is burned out, it will be "no printhead" - "Error 1401".

By the way, you can check the other way - seal the frame "D" and leave open "C" - then it should be "Error 1403".

So the color component head probably fell. The temperature sensor (and in fact short circuits) fails if there is a breakdown from the HV (24V) line, which someone tried to "heal" with advice from the Russian Internet ("moving the ambulance" etc.).

As for the new head, the used ones may have faults (and they usually are).
The new head can be removed from the brand new MG5650. You pay as much as for the head in bulk, and the printer and inks are free (both can be sold). With the reset of the pampers counter in the MG5650, you will find it difficult to buy a printer (or the motherboard itself).

If you want to reduce the chance of damaging the head during installation in an old printer, use the # 5 contact sealing scheme (https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3118958.html#15171233).
The head will draw the ink, but the nozzles will not emit heat - it will not overheat. Before removing the mask from the contacts, you can make an imprint of the nozzles on a several times folded, slightly damp paper towel. You will then be able to see whether ink has reached the nozzles.

t-naw · Answer

so this head is only suitable for a garbage can?

Anonymous · Answer

Not exactly. PGBK has a chance to work - someone may be interested in it.
If you confirm that the temperature sensor for the color head has fallen, the diode will be soldered and the HV contacts will mask the breakdown.
I repaired the QY6-0080 head, but it was the other way around - the PGBK had a damaged temperature sensor. Color prints flawlessly.

t-naw · Answer

can I get a hint or a picture about these frames?
My first printer that I mess with :)

As for the head, I am bidding one on ebay at the moment, the price is 5 pounds 3 days to the end, supposedly cleaned and working, if it does not work, I will make a refund and after the problem

Anonymous · Answer

I mean checking such a mask:

The error code should change from 1403 to 1401 (no printhead installed). This will confirm the type of fault and open the possibility of soldering the diode to the old head.

One more thing. If it turned out that the error code 1403 is still with the next head, let me know. There may be one more problem, this time on the printer side.

t-naw · Answer

with this endless paper on 1403 With that in mind, I took the head out completely and I still have 1403

Anonymous · Answer

I took it on my chest and assembled the iP7250, which had been aging in a highly fragmented state on furniture for several months.

Let me put it briefly: it's bad.
The missing head should look like this:
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

If this condition persists, installing a new head may not help.
If possible, check two things.
1. Is the carriage-to-print connector (in the printer) clean, or is it not floating in the ink?
2. Enter the service mode (even without the program), if it is possible at all. This is the same as the iP4950. Here it is pictorially shown:
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2858927.html#13768937

It may turn out that it is impossible to enter the service mode - this is the norm if there is a more serious error. If successful, check the EEPROM log with the Service Tool 3400 ("EEPROM Save" button).

If the error persists then ... you will solder the diode anyway

t-naw · Answer

The printer enters the service mode without any problems
I have already cleaned the ambulance a few times so it should be ok.

here eeprom without head

iP7200    SN=ACXF00180 EUR V1.070 ST=2013/08/05-17:00 LPT=2015/10/05-18:55

D=020.0  Ps=000.0

DF=00004

ER(ER0=1660 ER1=1403 ER2=1660 ER3=1403 ER4=1660

   ER5=1403 ER6=1660 ER7=1403 ER8=1660 ER9=1403)

PC(M=000 R=000 T=052 D=000 C=006 I=006)

TPAGE(TTL=02365)

CH=001

CT_STD(PBK=003 BK=004 Y=004 M=005 C=004)

CT_MIN(PBK=001 BK=002 Y=001 M=001 C=001)

IL(PBK=0 BK=0 Y=0 M=0 C=0)

P_ON(S=00365)

A_REG=1 M_REG=0

IF(USB2=1)

FR PAGE1(All=00000 Photo1=00000 Photo2=00000 Photo3=00000

         Matto=00000 PC=00000)

FR PAGE2(All=00799 PP=00798 Photo1=00000 Photo2=00000 Photo3=00000

         Matto=00001 EV=00000)

EDGE=00007 L=00000 4x6+KG=00000

CDR=01566 CDRP=(-0139, -0062) CDRS=(0170)

LF=*  EJ=*

INK_OFF(PBK=0 BK=0 Y=0 M=0 C=0)

INK CLR=00

EROM CLR=00

WL-LAN=(MAC:)

LP_WL=01783

FER(FER0=0000 FER1=0000 FER2=0000 FER3=0000)

CER(CER0=0000 CER1=0000)

and with the head

iP7200    SN=ACXF00180 EUR V1.070 ST=2013/08/05-17:00 LPT=2015/10/05-18:55

D=020.0  Ps=000.0

DF=00004

ER(ER0=1660 ER1=1403 ER2=1660 ER3=1403 ER4=1660

   ER5=1403 ER6=1660 ER7=1403 ER8=1660 ER9=1403)

PC(M=000 R=000 T=052 D=000 C=006 I=006)

TPAGE(TTL=02365)

CH=001

CT_STD(PBK=003 BK=004 Y=004 M=005 C=004)

CT_MIN(PBK=001 BK=002 Y=001 M=001 C=001)

IL(PBK=5 BK=5 Y=5 M=5 C=5)

P_ON(S=00365)

A_REG=1 M_REG=0

IF(USB2=1)

FR PAGE1(All=00000 Photo1=00000 Photo2=00000 Photo3=00000

         Matto=00000 PC=00000)

FR PAGE2(All=00799 PP=00798 Photo1=00000 Photo2=00000 Photo3=00000

         Matto=00001 EV=00000)

EDGE=00007 L=00000 4x6+KG=00000

CDR=01566 CDRP=(-0139, -0062) CDRS=(0170)

LF=*  EJ=*

INK_OFF(PBK=0 BK=0 Y=0 M=0 C=0)

INK CLR=00

EROM CLR=00

WL-LAN=(MAC:18:0C:AC:37:CE:FA)

LP_WL=01783

FER(FER0=0000 FER1=0000 FER2=0000 FER3=0000)

CER(CER0=0000 CER1=0000)

Anonymous · Answer

OK, I had the same on the MG5250.
Same error log structure. She did not want to accept any head (working - that there was no doubt). It helped to insert the head-blower with soldered LEDs and the cut-off component with nozzles. After this treatment, the printer adopted a working printhead.

In this head you have now, it should be enough to solder one diode, so you don't need to cut off the nozzle plate (PGBK component head should work).

Just in case, you will need to cut off the temperature measurement lead from the rest of the circuits. This is done by cutting off a miniature "eye" through which the contact has a transition to the other side of the green plate:

The cut should be wide, i.e. at least 1/4 of the mesh diameter (you can gently scrape the whole eyelet if someone can).
The exposed area must be covered with a small amount of contact adhesive.
You have to be careful not to make a short circuit with the adjacent contacts and not to damage the adjacent contacts - without them the head will not be detected.

You will have to choose the place where the cathode exit, which is wherever there is a shield (ground). It is enough to gently scrape off the green mask and it will be ok.

It is good to degrease the contact plate with IPA and smear the soldered joint and the cathode site with a rosin solution dissolved in IPA (very little - 1 drop is enough, a rosin crumb dissolved in a trace amount of IPA).
Then, a small piece of tin is soldered to these places.

The quasi-scheme looks like this:

(the cathode is attached to the screen in the first convenient place)

The diode has to be hidden somewhere in the body of the head, a good place is in the corner at the top (the less chance of splashing with ink, the better). Then soldering the wires (the ends must be treated with a rosin solution and tinned). Wipe the contacts with IPA (it will remove residual rosin). You can cover the niche with the diode with a piece of electrical tape.

And very important - it is necessary to mask the contacts in accordance with the diagram provided earlier:
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

In another head it looks like this:

It is a complete egg shell, you can see that it has a cut ribbon with nozzles. You can't see it, but it doesn't even have an EEPROM cube.

t-naw · Answer

I did as commanded, on 1403 I am starting to come to the conclusion that it is a shit and it is a pity to do so

t-naw · Answer

Today the second head came, I put it in and I still have 1403, is it not an error on the printer side? Can he try to make a shell like in the picture above with two LEDs?

Anonymous · Answer

Of course, this is an error on the printer side and it was already clear when after removing the head the error 1403 was still displayed (the head is there, but it is faulty) and not the error 1401 (the head is missing).

Maybe show a photo of the head connector with a soldered diode - maybe something is not right.

The previous diode has an anode in the "C" frame, the cathode is grounded.
The connector of the second temperature sensor is the "D" frame, there should be the anode of the diode.
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

Cathode to ground / shield of the head plate.

But it's better to show the photo, or at least walk through the previous diode, is there a transition from the cathode to the ground contacts (frame "B" in the photo above).

t-naw · Answer

The quality of the photo is a bit shaky but I do not have a better camera at hand, you can still see how it is made.

There is a transition to ground, the diode is operational.

So going further, solder the second diode to the C frame?
Cut the tape and desolder the eeprom?

Anonymous · Answer

It turned out nice.
Yes, solder the second diode to the "C" frame.

t-naw wrote:
Cut the tape and desolder the eeprom?

EEPROM desoldering will do nothing, there is no short circuit between "A" and "B" frames.
It was just that the blown cup was made of the head, where the EEPROM had a short circuit and it had to be removed, and some interesting use was found for the contact plate.

t-naw · Answer

or to cut off the transition to the other side at the C frame?

Anonymous · Answer

Yes - you are actually fighting for the printer's motherboard, not for the printhead.

t-naw · Answer

I added a second diode and then 1403

t-naw · Answer

shipping it from uk is overkill

I'm not going to have any fun just a little more. I'll cut this tape off.
I will unscrew the head and I will leak, maybe I have badly cut off passages, if something interesting is born, I will let you know.
Thank you very much for your help and your time

Anonymous · Answer

There is still such a measurement, but it will not repair anything, it only allows you to find out about the damage.

This is the carriage connector with the pin counterparts previously marked on the head connector.
Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

I set the multimeter (UNI-T UT33C) to the 20k? range and made comparative measurements for both DIA sensors ("C" and "D" frames).

	Red Black (com)	Black (com) Red
"C" "A" "D" "A"	1 1	11.74 11.74
"C" "B" "D" "B"	1 1	7.00 7.01

In an efficient printer, the measurement results for two independent channels of the temperature sensor are practically identical.
If you use a different model of the meter and range, you can detect damage on the motherboard side in a situation where the results would be significantly different (even a few%).
The "C" and "D" contacts are connected to the CPU (the biggest chip), so you can forget about the repair.

t-naw · Answer

the results vary significantly CA both ways 3.35 DA in both directions outside the range CB 4.3 ohm both ways D (red) -B outside the range both ways

Canon Pixma IP7250 - Error 1403: Printhead Temperature Sensor Error, Reset or Bypass Solutions

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