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Controlling Temperature in ZEBIEC S1WK10 Furnace: Managing Overheating and Water Pump Setup

legro 53523 38
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How can I stop a Zębiec S1WK10 solid-fuel boiler from overheating and control it around 70°C without dumping hot water to drain?

You cannot regulate this boiler like a gas or oil unit; the normal way is to control combustion air and fuel charge, not to dump hot water into the sewer. A chain/draft regulator that slowly closes the lower flap as temperature rises is the standard solution, and if the boiler is tight it is usually enough; if the chimney draft is excessive, a chimney draft regulator can help, but do not choke the outlet almost completely because of smoke/backdraft risk [#15181662][#15186092][#15186175] With this kind of solid-fuel boiler you should burn from the top, light with paper and wood, then add only a small coal charge and leave the lower flap only partly open so the boiler stabilizes instead of racing to 80–90°C [#15180930][#15182322] If the house is already too warm at 70°C, the boiler is simply too powerful for the current heat demand, so reduce the coal load and use the boiler’s normal operating range of roughly 60–80°C rather than trying to run it at 40°C [#15181545][#15182322] Do not rely on radiator valves as the main control method with a solid-fuel boiler; keep radiators open and only do one-time balancing at the valve caps if needed [#15181118] If you want emergency boil-over protection, a boiler cooling coil/thermal safety valve is the proper safety add-on, but it is not a substitute for correct firing and system safety components [#15182794]
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  • #31 15186348
    Nicedog
    Level 23  
    Phaeton wrote:
    It is coarsely regulated in a wider range and more precisely with the flap on the door. This is the basic issue if we want to heat the house, not the surrounding area.
    Absolutely right! This is what the manufacturer assembles this flap for - and it should be used PROPERLY. :) We have been doing this every day for many years.
    In this thread, I have already given a broader explanation in this forum > https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3117704-30.html, in my post No. 48 and 53 .

    Ptak3124 wrote:
    And what happens when an inexperienced smoker ignites the boiler in windy weather, when the chimney draft is extremely strong?
    Use the chimney flap to regulate the draft and cover the outlet almost completely.
    There may be an inexperienced smoker, but let him be a rational, thinking person. which will NOT "obstruct the outlet almost completely". Anyway, even with the strongest wind (when there is the highest draft in the chimney) it is simply impossible to almost completely cover the chimney outlet, because you can hear that the stove stops "working" and smoke appears in the boiler room.
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  • #32 15187275
    DJ ANNUS
    Level 31  
    My friend, I also have a stove and when the door is closed, the stove goes out, and if it does not go out, you have a leak and you need to find it.
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  • #33 15187682
    Nicedog
    Level 23  
    DJ ANNUS wrote:
    My friend, I also have a stove and when the door is closed, the stove goes out, and if it does not go out, you have a leak and you need to find it.
    I do not know to whom my colleague addressed this instruction. If to me - it is very wrong, because the design of the furnace is and can be different.
    In my case, when the door is closed, the stove absolutely does not go out - and it cannot go out, because two side walls have holes made, which additionally supply air to the combustion chamber. This furnace has a certificate of entry into service, and it was made by a craft company according to a proven pattern (patent) of a boiler designed and manufactured in Austria.
  • #34 15187703
    DJ ANNUS
    Level 31  
    Nicedog it wasn't up to you, just the author.

    Second, what holes do you have there in this tooth?
    Normally there aren't any holes there at least for me.
  • #35 15187807
    Nicedog
    Level 23  
    DJ ANNUS wrote:
    Secondly, what holes do you have there in this tooth?
    Normally there aren't any holes there, at least for me.
    These are holes about 20 mm in diameter, at a height of about 50 cm - made in the side walls of the boiler, on its two sides. They are located at the end of the hearth towards the chimney.
    Their task is to supply additional air so that the remnants of unburned gases released from the fuel (i.e. coal, wood, fine dust) can be economically burned up before their discharge into the chimney.
    Our central heating boiler is a universal wheel, i.e. you can burn anything you want (even I had) in it. Thus, such holes (some call them "smoke tubes") are very useful when an explosive combustion occurs unexpectedly in the furnace (eg when sawdust is thrown in or when it is about to start to gasify too much). Then the excess pressure created in the furnace is discharged through these openings, and thus, among others, the chimney hates.

    Once, when we had a furnace without these holes - this pressure resulting from occasional burning, too fine sawdust led to a harmless crack in the chimney in its lower part (about 1m long).
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  • #36 15201139
    Ekspert_Zębiec
    Level 2  
    legro wrote:
    Dear forum users. A few days ago I bought a house with a very simple stove - ZEBIEC S1WK10. From the furnace, hot water goes to the pump (there is also a bypass) and then goes to the distributor. The pump is connected to the controller and turns on at a temperature of 35 degrees. Water is pulled from the manifold to the whole house in a pex 15 tube. My problem is the inability to control the temperature. Yesterday late in the evening (around 24.00) (and this was also the case the day before yesterday and the day before) before going to bed, I went down to the boiler room, the temperature on the stove was 43 degrees, I threw 2 scoops, small, maybe more like a spade, my shovel looks like, I closed I bake "deaf" and went to sleep. After an hour at home, there was nothing to breathe, 89 degrees on the stove! The fact was that the water was not boiling but it was close. I have a boiler that I will connect (at the moment it is installed only with an electric heater). My idea, if I am wrong, is to install SOMETHING which, at a maximum temperature of 70 degrees Celsius, would open the valve and hot water would flow from the boiler to the sewage system, the boiler would fill with cold water, thus cooling the system. The question of how to do the aforementioned SOMETHING? Maybe there is some other way to cool it down. Help me please because the situation is very unpleasant. I will only mention that at 1 am the temperature was 89 degrees and in the morning at 7 am it was only 23 degrees - all the coal was burnt. If I wanted it to be warm in the morning, I would have to throw in 4 scoops, which would undoubtedly make me "mexico" out of my pex tubes. I would like to be able to "slow down" the temperature at around 70 degrees Celsius because the house has very good thermal insulation and at 70 there is already a sauna ...

    Thank you very much for taking the time to read and help if necessary.

    Regards


    Technical advisors from the manufacturer of the S1WK10 boiler are here to help. :) It is best to talk to us by phone to quickly receive answers to all questions - both those that have already arisen and those that will arise during the conversation. Because there are always more questions. :) Therefore, please contact us at the 24-hour helpline: 41 27 67 460. We are happy to provide all possible support. We join heartfelt greetings!

    PS And congratulations on your new home! :)
  • #37 15201151
    DJ ANNUS
    Level 31  
    This buddy Zębiec, because of your experience, write how to limit the heating power of the stove.

    Of course, I mean 24-hour smoking with the temperature set with a draft regulator, e.g. 40'C.
    Cover the stove with coal or hard fuel wood.
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  • #38 15201404
    Nicedog
    Level 23  
    DJ ANNUS wrote:
    smoking with the temperature set with a draft regulator, e.g. 40'C.
    Maintaining the temperature "e.g. 40'C", i.e. well below 60'C - is extremely deadly for the boiler due to the formation of low-temperature corrosion in it (I already wrote about it, also in # 39 and # 45 here> http : //www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3117704-30.html)
    At a temperature of ~ 40 degrees C, we have the so-called dew point for sulfuric acid, which is worth reading here> http://czysteogrzał.pl/technika/korozja-kotla-weglowego-jak-hyszne-inkwizycja/.
  • #39 15202884
    Grzegorz Siemienowicz
    Level 36  
    DJ ANNUS wrote:
    This buddy Zębiec, because of your experience, write how to limit the heating power of the stove.

    Of course, I mean 24-hour smoking with the temperature set with a draft regulator, e.g. 40'C.


    And what has the power to the temperature of the medium in the boiler?
    Maybe some pattern?

    From my friend Expert_Zębiec I would be glad to know why his company does not follow the guidelines nice dog ? After all, this is a commandment and soon, with such knowledge of consumers, boilers without bricks will not sell. :D
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around managing temperature control in the ZEBIEC S1WK10 furnace, particularly addressing issues of overheating and the setup of the water pump. The user reports difficulties in regulating the furnace temperature, which often exceeds 70 degrees Celsius, leading to discomfort in the home. Various solutions are proposed, including the installation of a draft regulator to control air intake, the use of a thermal safety valve to prevent overheating, and adjustments to the coal loading technique. Participants emphasize the importance of understanding the furnace's operation, suggesting that the user may need to adapt their coal usage and consider alternative heating systems if the current setup proves inadequate. The conversation also touches on the potential for redesigning the heating system to improve efficiency and comfort.
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FAQ

TL;DR: The 10 kW Zębiec S1WK10’s 35 L fuel chamber can push water from 43 °C to 89 °C in under 60 minutes [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15180930]; “You have to ‘feel’ it” [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15180930] Fit a PLN 100 string draft regulator, seal every door joint, and keep flow above 60 °C to prevent acidic corrosion. Why it matters: Small solid-fuel boilers overheat fast, risking scalding floors, burst pipes, and warped heat-exchangers.

Quick Facts

• Nominal output: 10 kW, fuel chamber 35 L [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15180930] • Recommended water temperature band: 60–80 °C to avoid low-temp corrosion [Viessmann, 2020] • String (bi-metal) draft regulator: PLN 90–110 installed [Elektroda, płetwa, post #15180984] • Factory-set cooling coil valve: opens 95 °C, flow 10 L min⁻¹ [Caleffi, 2018] • Buffer tank sizing rule: ≥40 L per kW (≈400 L for 10 kW) [Heating Pocketbook]

1. Why does my S1WK10 overheat even with all doors closed?

Hidden air leaks let the fuel get oxygen. A strong chimney draft then drives combustion, sending water to 90 °C even with flaps shut [Elektroda, legro, post #15180983]

2. How can a string draft regulator solve this?

The bi-metal actuator closes the lower-door flap as water nears a setpoint (e.g., 70 °C), starving the fire and holding temperature within ±3 °C [Elektroda, płetwa, post #15181662]

3. What’s the first diagnostic step?

Check door gaskets with a thin paper strip. If paper pulls out easily, replace 8 mm glass-fibre rope and cement; leaks larger than 1 mm double burn rate [HETAS Guide].

4. Should I dump 70 °C water to the drain for safety?

No. It wastes energy and shocks the heat-exchanger. Use a certified cooling coil that opens at 95 °C instead [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15182794]

5. What exactly is a cooling coil?

A copper coil inside the jacket. A wax thermostat opens a valve at 95 °C, letting mains water flow through the coil and absorb about 150 kW-min before shutting [Caleffi, 2018].

7. How low can I run the boiler without damage?

Stay above 55 °C. Below this, acidic condensate forms and can pit 4 mm steel in one season [Viessmann, 2020].

8. What is the recommended firing technique?

Top-light method: 1. Load 7 kg coal. 2. Ignite kindling on top. 3. Leave flap fully open until 65 °C, then throttle to maintain 70 °C [Elektroda, gersik, post #15182302]

9. How do I spot excessive chimney draft?

If a sheet of A4 held at the ash door is sucked flat instantly, draft exceeds 20 Pa. Install a barometric draft regulator at the flue collar [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15186092]

10. Is adding a 4-way mixing valve worthwhile?

Yes. A 4-D valve mixes return water, holding boiler above 60 °C while sending cooler water to radiators, giving ±1 °C room stability [Elektroda, gersik, post #15182302]

11. What about a buffer tank?

A 400 L tank stores ~18 kWh—enough to absorb an overnight load without overheating. Payback is 3–4 winters through coal savings [Heating Pocketbook].

12. Edge case: what happens if power fails and the pump stops?

With no gravity bypass, water can boil within 15 minutes. Fit 28 mm open-vent safety pipe plus a passive thermosiphon loop [Elektroda, Ptak3124, post #15181545]

13. 3-step night-time stability routine

  1. Run boiler to 70 °C at 22:00. 2. Load only 25 % chamber (≈7 kg coal). 3. Set draft regulator to 65 °C and fully open all radiators. Users report 22 °C rooms and 45 °C boiler at 07:00 [Elektroda, legro, post #15182145]
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