logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Advanced Search
logo elektroda

Control Gas Furnace Room Temperature with Wired Devices and Thermometers

KlonAdam 7149 12
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
Report a violation of the law
| New topic
  • #1 16811079
    KlonAdam
    Level 12  
    Posts: 60
    Help: 2
    Rate: 17
    Hello,

    My own thoughts regarding the control of the gas stove came up with an interesting idea but I can not find such a system. Namely:

    In each room I have a head mounted on the radiator which is coupled with a thermometer on the wall. After reaching the set temperature, the thermometer closes the head and sends a signal to the furnace controller. Let's give it 3 rooms, each with a heads and a thermometer. Each user sets an individual temperature. However, let's say that in two rooms the temperature is set and the valves are closed and in one the thermometer requires heating from the gas furnace and such information is transmitted to the controller and later to the furnace - only one room is heated.

    In sum:

    I need devices and communication system between the head and the thermometer, thermometers and the controller. I want to do everything wired.

    Thank you in advance for your help.

    Control Gas Furnace Room Temperature with Wired Devices and Thermometers
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 16811094
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist  
    Posts: 7883
    Help: 851
    Rate: 2584
    You haven't discovered America :)
    This is done very often.
    You install a room controller in each room
    https://www.google.pl/search?q=sterownik+poko...BgbHXAhVCDewKHe_bBSoQ_AUICigB&biw=981&bih=521
    that controls the thermal actuator
    https://www.google.pl/search?biw=981&bih=521&...k1j0i24k1l7.34148.40335.0.41368.18.18.0.0.0.0 .205.1555.15j1j1.17.0 .... 0 ... ... 1.1.64.psy-ab..1.17.1553 0i67k1j0i8i30k1.0.OxPy_siQQh8
    mounted on the valve in the control cabinet through the so-called control bar
    https://www.google.pl/search?biw=981&bih=521&...l3j0i24k1l3.89082.92370.0.93583.16.16.0.0.0.0 .199.1327.14j1.15.0 .... 0 ... ... 1.1.64.psy-ab..1.15.1323 0i67k1j0i30k1j0i8i30k1j0i10i24k1.0.nFp0elnVzjY
    http://www.ekoszok.pl/listwa_centralna_sterujaca_ogrzewanie_podlogowe

    The boiler control contact is also connected to this strip.
    When any room controller requests heating, the strip closes this contact and the boiler starts to heat.

    This is a very standard solution.
    The system can be wired, but wireless systems are also available
    https://www.google.pl/search?q=listwa+bezprze...rhLHXAhWE_aQKHSycAp4Q_AUICigB&biw=981&bih=521
    http://e-sterowniki.pl/szafka-z-rozdzielaczem...jaca-ogrzewaniem-podlogowym-rfskpl-p-108.html
    You mount the strip in the control cabinet. You mount valves on the manifold beam together with thermal actuators, which you connect to the strip. Battery-powered room controllers connect wirelessly to the strip. Even if needed, the boiler can also be controlled wirelessly.
    All you have to do is pull the 230V power cord to the distributor box.
    Despite the fact that they write "underfloor heating strip" in the name, it doesn't matter if the circuits power the floor or radiators.
  • #3 16811389
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1084
    KlonAdam wrote:
    Let's give it 3 rooms, each with a heads and a thermometer. Each user sets an individual temperature. However, let's say that in two rooms the temperature is set and the valves are closed and in one the thermometer requires heating from the gas furnace and such information is transmitted to the controller and later to the furnace - only one room is heated.

    Only I see a small "but", because with such a small object as the mentioned 3 rooms, where at a time 2 are cut off and only one is to be heated, there remains the problem of the ratio of boiler power to radiator power.
    Double-function condensing boilers with the lowest power modulate from approx. 3.5 kW for 50/30 temperature, and the C22 heater 60 cm high and 100 cm long at 50/30 offers only approx. 0.5 kW.
    As a result, the water on the boiler will quickly reach the set upper water temperature threshold and the boiler will turn off despite the fact that the controller can still give a HEATER signal, so in practice the heating will be slightly different than it follows from theoretical assumptions. Only practice will show if reality will meet your needs.
    Therefore, in my opinion, it would be better to adjust the radiators in such a way that all rooms warm up at approximately the same time, i.e. you should avoid a situation in which the boiler must heat only for 1 small radiator.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #4 16811403
    Ryszard49
    Level 39  
    Posts: 6182
    Help: 312
    Rate: 1001
    BUCKS I have an electric boiler and it doesn't matter if only one radiator is on or several. The boiler works so that the set temperature in a given room is consistent with the programmed one.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #5 16811407
    KlonAdam
    Level 12  
    Posts: 60
    Help: 2
    Rate: 17
    Thank you for your response. This is just an example - 3 rooms. In general, the house will have 122m2. One question remains for me, is it better to mount these regulators on radiators or to bring everything to the distributor and create control there? I plan to give radiators everywhere, I do not want to play in the floor. Generally calculated. 11 heaters (smaller or larger) should be mounted on the manifold an additional pump, is the gas stove enough?
  • #6 16811544
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1084
    Ryszard49 wrote:
    BUCKS I have an electric boiler

    With an electric boiler, whether it will turn on for 1 minute every 3 minutes does not make such a difference as with a condensing gas boiler, which has so-called blow.
    Anyway, the thread is about gas.

    KlonAdam wrote:
    In general, the house will have 122m2. [...] 11 heaters [...]

    It is easy, then the overall balance looks different.
    Although if you know in advance that in a given room you plan for higher temperatures, in my opinion it is worth using larger heaters to maintain more or less equal proportions.
    Your other questions are beyond my knowledge and experience, but Plumpi, for example, will be able to give you specific advice.
  • #7 18949591
    kiemon2
    Level 9  
    Posts: 22
    Rate: 1
    Hello. Or to the control that you discussed. Ie. The main panel is connected to the strip and additional regulators are connected to the strip. And the bar itself is connected to the stove. The question is whether it is worth pulling the internet on the cable to the stove?
  • #8 18949666
    Ryszard49
    Level 39  
    Posts: 6182
    Help: 312
    Rate: 1001
    BUCKS , I had LPG heating and fuel oil and I must admit that I could only get full control on the electric stove.
  • #9 18950066
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    Ie turning the river stick # 1.
    A good weekly room regulator (smaller, here is the transmission) and thermostatic valves on all radiators (or those in the room with the regulator) do the same.
    Yes, you can also do miracles.
  • #10 18950122
    Ryszard49
    Level 39  
    Posts: 6182
    Help: 312
    Rate: 1001
    ROWE , of course, weekly but in every room.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #11 18950150
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    Then thermostatic valves will be practically unnecessary, unless the rooms are painful.
  • #12 18950467
    BUCKS
    Level 39  
    Posts: 3820
    Help: 536
    Rate: 1084
    kiemon2 wrote:
    The question is whether it is worth pulling the internet on the cable to the stove?

    Since the tabernacle, the head does not hurt.
    Sometimes there are controllers that connect to the Internet, which, for example, collect data on the outside temperature so that you do not have to install an external temperature sensor, etc.
    In a new home, LAN is a duty for me, so then I would even pull the LAN cable to the refrigerator, because there are refrigerators that have a net connection ;)

    PS By the way, the topic from 3 years ago was unearthed, and the discussion started as if it were fresh.
  • #13 18950507
    ROWE
    Level 34  
    Posts: 1987
    Help: 239
    Rate: 529
    In fact, it should be closed.
| New topic
Report a violation of the law

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around controlling the temperature of a gas furnace using wired devices, specifically through the integration of thermostats and thermal actuators mounted on radiators. The user proposes a system where each room has a thermometer that communicates with a central furnace controller, allowing individual temperature settings for each room. Responses highlight existing solutions, such as room controllers and thermal actuators, and emphasize the importance of balancing boiler and radiator capacities to ensure efficient heating. Suggestions include using a central control panel connected to a distribution strip, and considerations for whether to install internet connectivity for enhanced control. The conversation also touches on the effectiveness of electric versus gas heating systems and the potential need for larger radiators to maintain consistent heating across multiple rooms.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: In multi‑room setups, a condensing boiler’s minimum ~3.5 kW can dwarf a single radiator’s ~0.5 kW; “the boiler will turn off” if zones are too small. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16811389] Why it matters: This FAQ shows how to wire room thermostats, actuators, and a boiler contact so each room heats on demand without waste, and how to avoid short‑cycling. It’s for homeowners planning wired multi‑zone radiator control.

Quick Facts

What’s the simplest wired way to give each room its own temperature?

Use a room controller in each room, cable them to a control strip, and fit thermal actuators on the valves. The strip combines calls and closes the boiler’s demand contact when any room needs heat. This is a very standard solution and scales cleanly. [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16811094]

Will my gas boiler short‑cycle if only one radiator calls for heat?

Yes, if boiler minimum output exceeds the active radiator capacity. Example: ~3.5 kW boiler minimum at 50/30 versus ~0.5 kW radiator. The boiler quickly hits the upper temperature and shuts off despite demand. That cycling reduces comfort and efficiency. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16811389]

Should I mount actuators on radiators or use a manifold and control strip?

Centralizing at a distributor with a control strip is tidy and common. Mount valves and thermal actuators on the manifold beams, wire them to the strip, and wire the strip to the boiler contact. The same approach works for radiator circuits, not only floors. [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16811094]

Do I still need thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) if every room has a weekly controller?

If each room has its own programmable room controller managing the actuator, TRVs add little value. In that case, TRVs become practically unnecessary unless you want extra local limiting or special rooms. [Elektroda, ROWE, post #18950150]

Can I mix wired controls with wireless room sensors?

Yes. Many systems support wireless room controllers that link to a central strip. The strip still drives wired thermal actuators and the boiler contact. You only need to provide 230 V power at the distributor box. [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16811094]

Is it worth running Ethernet to the boiler or control panel?

Yes. Some controllers use the Internet to fetch outdoor temperature or cloud features without an external sensor. In new builds, run LAN to major appliances and panels to keep options open for smarter control. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #18950467]

Do electric boilers behave better with many small zones?

Electric boilers handle single‑radiator operation without the gas burner’s start‑stop and purge behavior. Set room temperature and the electric unit tracks it closely. This reduces short‑cycling worries compared with condensing gas boilers. [Elektroda, Ryszard49, post #16811403]

What’s a budget alternative to multi‑zone strips and actuators?

Use one good weekly room regulator as the master and fit thermostatic valves on radiators. This simpler approach can mimic zoning for many homes. You can add more sophistication later if needed. [Elektroda, ROWE, post #18950066]

How do I wire and commission a basic multi‑room control?

  1. Install a control strip in the cabinet and bring 230 V supply.
  2. Mount thermal actuators on manifold or radiator valves; wire each zone to the strip.
  3. Wire the strip’s boiler contact to the boiler; add room controllers and test calls. “This is done very often.” [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16811094]

Can “underfloor heating” wireless strips drive radiators too?

Yes. Despite the name, those strips just switch thermal actuators and the boiler contact. They work the same whether circuits feed floors or radiators. Choose actuators and valves that match your radiator manifold. [Elektroda, Plumpi, post #16811094]

How do I keep rooms warming at the same time?

Size radiators so rooms with higher setpoints have proportionally larger emitters. Balanced capacity avoids one tiny zone driving the boiler alone, which degrades comfort and control. Aim for similar warm‑up times across rooms. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16811544]

What failure modes should I watch for with a single small active zone?

If only one small radiator calls, the boiler can reach its upper limit temperature quickly and shut off repeatedly. That cycling causes uneven heat and wear. Balance zones or keep minimum simultaneous load above boiler minimum. [Elektroda, BUCKS, post #16811389]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT