Poxipol Adhesive Fails on Metal Bathroom Paper Holder: Possible Solutions & Alternatives

Question

My metal element broke - the bathroom paper holder (see photos) I decided to stick it together. I used Poxipol 2-component adhesive and after gluing I squeezed the so-called bookbinding clamp. After some time - it fell apart again. I decided to change the gluing surface: I drilled 3 holes in one...

siewcu · Answer

Poxipol does not stick everything, you need to find an adhesive that is suitable for the material you want to glue.

mariuszp19 · Answer

Firstly, it is just like the sower's colleague wrote earlier, and secondly, the glued surfaces should be properly prepared before gluing (roughening, cleaning, degreasing, using an appropriate activator).

km500 · Answer

From the description of Poxipol:

.... Can be used on metal, ceramics, glass, cement, fiber cement, various types of plastic materials, etc ...
... Materials that can be glued with POXIPOL: metals (ferrous and non-ferrous), glass, ceramics, brick, concrete, wood, eternite....

From the product description - it appears that it is stainless steel

http://www.homebook.pl/produkty/4879114/dla-d...we-akoszenia-do-toalety-podajniki-papieru-uch useful-na-papier-toaletowy-stal-nierdzewna-tiger- boston-3091-09

As you can see in the photos, I did sanding and brushing, and rubbed it with a solvent ...
I did not use the activator....

telecaster1951 · Answer

But here the weld cracks, not peels off the surface. Too much hardener, making the system crosslinked and brittle. Remember also that the glued elements cannot be loaded for a minimum of 24 hours.

Macosmail · Answer

Besides, glue holds the best as him nima

zimny8 · Answer

There was an episode of Probes , two surfaces of the metal so polished that atomic bonds are already interacting. Bonding surface too small?

MARCIN.SLASK · Answer

You can try another glue: eg Technicoll 7706 (or similar) - liquid metal, epoxy. It is true that it is much more liquid than Poxipol, but according to I am more suitable for bonding metal.
Unfortunately, the element would have to be disassembled and after applying the glue, grab the elements with something. The glue hardens only after 12-18 hours. Complete hardening after 48 hours.

Macosmail · Answer

He was there The point is that the surfaces should be as close to each other as possible, and the adhesive layer between them should be minimal. The surfaces should also be as rough as possible (the active surface increases) For this reason, cracks are best glued together, where everything fits together.

telecaster1951 · Answer

So that interactions occur between the surface of the glue and the element and the element and the glue. If there is a thick layer of glue, the interactions between glue and glue are generally weaker. Remember, however, that it is an epoxy resin. When well prepared, it has ABS strength. It's clearly badly done here. I use this at the university: As for me, there is no better resin. Odorless, with the consistency of kissel. Pre-dries in 2 hours. After 24 it cannot be moved.

Anonymous · Answer

Special adhesives are produced for bonding metals, but the connections made in this way are not strong.
In domestic conditions, the following procedure works - in the joined pieces, we drill two or three holes with a length of min. 5 diameters, stuff the epoxy resin into them and insert sections of steel rods, squeezed and set aside for hardening.
The problem may be the coaxial drilling of the holes - this requires care, but the facilitation is the fact that the holes should have a diameter of approx. 0.5-1 mm (it depends on the size of the pieces and the diameter of the bars) larger than the bars, which will allow the pieces to be put together accurately despite misalignment holes.
Here - I estimate that this element has a diameter of a dozen or so mm - it is enough to drill two 3.5mm holes, as the rods work well, the cylindrical tips of the fi3 drill, it is advisable to slightly puncture their surface with a hammer, cut the notches with a grinder, etc.

landy13 · Answer

Or use threaded rods. Eg screws without a head. If we also make a thread or something similar in the hole, the strength of such a connection increases many times.

km500 · Answer

.. and Droplet?
what do you think ordinary glue looks like. Droplet: effects vs need to sand the surface vs strength?
because sometimes we combine and combine and the simple solution is under our breath ...

Anonymous · Answer

They are much weaker (lower strength) than drills. I am writing about drills on purpose because they have a high bending strength, which determines the strength of such a connection - after all, these steel pins do for reinforcement here and, in fact, transfer forces. If such a pin bends even a fraction of a millimeter - the glue breaks and ... Yes or no. The thread first of all would improve the tensile strength, the bending strength may deteriorate. As I write above - a screw, for example M3, has a low bending strength, so there is no need to correct the thread, besides, it will be very difficult to screw the screw into a blind hole filled with resin. A droplet is a simple, fast and cheap way. And what's cheap and easy is ....

telecaster1951 · Answer

Cyanoacrylate is not an adhesive for such applications. It is a contact adhesive that sticks to small surfaces. It is perfect for sticking gaskets to metal elements, for gluing glass splinters or small elements made of some plastics. It is absolutely not suitable for gluing heavy-duty elements.

km500 · Answer

Perhaps the cause was an out-of-date adhesive. I don't know, because I changed a few things at the same time: I bought a different glue I prepared the surface I degreased And so far it holds

Poxipol Adhesive Fails on Metal Bathroom Paper Holder: Possible Solutions & Alternatives

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