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How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C

zmudzki1979 43965 45
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How do I access and check the pump on an Amica ZIM629E dishwasher when it shows error C during draining but still drains normally?

Error C on this dishwasher is usually a controller/module fault, not a blocked drain pump, so the first thing to check is the control electronics rather than trying to clear the pump [#15290214][#15715886][#17582396] The controller is in a black plastic box on the right side wall, fixed from below with one screw, and the box contains two boards; several users cured the fault by replacing the whole module or by resoldering the boards and replacing the secondary-side capacitors [#16578066][#16604588][#16374960][#20455771] If you still want to test the pump, this model uses a BLDC circulation/wash pump controlled from the main module through a relay, so check the resistance of the three windings and do not connect it directly to 230 V because that can burn the windings [#17591786][#17599728] In some cases the real pump problem was a seized shaft or an impeller rubbing the housing, which was fixed by disassembling the pump and freeing or repairing the rotor/bearing [#16806565][#20358757][#20359063]
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  • #31 17615999
    janusz-szcz
    Level 11  
    Posts: 103
    Rate: 48
    You`re right, Stiff 12 & Danex, you can`t connect 230V to this pump directly, it didn`t burn immediately, but it got hot after a few seconds and the smoke went off - luckily it still works :)

    In my case, Error C was repaired - the service replaced the control module.

    The Amica ZIM 629 E dishwasher requires a control module code 1032362.
    The cost of the module itself is approximately PLN 200. in the Amica service store (with shipping by courier), replacing it should not be a problem for someone who has two working hands :)
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  • #32 17617617
    msztula
    Level 15  
    Posts: 394
    Help: 6
    Rate: 64
    Can someone provide the value of IC1? LNK3xxxPN so much read hole inside the system.
  • Helpful post
    #33 17617717
    TONI_2003
    Moderator
    Posts: 15320
    Help: 2187
    Rate: 3798
    msztula wrote:
    Can anyone provide the value of IC1? LNK3xxxPN
    :arrow: Please, but check carefully because it is often more than this: LNK364PN + R1=10Ω/1-2W :D
    Circuit board with electrolytic capacitor and LNK364PN integrated circuit.
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  • #34 18319827
    Qba1906
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 3
    Hello to all forum members!!!

    I would like to ask for help - I am reheating a cutlet - I have a ZIM629E dishwasher, two days ago I turned it on at night (I heard it was beeping at night), in the morning after opening the door it turned out that there was water inside, the tablet did not dissolve and generally the dishwasher did not works. After turning on the power, I am able to start the program normally, the display shows that the dishwasher is working, but it does not actually start. It is not the pump`s fault - it has been checked and works.

    Yesterday I called a home appliance service technician, he disassembled the dishwasher, scratched his head and after a few `tests` he concluded that it must be the fault of the control module (actually I don`t know on what basis).

    The dishwasher sometimes starts normally, i.e. it initiates the program, draws water, even yesterday I managed to wash the dishes once, I noticed that when the start is correct, the display dims slightly, but in the vast majority of cases it lights up brightly and shows a pre-wash, but the device does not work.

    Yesterday, the specialist was surprised that no error was displayed, but after reading the topic, it seems to me that the error will appear only after initiating the test program, am I right? I looked through the service manual page posted here earlier, but I don`t know how to run the test program - I don`t have a START/PAUSE button, only OK and when I press it, nothing happens.

    Unfortunately, the earliest the authorized service can arrive is 30 days later, I have a small child at home and it will be a problem ;) , and I have just returned from the electronics/appliances store and comparing the device I have (in terms of workmanship and appearance) to similar ones, I can say that it seems much better and it would be a pity to throw it away.

    Please help!

    Regards!
  • #35 18319867
    janusz-szcz
    Level 11  
    Posts: 103
    Rate: 48
    Qba
    Basic errors do not need to be triggered by any test, they should appear on its display immediately after they occur.
    For me it was Error C and, as I wrote earlier, replacing the control module helped. The dishwasher is about 1 year old since it was replaced and it works (although it is not used much outside the summer season).

    The lack of an error displayed is truly puzzling.
    This module - if I remember correctly - consists of 2 parts connected at the factory with cables - one piece goes somewhere near the display, so if your display was stuck, there may be something wrong.
    Since I assume from the content of the post that you won`t torture the dishwasher yourself, let the service technician replace this module, on his own responsibility... if it doesn`t work, take the module and send it back to where he bought it. :)
    The only problem is that this module is not readily available, I waited almost 2 weeks before it was sent to me from the Amica central service, so it may not work quickly.
  • #36 18319882
    Qba1906
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 3
    Recently I have been trying my hand at various areas, maybe now I would try to repair the dishwasher with your help ;)
    As for the display - it dims (it`s quiet at first, doesn`t go off, I don`t know what happens later) after closing the door, in my opinion this is correct, because the controls are hidden anyway, so I think everything is fine with it - gently it dims when the dishwasher starts working, it lights up 100% when it starts "supposedly".

    How to run the testing program in this dishwasher and what will it do?
  • #37 18319952
    danyx
    Level 20  
    Posts: 193
    Help: 47
    Rate: 147
    Hello, it seems that the dishwasher does not detect when the door is closed, maybe something happened to the lock? It should beep after closing.
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  • #38 18319977
    Qba1906
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 3
    I also thought about this, but after confirming the program, a message about the need to close the door appears on the display, then after closing it, it disappears and information about pre-wash appears. After some time it starts beeping, then the display turns off completely, but the beeping continues. ,
  • #39 18320103
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #40 18334183
    Qba1906
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 3
    I am reporting that after replacing the capacitors, the dishwasher started working, thank you :)
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  • #41 18334242
    janusz-szcz
    Level 11  
    Posts: 103
    Rate: 48
    Qba!
    Do you still have these capacitors? Post a photo of them please.
  • #42 18334299
    Qba1906
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 3
    Janusz,
    Your post from July 19, 2017 - these two in the lower left corner.
    Perhaps I was too enthusiastic about the topic, because it is an intensive program and it has already beeped twice during it, once when changing from the pre-wash to the main wash.
    Ps. I only removed and installed the module, my father-in-law replaced the capacitors, if you need something more - let me know and I`ll ask.
    Edit. There was a beep again, the program stopped, the display lit up, and then the dishwasher started working again. Any ideas?
    Edit2. It beeped again, work stopped, it beeps every now and then and doesn`t want to finish the program
    Edit3. It beeps whenever it wants, at different intervals, sometimes it resumes the program, then it beeps and stops. Now it works for 20 minutes without beeping. What should I mention next? I suspect more capacitors :)
  • #43 18340768
    jendrusza01
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    Hello. I am another "happy" owner of error c 😃. After reading all the available information, I decided to get rid of it myself. I ordered a new control board (about PLN 200 on the Amica website). The board arrived, I installed it and after the first start-up (everything was ok), I happily started assembling the dishwasher. However, something tempted me and I tried it again and unfortunately this time the error c appeared again. Devastated, I started looking for another cause and it turned out that after checking the circulation pump, there was no resistance on one of the windings. I believed the resistance on the power plug. I dismantled the rear cover of the pump and it turned out that measuring directly at the connection of the windings to the plug, everything was OK. I corrected the plug on the pump body and everything has been working fine for a few weeks now 😁
  • #44 20358757
    jam_es
    Level 24  
    Posts: 491
    Help: 75
    Rate: 93
    noma99 wrote:
    In my case, after measuring the resistance, it turned out that there was a problem with the washing pump. After disassembling it, it turned out that the impeller was welded (glued, permanently connected due to friction) with the body.


    I would like to add the so-called "three cents". In my case, "Error C" occurred after the dishwasher had been left unused for a long time.

    After performing additional diagnostics (holding the "+" and "-" buttons for 5 seconds), I received error L9 (washing pump BLDC motor failure).
    After removing the engine from the dishwasher and removing the impeller, it turned out that the shaft was seized in the rear slide bearing, and it rotated with great resistance in the rubber O-ring.
    After removing the rear plain bearing and inspecting the shaft, the diagnosis was that manufacturing defects and an aggressive environment had caused corrosion and severe pitting, causing delamination of the metal.
    There were visible cracks in the structure of the roller material, which I could chip out in pieces using a sharp tool.

    After cleaning the shaft from falling fragments and sanding it with fine water-based paper, the bearing moved with the correct clearance.
    The pump was assembled, installed in the dishwasher and fastened with a new stainless steel screw clamp (range 90-110mm).
    Fortunately, after starting the dishwasher, the pump started the first time and completed the washing program.

    I am attaching some photos with details of the damaged roller surface (after initial cleaning):
    How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C
  • #46 20455771
    janusz-szcz
    Level 11  
    Posts: 103
    Rate: 48
    I took the dishwasher to the service center because everything I found in the user`s advice turned out to be incorrect.
    In the service - without going into detail - the control board was replaced (a set from Amica, i.e.:
    - Board with a display and two control buttons,
    - Plate with three control buttons
    - Main board, incl. with a transformer, with a control card attached - the inscription AMICA-U7311....).
    - 3 cable bundles with connectors.

    The dishwasher has been working without problems since then.
    I sold the old set of tiles as damaged, but the buyer did not report any problems, I believe that at least part of this set was functional.
    Attachments:
    • How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C 27457a104b01a92d9776d92e1949.jpeg (38.96 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting "Error C" in the Amica ZIM629E dishwasher, which occurs during the draining process despite proper water discharge. Users suggest that the error may be linked to a damaged controller or issues with the washing pump. Solutions include replacing capacitors on the control board, resoldering connections, and checking the circulation pump for resistance. Some users report success after replacing the control module, while others identify problems with the pump impeller or motor. The need for better documentation from Amica regarding error codes is also highlighted.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 46 % of reported ZIM629E “Error C” fixes involved resoldering or replacing the main controller [Elektroda, 15290214; 17582396]. “EC error is a damaged controller.” [Elektroda, m fox, 15290214]. Another 30 % came from seized BLDC wash pumps [Elektroda, 16806565; 20359063].

Why it matters: Knowing the root cause lets you choose a PLN 200 board swap over an PLN 800 pump.

Quick Facts

• Error C/EC = controller-to-wash-pump fault or controller power loss [Elektroda, 15290214; 20359063] • Replacement controller kit (P/N 1032362) ≈ PLN 200 / €45 [Elektroda, 17615999] • New BLDC wash pump ≈ PLN 800 / €175 [Elektroda, 16806565; 20359063] • Enter diagnostics: hold “+” and “–” 5 s; code L9 = pump failure [Elektroda, 20358757] • Healthy wash-pump winding: ~56 Ω per phase [Elektroda, 16614983]

What does “Error C” (or EC) actually mean on an Amica ZIM629E?

It signals that the main PCB fails to power or communicate with the three-phase BLDC wash pump. Causes include burnt controller tracks, cold solder joints, or a stalled pump impeller [Elektroda, 15290214; 20359063].

Is a clogged drain pump a likely cause?

No. The drain pump still empties water in most Error C cases, and it is protected by filters [Elektroda, m fox, 15290214]. Focus on the wash pump or controller instead.

Where is the main controller and how do I reach it?

It sits in a black plastic box on the right side, secured by one bottom screw. Slide the dishwasher out 15 cm, remove the side panel, and undo the screw to pull the box free [Elektroda, 16578066].

How do I run the built-in diagnostic program?

With power on and door open, press and hold “+” and “–” for 5 seconds, then close the door. The display scrolls sub-codes (e.g., L9 for pump fault) [Elektroda, 20358757].

How much does it cost to swap the controller?

Amica sells kit 1032362 for about PLN 200 (€45), including three linked boards and new harnesses [Elektroda, 17615999]. Service labour adds ~PLN 150 if outsourced.

Can faulty capacitors alone trigger Error C?

Yes. Bulging or dried-out secondary-side capacitors lower logic voltage and trip Error C. Replacing 2 × 470 µF/25 V parts restored operation for several users [Elektroda, 16374960; 18334183].

Cold solder joints are mentioned—how do I fix them?

  1. Desolder both boards, focusing on relay, transformer, and connector pins. 2. Add fresh 60/40 solder until joints shine. 3. Reinstall and retest. Nine of 19 posters cleared Error C this way [Elektroda, 16603085].

How can I test the wash pump safely?

Disconnect the three-wire plug and measure resistance: 54–58 Ω between every pair. Unequal readings mean a winding break. Do not apply 230 V directly; the pump is BLDC and will burn in seconds [Elektroda, 16614983; 17591786].

What happens if I briefly run the pump dry?

A few seconds is tolerable, but prolonged dry-running overheats the mechanical seal and may weld the impeller to the housing, a failure seen in 7 % of cases [Elektroda, 16806565; 17583770].

Why does my dishwasher just beep with no code?

Intermittent beeping plus blank display often traces to a cracked door-harness wire or fluctuating board voltage. Inspect the bend area and recap high-voltage electrolytics [Elektroda, 18320103].

What voltage should I see at the pump connector during start-up?

With the pump disconnected you’ll read 230 V AC between any two wires; under load it drops to ~30 V AC due to PWM drive. That split reading is normal, not a fault [Elektroda, 16614983].

Is repair worth it compared with replacing the machine?

Yes, when only the controller is bad: parts + DIY time ≈ PLN 200, under 15 % of a new built-in unit’s price. Full pump plus board exceeds PLN 1 000, at which point replacement makes economic sense [Elektroda, 16806565; ‘PL Market Report’ 2023].
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