How to Access and Check the Pump on Amica ZIM629E Dishwasher for Error C

The dishwasher throws "Error C" when draining water even though it drains properly and stops working. Amica does not write anything about such an error in the manual. I suspect that maybe something got into the pump. Does anyone know how to do this, i.e. how to get to the pump?

EC error is a damaged controller.
It is unlikely that anything got into the pump (there are filters)

I conclude that EC = C and there will be no service without it. Thanks for the help. By the way, Amica could describe errors more precisely in its manual.

Hello. You can know how the C error case ended, because I have a similar error and the service is still on hold :/
What is error C?

Thanks for the help

They replaced the entire controller, two boards. Of course, 2 weeks of waiting for parts from China. Generally, I guided the guy myself because he was throwing up his hands and had no knowledge about the C error

Replacing the capacitors on the secondary side of the converter of the module with the processor eliminated the display of error C in my case

After reading the message from NYKIEL, I removed the board and went to the electronics service and said that I would like to replace the capacitors on the secondary side of the converter. and replacing these capacitors eliminated the display of error C, the dishwasher works again!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!

It worked, washed it twice and again Error C

It worked for me twice after two days of break in use
The lady from the Amika manufacturer`s service said that it was a problem with the engine. She didn`t specify whether it was in the car or in the washing machine :D

How much does it cost to replace this controller and where is it located (it is difficult to get to)?
Did the controller fail on its own or do we need to look deeper for the cause?

The controller is located on the right side on the side wall in a black plastic box fastened with one screw from the bottom. I removed it again and resoldered all the solders and it still works It`s already been washed after 6 washes, so it`s great!

Have you soldered all the solders... Have you soldered all of the capacitors mentioned? Can you show the capacitors that need to be replaced in the photo?

Either way, I would remove the pump and check it outside the dishwasher.

Do you recommend checking the main pump or the water discharge pump?

How to check it after removal?

This is a water discharge pump, but I always check the circulation pump by connecting it directly to the electricity supply. I have a license to work with electricity, but I don`t know what it looks like in your case. Write how you check.

I re-soldered all the solders on both boards and that was the only thing that helped because replacing the capacitors didn`t help and after re-soldering it worked.

One disc is in a black box - as you wrote.
And where is the second one?

Added after 22 [minutes]:

stiff12 wrote:

This is a water discharge pump, but I always check the circulation pump by connecting it directly to the electricity supply. I have a license to work with electricity, but I don`t know what it looks like in your case. Write how you check.

Of course I will write.

I will check both pumps, but now I will also describe my case in more detail - maybe it will explain something:
1. The drain pump always works - water is discharged completely even after Error C occurs
2. After removing the controller board and reinstalling it, the dishwasher ran through the entire cycle several times without failure.
However, after these few times, Error C appeared again.
This was preceded by normal operation, after the basic washing, water was collected for rinsing.
The circulation pump should start (which worked ok during the main wash).
But then there was silence for a few seconds and a faint click (like a transmitter). The pump did not start. There`s silence again for a few seconds, then you click again - several times. Finally, an alarm and Error C. The drain pump has thrown out all the water.
I turned off the dishwasher, moved the box with the controller board intensively and ran the program for 8 minutes. soaking - the circulation pump also works in this program. This time, however, there was no error and the program finished without any problems.

Question - where does the click that you hear when the circulation pump should start come from? Is there a relay (where?), or does it come from the pump itself?

There are two boards in this black box, one for the control panel and the other for the control panel. From your description, it would seem that it is a cold solder because when you move the board, the dishwasher works and I recommend resoldering all the solders, especially in the control board with the diodes on it.

Well, I would check the circulation pump and connect it to the mains to see if it works every time the power is turned on.

stiff12 wrote:

Well, I would check the circulation pump and connect it to the mains to see if it works every time the power is turned on.

I will do the same, but can this circulation pump be run dry?

You can connect it this way and it should work smoothly,

stiff12 wrote:

You can connect it this way and it should work smoothly,

There are 3 cables going to the circulation pump: red, blue and brown.
I don`t know how to connect 230V to check this pump.
Does anyone have any idea?

Are there any inscriptions on the blue and brown cables?

I don`t see anything on the cables, but I found a plate with a description - the pump has a 3-phase motor and the colors of the cables are described on the motor casing as W-RED, V-BLUE, U-BROWN, this is the pump: Link

Added after 17 [hours] 5 [minutes]:

I also measured the voltage when the pump motor connector is connected and when the pump should start under load, voltage appears on each pair, but only about 30V AC (without load, with the connector disconnected - 230V AC appears between each pair of wires). .
Is it normal that without a load there is 230V on the cube, and after connecting the pump only 30V?

I also measured the resistance of each of the pump motor windings (between WV, VU and WU after disconnecting the motor connector) - approx. 56 Ω on each.

I can turn the pump impeller slightly with my finger.

Hello colleagues,

Unfortunately, I am the next owner of a dishwasher with error C. Do you remember, friends, when the dishwasher threw error C? For me, it happens about 2-3 minutes after starting the dishwasher, when the pump starts working.

Thank you in advance for your answer
Adam

I encountered a similar problem, I searched the Internet and I am attaching the dishwasher service file with a description of the diagnostics - resistance measurements in order to identify the location of errors. Description of main errors, description of washing pump errors, how to enter the diagnostic program.

In my case, after measuring the resistance, it turned out that there was a problem with the washing pump. After disassembling it, it turned out that the impeller was welded (glued, permanently connected due to friction) with the body. After tearing the rotor out of the body and turning it and the body, I assembled it with an additional Teflon washer. The dishwasher runs like new. The cost of purchasing a new pump is approximately PLN 800. I am attaching some photos taken during the renovation...

In my case, error C was displayed and washing stopped after pumping out the water. It was enough to resolder all the solders on the controller board and it has been working for 3 months without any errors.

I agree with my colleague in the post above - unfortunately I did not add that this connection should actually be for a moment. It works or it doesn`t. Something may be blocking it.

Robo-technical wrote:

janusz-szcz wrote:

stiff12 wrote:

Well, I would check the circulation pump and connect it to the mains to see if it works every time the power is turned on.

I will do the same, but can this circulation pump be run dry?

It will not break after 5 seconds, but the induction pump (especially if it is new from the "box") should not be used in dry running mode because the lack of flow and internal friction may result in damage to the seal assembly (especially if it is a so-called mechanical seal).

Hello, this model of dishwasher has a BLDC pump, and connecting it to the 230 V network will probably result in immediate burning of the windings. You can check the resistance of the windings on three wires, regardless of which one it should be the same.

There are three modules in this dishwasher model, the main module on the right side of the dishwasher with an attached pump module, and a module in the door at the top. You can hear the relay because the pump module is controlled from the main module using a relay.

In fact, if it is a bldc, it must not be connected to the network directly at 230 V.
Only and exclusively through the module!