Switching from 10W 12V Halogen Bulbs to LED: Is It Possible Without Fixture Replacement?

A solid company, you can buy. However, I prefer toroidal transformers.

I'm just ordering. I have AC / DC diodes. I know I can take any power supply. But in general it will be better to take AC or DC? If I took one that gives ~ 12V AC output, you could probably connect the halogen lights if necessary.


Thought to take:

3 x http://allegro.pl/transformator-do-led-12v-0-50w-4-3a-24gwar-zamel-i6442767134.html
for chandeliers with a load from 15 to 30W (Zamel does not produce transformers weaker than 50W)

2 x http://allegro.pl/transformator-do-led-12v-0-70w-6a-zamel-polski-i6468104064.html
for chandeliers with a load of ~ 54 W

I checked the dimensions etc.
Will there be a guitar?

It'll be a git in no time!

And so slower and boring, it does not make any difference for halogens whether the power supplies are AC or DC, it is simply cheaper and easier to make an AC power supply because the rectifier block is missing and that is why these are most often available for sale and installed in lighting fixtures. For LEDs, this is a big difference because they conduct only one way and require a current source, in your case the rectifier block and the current source are already in the holders together with the diodes. So at this stage it does not matter if you choose AC or DC, if it is AC it is important that it works stably at low power consumption (these bezels according to the description meet this condition). Well, unless we take into account the fact that on DC you will be able to later fire everything on AC and also LED holders in the DC only version.

I am just looking for something that will be more universal and will exclude any possible flickering of the LEDs. These transformers should do the trick, but since the DC power supply would have more uses, maybe it's worth installing one.
The DC-only diodes are much cheaper than AC / DC, but I already bought them all for AC / DC, so nobody will replace them for the next few years :-)

Only if it makes sense to support Edison's solutions

BatSk8 wrote:

rather, no one will replace it for the next few years

Don't say hop, you never know how many hours the current technology will work ;)

BatSk8 wrote:

Only if it makes sense to support Edison's solutions

Its solution ends with the cables in the walls, the power supply is already a receiver, so what is behind it is not Edison's business anymore

Hello
If I can add anything about power supplies.
I sincerely advise against "chynske" power supplies, if you want to buy something good, I recommend MEAN WELL power supplies. I had various power supplies, but this company lasts the longest. Currently, mean wella LED power supplies are on promotion at TME.

greetings

Zamel is kind of Polish. Will there be a big difference between it and MEAN WELL? From what I can see MW to LED are DC and they are more expensive.

What to finally take, an electronic transformer for AC or look for something after DC (MW?)?

Somehow I don't trust Zamel.
And I use MW power supplies not only at home but also at customers, I had no faults and complaints. Of course, the power must also be selected so that it is not just a little larger.
AC or DC? I will say this: DC for led
That's my opinion.
The decision is yours.

However, I bought a Zamele.
I was looking for Mean Well, but their descriptions were quite unclear, and there were only a few models on the Allegro, including none in the 70W range, but either 60W or 100W - and the latter cost a lot more.

In general, for 5 Zamels I paid as for 2 MW. Maybe it turns out to be a bad choice, we'll see :D

So far I wanted to connect everything, but:
1. The cables in the chandelier are both black, the plus and minus are not marked,
2. The power supply also does not indicate how to connect them, I also do not know where to put the blue and brown cables from the mains. The power supply is marked with "N" and "L" at the input.

It is a pity that the producers assume that each person is an electronics engineer and will guess :-D

Can you tell me how to hook it up so I don't screw up? :-D

Although it is AC, theoretically it does not matter?

N - zero, blue
L - phase, brown
Unless the electrician was smarter and connected the other way around.
The output does not make any difference, the current is variable, so there is no plus and minus.

Replacing one power supply went without a problem, it shines great and the light is constant.

I replaced the second one and for a moment everything was ok, then one of the LEDs "fired" throwing out a piece of melted plastic that started to burn on the sheets.
Still, the rest of the lights continued to glow (of course I turned off right away).

I extinguished the fire, but the sheets should be thrown away. Good thing it didn't hit me.

It was one of the expensive COB diodes with various "protections", AC / DC of course.

The same thing happened before with the halogen power supply, so it's not the power supply's fault.

I will return all these COBs to the seller, because I am afraid to sit under such a chandelier or at some point something will not shoot.
I warn you: http://allegro.pl/zarowka-led-halogen-3w-35w-g4-12v-ac-dc-nowosc-i6290070901.html

What could be the cause of this, anyway?

Savings on parts at the manufacturer, probably some capacitor shot.

When it comes to led frames, we currently have a light lottery to buy. Sometimes there will be an honest seller, he will write the truth about the product, without promising golden mountains, and sometimes not ... I once talked to a guy about China, he moved and opened a small factory of LED lighting. His father manages an office in Poland and so they have production and import in one. He gives me a catalog and asks just how many and which frames I want, they will write what they want on the packaging and on the "light bulb" itself. Most of the companies for which they produce do not even ask what the components are, but what the price, or can it be done cheaper. He showed me a lamp supplied to two companies, identical components for both, one on a cardboard box told me to write the data from their factory laboratory: 230 lm and 3.5 W, and the other box read 290 lm and 3 W. I do not mention the names of the companies because I do not remember somehow I have a better memory for numbers. When I said what components and properties of the product I would like, how did ufo look at ... LEDs are a brilliant product and with the current technology, a well-designed luminaire should easily survive us, but unfortunately it does not pay off for producers, and the consumer does not want to pay for it. so pay.

End of my depressing argument, give back what you bought, make a fuss and best request a refund for the linen! Without harassing mindless morons what they only want to earn, they will continue to sell junk gladly.

Added after 20 [minutes]:

I looked at the auction and broke down ... At the very beginning I wrote that you should not buy stronger than 3 W because such a small housing will cook, but what is at this auction has no cooling. Not a piece of aluminum, copper or even ceramics on the outside, all covered with plastic, should not even have 1 W of power.

I wanted to buy 2W, but it is currently hard to find on the Allegro, and 1W is as much as halogen, which is not enough light. I must have something to brighten up the room more. One chandelier is not enough for less than 2-3W.
In the previous apartment I had a few "pins" in the ceiling, on the GU10. The cost of one GU10 bulb is PLN 5, and for one really good bulb it is PLN 10. 4-6 light bulbs and I have an illuminated living room as in the daytime. Here's a slaughterhouse with these G4s.

As for the part, I guess it's all cheap from China, but I expected better quality for a purchase for PLN 800 in full (if the ceiling had normal GU10 pins, I would have made the whole apartment for PLN 100).
However, since they sell 3W, it should be OK. Those from other companies don't have any problem. I even have a similar COB, signed by the same manufacturer, but with a different "chip" (rectangular capacitor?) And everything is OK with them. Only the batch from that auction burns out one by one.
In fact, the temperatures during the burnout were cosmic - if that spit plastic fell on the skin, you'd have to go to the hospital with a burn and having to remove that shit from the skin. As if it fell on the head, it's a massacre at all. Bed linen does not matter to me, the most important thing is that nobody was hurt.

Were these bulbs not "sealed" in some "gel" (which is highly praised by retailers ) it would have nothing to dissolve. This capacitor would burn out and that's it.

In any case, a good topic as a warning. In the meantime, I will order 2W from someone else, if there are any - but it's hard to find something now.
Some sell it and 4W and more powerful on the G4 :)

I have attached photos. Don't buy anything from the company Lumiled !

IMG_201610...301333.jpg Download (100.59 kB) IMG_201610...304325.jpg Download (138.55 kB) IMG_201610...304430.jpg Download (132.24 kB)

Why not take something like this now?
It is not in silicone and all components are inside, so nothing should "splash". In turn, in the salon I have 3W in silicon (but not COB only normal) and everything is fine, nothing has happened for a month.

http://allegro.pl/zarowka-led-9smd-g4-12v-ac-dc-1-8w-ciepla-4923-i6012480307.html

There is something else like this:

http://allegro.pl/zarowka-led-1-8w-g4-3000k-3014-ac-dc-12v-silikon-i5899067057.html

What to choose? Overall, some drought on Allegro, nothing ~ 2W on AC / DC.

3W in the version like in the first link will feel similar (or even better) to 1W flooded, as in the second link. So the first, although not too beautiful, should last longer because at least the LEDs are in contact with the air, and the paths on the PCBs will also give off some heat.

Thank you for your help.

I have already replaced all the power supplies in 5 chandeliers, and it was not easy for a person with no experience I was especially surprised by the lack of any hooks for the chandeliers, it is hard to hold a heavy chandelier on a ladder and at the same time screw the cables to the ankle, not to mention screwing the chandelier itself (strange screwing instead of a turning / latch system). Apparently, technology is moving forward, and solutions like 100 years ago But the most important thing was that it worked.

Some facts:
- All LEDs now shine continuously (hurray!), Nothing buzzes, nothing flashes,
- Subjectively, the rooms are approx. 3 times brighter - using 4-5 times less energy (depending on the room), the color of the light is also more pleasant. Hopefully the service life will also be longer than that of the halogens
- You can even turn on one light bulb, in fact the Zameles work great even without a load (1W),
- These two chandeliers, where I had previously installed halogen-free LEDs, had toroidal power supplies (with the indication that they are only for halogen lamps). The rest had halogen electronic power supplies that only worked with minimal load. In any case, this explains why in some chandeliers I couldn't use LEDs alone without at least one halogen lamp. Interestingly, the Zamel power supplies are much smaller and lighter than the rest, and work better,
- Everything works on AC.

I ordered these bulbs what you recommended above (no silicone). When they come, I will confirm if everything is git, but there will be no more surprises here and everything will flicker as it should.

I returned these faulty bulbs today, the seller is obviously surprised by the whole situation, but he will accept the return without any problems and will return the goods to the distributor (Lumiled) with an appropriate note.
Hopefully this is just a flop and Lumiled will learn some lessons from it.

Thanks again for your help!

You save on chandeliers the same as on light sources, just thinking about a hook is a cost, let alone design and production, then 50 groszy would be on art!
I whine again
the most important thing is that it works and let it stay as long as possible.

I got those LEDs. Connected to a 70W Zamel chandelier and they dim / flicker, generally do not give stable light - problem as before
I was very surprised, because this power supply works in the range of 0-70W and there should be no problems. The power supply is the same as in the living room and everything is OK there.
The light bulbs are 24 x 1.8 W = 43.2 W.

Interestingly, I connected 9 of these bulbs to another 50W Zamel chandelier (only 9 go there) and no problems.

What could be the reason? But is the Zamel not that stable in the range of 0-70W? Should I buy other / more powerful LEDs?

I tested all the others that I have and it is OK with all of them (2W gel, 3W gel, no 3W gel), only with the new ones, it's okay.
I guess another twist awaits me.

edit

It turns out these LEDs didn't have CCDs. I checked the ones from the CCD showroom and everything was OK. I ordered a new one