LED Strip - Kitchen Cabinet Lighting: Superled 300 SMD 3528 Glows When Off & Responds to Touch

Hello!
My problem is that the LED strip I have connected to as lighting for kitchen cabinets glows after being turned off. I have a switch for LED strips and also a power supply. I am a complete layman in these matters and I have no idea what I connected wrong. In addition, if I touch this tape or press harder with my hand, the LEDs start to glow more in this place.
Here are the specifications of the things I purchased and installed:

Led tape:
Superled LED strip 300 SMD 3528 warm white
Technical data:
Color: warm white
Roll length: 5m
300 LEDs:
The possibility of cutting every 5 cm (module 3 LEDs).
Working time up to: 50 thousand hours.
Beam angle: 120 degrees.
Uniform light distribution.
Power supply: 12V DC.
Energy consumed: 4.8W / 1mb.

Connector for 8mm LED strips + cable with DC socket + switch

Charger:
LED line Professional 12V 14.4W LED power supply
Professional power supply dedicated to LED 12V DC lighting, impulse, stabilized.
12V DC output voltage
Input voltage 230V AC
Power 14.4W
Protection class IP20
CE, RoHS certificates,
Short-circuit, overload and thermal protection

It is said to be a set and everything fits together (this is the answer I got from the store) I will add that earlier I also had a led strip in the same place and it also shone gently after switching off and after a year individual leds started to burn out until finally the whole tape was gone, so please help.

pestkatwo wrote:

Professional power supply dedicated to lighting

Apparently, the name is only professional. If it was well insulated and properly controlled, such "nativity scenes" would not exist. Tip: change the power supply.

A power supply as a power supply - an ordinary 12V plug, neither professional nor amateur, nor dedicated to LEDs. The problem is not in the power supply.

What is the total length of the mounted belt, how is it mounted, what is it mounted to and what exactly is it connected to?

Maybe the switch in the "off" position is a bit conductive? Where is he in the system?

_jta_ wrote:

Maybe the switch in the "off" position is a little conductive?

Maybe, but not necessarily. Strange things can happen with LEDs due to leakage currents. Such an LED glows at several hundred uA leakage current.

Many people face similar problems, for example by screwing in an LED lamp instead of an ordinary light bulb into a luminaire that is switched on through a switch with a neon lamp. Very often such a lamp then glows slightly, because the circuit is closed by a neon lamp and a resistor cooperating with it.

Therefore, in order to avoid this type of problem, the leds should be used with two-pole switches, and in this case disconnect on the 230V side, not 12V.
But I am curious how the author of the topic solved it.

If it is a neon switch (or LED) for backlighting when the light is off and it is still on 230V, it's no wonder ...

Exactly - the key to the puzzle are the questions that I asked the author of the topic and until we get the answers to them, we can only ask.

Thank you for your interest in the topic.

Artur k. wrote:

What is the total length of the mounted belt, how is it mounted, what is it mounted to and what exactly is it connected to?

the total length of the tape is about 3.5 meters. Installation looks like this: the power supply through a socket (such a round one) connected to the switch, and the switch through a connector with a tape. The whole thing is connected to the socket that has been connected to the cable that goes to the absorber. Could there be a problem?
The tape is attached to the double-sided tape for furniture. When I called the store, they said that there was never a complaint with this set.
I would like to add that I have the same set at the wall under the table top on an aluminum strip and only 1 LED is faint after switching off. There, the length of the tape is about 4.2 m, and the whole thing is connected to a wall socket.
This is what this switch looks like:

And when you disconnect the plug from the power supply, the LEDs go out? If so, the switch is defective.

This is a 95% defect of the power supply, it has a puncture. I have encountered such "faults"

Breakthrough to what? After all, it is an ordinary plug-in power supply. There may be a leakage problem here, but definitely no breakthrough. That is why I asked, among other things, what the tape is mounted for, in the case of mounting to a piece of furniture, there is no leakage of the tape itself.
You need a two-pole switch, or you need to turn off the lighting on the 230V mains side. And that's it.

Artur k. wrote:

Breakthrough to what?

For the mass of the original, I have dealt with such accidents many times.

Freddy wrote:

For the mass of the original, I have dealt with such accidents many times.

It's because of the line filter. These things happen when you stick a tape on, for example, a large metal grounded surface. Here, however, we have a tape stuck to the piece of furniture. The furniture is usually wooden (though not always).

Artur k. wrote:

It's because of the line filter. These things happen when you stick a tape on, for example, a large metal grounded surface.

Exactly so, but the same effect is given by a puncture from the primary side .

_jta_ wrote:

And when you disconnect the plug from the power supply, the LEDs go out? If so, the switch is defective.

but should I completely disconnect the power supply from the mains or the switch from the power supply? because anyway it will be a disconnection from the electricity. When I disconnect the power supply from the network, it is known that the problem disappears because there is no access to the network. and I cannot remove the switch from my installation because the led strip is not terminated with this circular socket. I would have to buy a coupler with this socket.

the furniture is wooden only in one place (about half of the slat) there is an aluminum fragment from the dish dryer.

And the fact that when I press the strip with my finger to the diode, they start to glow stronger, it is also related to my problem is this the norm?

when it comes to the fact that it is the fault of the power supply (as I wrote, I do not know anything about it, BUT ...) with the previous led strip there was no power supply, only such a white converter and the problem was the same. At the beginning, the LEDs were also glowing when turned off and then it was getting worse and worse and worse and worse until they went down completely. I'm afraid it will be the same now.

Oh, and if I had the ability to easily turn off the LEDs straight from the mains, it would not be a problem, but I have the socket high on the furniture, so I wanted a switch that I can install in a convenient place. And I heard something like a stabilizer. can it be installed for leds?

See what happens when you remove the power supply from the socket, turn the plug 180 ° and turn it on again.

Freddy wrote:

See what happens when you remove the power supply from the socket, turn the plug 180 ° and turn it on again.

that unfortunately did not solve the problem.

I will buy this connector for the tape with a round socket and I will try to bypass the switch and connect the tape directly to the power supply.

And the fact that when I press the strip with my finger to the diode, they start to glow stronger, it is also related to my problem is this the norm?

And this indicates a breakdown in the insulation in the power supply ... Do you have a voltage tester with a neon lamp? Check that it lights when connected to the power supply output.

Perhaps in the previous set there was also a breakdown in the power supply, more and more current was flowing through it, and finally something "went out" for good.

Gentlemen, this is not a breakdown, but a normal thing in switching power supplies - there is a filter on the input, and since the device is in protection class II, it has no PE, so the center of the filter divider is connected to GND on the secondary side.
That's why you need to give a two-pole switch or turn off the whole on the 230V mains side.

That's why you need to give a two-pole switch or turn off the whole on the 230V mains side.

... or ground a ground at the output of the power supply. Or maybe the plug of the power supply has grounding, only the socket is not?

_jta_ wrote:

or ground the ground at the output of the power supply.

Absolutely not allowed!

_jta_ wrote:

Or maybe the plug of the power supply has grounding, only the socket is not?

No, it is a standard II protection class plug-in power supply.

I have presented the only sensible solution that complies with the applicable standards.

Absolutely not allowed!

This looks suspicious to me: the device has a voltage on the mass, and it must not be earthed so that it is not there?
I don't remember knowing such rules, but maybe I need to learn - will you indicate where from?
What if such a power supply were to be used to power equipment connected by something grounded?

_jta_ wrote:

This looks suspicious to me: the device has a voltage on the mass, and it must not be earthed so that it is not there?

But this voltage, although high, because 1/2 of the network, the current is small and not dangerous. Exactly the same solution is used in power adapters for laptops and other portable devices - that's why there are often problems with strange noises, crackles, etc., when such a computer is connected to a grounded audio system.

_jta_ wrote:

I don't remember knowing such rules, but maybe I need to learn - will you tell me where from?

These are the norms for electric shock protection, I won't tell you exactly which ones, because I don't remember. I had about it during the SEP training.

_jta_ wrote:

What if such a power supply were to be used to power equipment connected by something grounded?

That an equalizing current would flow between this power supply and the housing of the device, and it is possible that it would damage the device. You will not come across a device that is powered by such a power supply and must be grounded, and devices that are not intended for this should not be grounded.

And why would the equalizing current to ground damage the device, if it is so small that it should not be harmful to the user?

These are the standards for electric shock protection
As far as I know, it is the lack of grounding that can lead to electric shock (and I have had electric shock before - from a computer) - who and for what makes up such standards?

_jta_ wrote:

And why would the equalizing current to ground damage the device, if it is so small that it should not be harmful to the user?

With the fact that the voltage is high and can damage, for example, integrated circuits.
It is not a novelty to damage e.g. HDMI inputs on TV or receivers for this very reason. TV or receiver are usually in protection class II and PE is not, but the TV is often connected to the cable TV installation, which is grounded. Then all elements connected directly to the TV are grounded via the antenna cable.

_jta_ wrote:

As far as I know, it is the lack of grounding that can lead to electric shock (and I have had electric shock before - from a computer) - who and for what makes up such standards?

Yes, but such power supplies are used to power devices in protection class III, and these usually have housing made of non-conductive plastic, so there is no risk of electric shock.
The computer, due to the fact that it is metal, is a device with protection class I and should be grounded.

Hello.
the furniture is wooden only in one place (about half of the slat) there is an aluminum fragment from the dish dryer.
Maybe that's the problem.

In the previous set, there was no power supply, and yet there was a similar reaction. the most likely version is with this switch because it was also in the previous set. You can only offer me a model because, as I have emphasized many times, I do not know anything about it ...

here is the link to the power supply I bought:

http://elektro-hurt.com/opis/6924248.html

pestkatwo wrote:

In the previous set, there was no power supply, and yet there was a similar reaction.

It had to be, because the air LEDs do not shine. :)

The surest solution is to disconnect the power supply on the 230V side - so you need a simple switch from the lamp and a man who will install it.

Thanks for all the answers and help. I thought that the problem is more common, all the more so because for 3 of the sets I bought in all 3 of them, it appeared.

Thank you again

Because not many people install the way you do. Most often, the switch is on the 230V network side, then there is no problem. This solution has one more advantage - no power consumption after switching off the lighting. In your case, you turn off the lighting, but the power supply is still working and consuming electricity. These are not large amounts, but still.