Toyota Corolla Verso 2007R 2.2 D-4D - Stuck car, unable to start

Hello,
Toyota Verso 2,2 D-4D Diesel, 2007R.

I have a question because after the last frosts I tried to start the car, but with a terrible groan, I could not start it, even though the battery is about 12.50V. And besides, the whole dashboard went out, the alarm sounded for a moment, but the electronics started to freak out very weakly and everything went out. Then, for some time, despite the fact that all the lights were off, the oil light on the board was on when the car was off. After connecting the charger to the battery, the alarm went off again ... Yes, no reaction, the remote control does not work at all, when the alarm went on, the board started to glow and blink but it did not help the remote control for the alarm and nothing ... What about that could you do? Because I do not know about these new cars with electronics.

First check the voltage on the battery .. When firing up. When it drops below 10 volts, it goes to the store for a new one.

I just can't do anything, I put the remote / key into the socket - zero reaction. You can not fire or anything, the voltage on the battery is ok but dry. Zero reaction with the car froze no matter what. It is true that he has been behaving strangely recently when I tried to start it, but diesels probably have it. He was groaning and the alarm was screaming but faint and it fell completely since then today when I wanted to recharge the battery, the alarm started to sound after connecting to the electricity. The guidance panel started blinking etc ... but no reaction to the pilot or something or anything. Only after disconnecting the clamp, it stopped howling, so it is off every now and then ... can it charge the battery yet? Or wait until it thaws, but I don't like the alarm and the fact that there is no response to the pilot.

Toyota's weak point is the mass that goes from the battery to the body.

Before you destroy your car / beat the electronics, check the weight that your colleague wrote about, check the high-current fuses, replace the battery. In my opinion, it is the battery itself that is causing the fault. Now the question is whether the security measures withstood starting attempts.

And pro after this mass, how should I check it?
Now I have so that after inserting the battery and connecting it to the clamps, the alarm sounds immediately and I can not do anything with it, i.e. the remote control cannot be turned off, only the clamp is removed, why is this happening and what to do with it?

Give the car over to a specialist, you have already done what you could.

woda_cisowianka007 wrote:

connecting it to the clamp, the alarm yells immediately and I can not do anything with it, i.e. the remote control cannot be turned off

What company alarm system is installed in your car?
Pilotless or with an additional remote control?
Factory or "extra"?

You need to synchronize the alarm control unit with the "remote control".
This is done differently in each system.

I have the alarm in the original remote control (chip) for the car.
From what I can see, under the hood there is this mod with an alarm for a key, I do not know what it is for, but it looks like this.
As for this mass, what to do with it? Maybe this is where the problem is as you say?

woda_cisowianka007 wrote:

As for this mass, what to do with it?

Check, correct the connection, replace the cable with the battery terminal.

Usually, damage to the clamp or ground cable cannot be seen with the naked eye.

woda_cisowianka007 wrote:

a mod with an alarm for a key, I do not know what it is for, but this is how it looks

Do what he suggested @Paw_el wawa

Pawel wawa wrote:

Give the car over to a specialist, you have already done what you could.

You can't do anything yourself.
You don't even know what kind of unmanned alarm it is (manufacturer?), So no one will tell you how to synchronize it with the car again.

Okay then I'll take him in tow and take him to the mechanic.
By the way, so that I do not assume a new topic, I want to ask about my 2 car Opel Astra f 98rok estate. Because I am freaked out by the alarm, i.e. usually now during these night frosts, when I fire it, the alarm beeps not synchronously anyway, anyhow, only after a while, when I fire it, it stops, but sometimes while driving, it sometimes likes to choke for no reason. The alarm is added to it not original - is it normal in this car with such an alarm?

Abnormal. Need to be fixed.

Trash can starter. That's where the Mitsubishi sits

woda_cisowianka007 wrote:

Only after disconnecting the clamp, it stopped howling, so it is off every now and then ... can it charge the battery yet? Or wait until it thaws, but I don't like the alarm and the fact that there is no response to the pilot.

First of all, disconnect the battery and charge it. In the car, close all doors, insert and connect a charged battery, close the hood, close and open the central lock (with the key in the lock), try to arm / disarm the alarm from the remote control.

tzok, after connecting a charged battery, the alarm still beeps. I did not fire it, but tell me how exactly to do with this alarm? Try because you arm the remote control or remove the key from the remote control and put it in the door and lock the door lock? (you don't have to put it under the hood sometimes for this alarm module? because there is also a lock for this key and maybe it needs to be armed there?).

PS Sorry that he asks stupidly and it sounds very amateurish, but I have not had contact with this type of car and this type of thing, I want to start it but if I can not do it, I will definitely not do anything more with it and I will give it to someone who knows. .. although move this alarm because he howls and I do not know what to do with it until everyone is looking at the estate !!!

You can probably turn off the siren with the key under the hood. Try to close and open the car - if you succeed with the remote control, then with the remote control, if not with the key. Make sure that the hood, trunk and all doors are closed and then try to lock the car with the central locking and then open it. For the future, do not try to charge the car battery with a regular charger (without electronics).

Okay, tomorrow I'll look into it and see what I can do about it.
As for the charger, it is ok with the short-circuit protection and also after charging the battery, it maintains the voltage only on it and does not charge it with full power all the time.
I will let you know what and how, thanks and best regards.

tzok - I did as you said, I charged the battery at home, cleaned the clamps, plugged it in nicely and with all the car doors closed, armed and unset the alarm and that was all there was to it. The car fired, everything is ok. Thanks for the help and the flies helped for you. I didn't think that a crap like the door opened earlier could be the cause of this alarm ... Thanks and best regards.

This is standard in unmanned alarms (controlled by the factory remote control from the central locking). After the power is disconnected, the central locking must be successfully closed and then unlocked for the alarm to disarm (some alarms still require the driver's door to be opened). I usually deal with the fact that I unfasten (or press and hold) the end switch of the mask, close the car and then disconnect the battery. Then, after connecting a charged battery, you just need to open the central lock and you can attach the end of the mask (only, it is not always easy to detach it).