Toyota Corolla Verso 1.8 - interior lighting with the door open

Hello and welcome.
I was replacing the bulb in the front of the cabin light lamp and there was a short circuit. I replaced the 7.5A fuse and, unfortunately, since then there is no light after opening the door and no backlight of the ignition switch with the key.
The light on the board is on when the door is open, so the sensors are ok. The lights work as normal.
Apparently there is a mysterious module under the fuse box somewhere - I dived under the steering wheel today and there is nothing there - no module - just a tiny fuse box and that's it.
Does anyone know where the thing that is responsible for dimming the light when the door is closed could be? This timer...?
Please help. Alternatively, maybe someone has a diagram of the interior lighting in Corolla Verso 2007.
Regards and thanks for the suggestions.

Added after 7 [hours] 5 [minutes]:

I noticed one more thing - namely, it seems that this timer module works, because it turns off the backlight of the start / stop button after several seconds. He was out with the lights. So it seems that what controls and dims works - only there is no current to the lamps ...
Could something have blown besides the fuse?
I'm thinking - it is possible that the front lamp at which there was a short circuit plays a significant role in all this? Maybe it's the signal of the open door that is supposed to come to it and only then to the rear one.
The trunk light works as it used to...
Kind regards

Check the fuses again, in Toyota there are fuses in several places, and check with the indicator light.

Hello.
Thank you for your interest. I checked all the fuses again with a multimeter. They are in 4 places. Under the steering wheel, on the side of the dashboard and two boxes under the hood. All fuses ok.
Crap - something had to burn, but what - some kind of relay? Some people say something called "INTEGRATION RELAY" needs to be replaced, but that's the whole fuse box... does it need to be replaced? Strange thing.
Regards and please give me some suggestions.

Look closely at the entire ceiling lamp, that's where the damage is the most.

Well, when I dismantled it, the switch fell off and you can see that something was glued there - I can't fix it anymore, because the plastic rivets fell off ... I have to buy a used one.
However, would this lamp have such an impact on the whole installation and would not allow the lamp above the back seat to turn on?
Everything was fine before I took it apart...
Is it possible to short it somehow to check if this lamp was the cause?

Regards

Take pictures of the lamp.

Thanks - I'll take a picture after work - but I ordered the lamp anyway, because the switch fell off with the metal plate
There is nothing inside that would indicate damage to e.g. metal plaques - paths - they are extremely thick ...
greetings

Added after 6 [hours] 29 [minutes]:

Hello. I post a photo.
greetings

I have a question and a huge request. the cabin lighting in the door position does not work for me. on ON works. Where is the module that is responsible for turning on the light when the door is open and slowly dims the light later ?? How to remove and replace it?

If the case concerns the same car, the module is integrated with the fuse box, which is located under the steering wheel on the left - you can see it after opening the door and looking at the side of the dashboard through this flap ...
I have a problem myself because I have no idea how to get to it.
greetings

@mpendzik
Were you able to solve the problem? I have it exactly ... and this also happened after replacing the middle bulb in the headliner. I also fell for the 7.5A fuse. I replaced and works everything except the door position and the key socket lighting.

Unfortunately, I haven't solved the problem. I have already sold the car.
greetings

I have exactly the same problem, I am trying to fight, I hope that something comes out of it, if I succeed I will not fail to share.

Hello, I have the same problem at home. Anyone solved this puzzle?

I am trying to do just that, there is a module for softly dimming the light, I just haven't traced it yet, surely when I fight it, I will boast

mpendzik wrote:

If the case concerns the same car, the module is integrated with the fuse box, which is located under the steering wheel on the left - you can see it after opening the door and looking at the side of the dashboard through this flap ...
I have a problem myself because I have no idea how to get to it.
greetings

Hi,
Did you figure it how to took out the hole fuse box?

Regrads,

Dodano po 16 [minuty]:

viktorjo wrote:

mpendzik wrote:

If the case concerns the same car, the module is integrated with the fuse box, which is located under the steering wheel on the left - you can see it after opening the door and looking at the side of the dashboard through this flap ...
I have a problem myself because I have no idea how to get to it.
greetings

Hi,
Did you figure it how to took out the hole fuse box?

Regrads,

Oh you have already sold your car, sorry now I am reading this.

Did anyone has an issue with remote keyfob? after door dimming light failure.
My car battery went dead and after several hours I've installed new battery ,both remotes stopped to working. Doors are open/close from the door switch , even with little key inside fob, so the central locking system is ok, but both remotes are not responding. Changed remote batteries but nothing happens. Try with procedure for several time shutting/closing door but without success.
If anyone has a similar issue please help.

I warmly welcome.
A similar problem happened to me.
I came up with the idea of changing the interior lighting to white LED bulbs, this color suits my Toyota interior more.
Corolla Verso 2005 year, 2.0 D4D.
Of course, during the replacement of the central light bulb in the front part of the headliner there was a short circuit and, of course, the rear light stopped working.
I immediately opened the flap on the left side of the cockpit and got to the fuses, after a short while I found "7.5 A" blown, so I replaced it.
Unfortunately, the exchange did not help.
I struggled with the topic for another hour and did not come up with anything, the only thing I was able to determine after dismantling the lamp is that the plug is not supplied with electricity.
I started searching forums and I came across information about the module from this backlight which is under the fuse box and that it often sits at a short circuit on the tel lamp.
In addition, in the fact that I burned this module, I was recorded by the fact that people writing about it, and more precisely about its defect, pointed out that the key input backlight then disappears. (I flew to the car, it also fell)
For two days I was preparing to dismantle parts of the car from the fuse box and today I started with the topic.
I did not work for a long time because when I tried, or rather looking for a way to remove the cover under the steering wheel, I came across a tiny fuse box, for me it is more like a fuse strip.
It is located just above the clutch pedal under such a cover screwed on with a screw.
It turned out that a fuse also blown there. With a short circuit in one lamp, it blown fuses in two places.
After replacing the fuse in the second box, the lighting came back.
Maybe in some of these cases it will also help.
The photo below shows this flap or the cover is partially open and there are fuses behind it.

Do you remember which fuses were? I just replaced the one that according to the scheme is responsible for the interior lighting and the lighting has returned, but only lit manually - after opening the door it is still dark.

There is no problem with fuses, problem is in behind the whole fuse box. There are some resistors and capacitors which are responsible for time delay and In my case left side from the wheel dont have light (mirrors motor, lights motor and key fob hole). dont bother with that, to fix it you should take off whole dashboard to reach to the fuse box and thats a lot of work.

I just did the same thing - an error when replacing the bulb and a problem

so as not to bore you, the fuses mentioned do not solve the problem.
The comfort module needs to be replaced or repaired.
I bought the whole module for a little money. I replaced it without any problems and everything works fine. Important ! you do not have to disassemble anything - you can do it all through the hole in the glove box on the steering wheel. If someone has knowledge and soldering irons, you can try to repair it, but is it worth it?

Toyota corolla 1.6 SOL 2004

Hello, are you able to take a picture of the hole through which you got to the module? I have been struggling with this problem for two years now

Hello. If anyone has problems with the interior lighting in Corolla Verso, I will tell you that you do not need to pull out the entire dashboard. I just replaced the module. Just remove the airbag under the steering wheel, unplug the plug from the module which is mounted on the back of the fuse box. Unfasten from the latches and here it is a bit problematic. I messed up my old module because the access is really poor. I installed a new one with the same numbers and everything works fine. You will definitely need short screwdrivers and some patience. Once the controller is unscrewed and removed from the latches, you need to pull it out of the pins that hold it quite firmly. I didn't worry about mine and I did it by force, because I bought a second one for replacement.

maciek8638 wrote:

Hello. If anyone has problems with the interior lighting in the Corolla Verso, I will tell you that you do not need to pull out the entire desktop. I just replaced the module. Just remove the airbag under the steering wheel, unplug the plug from the module which is mounted on the back of the fuse box. Unfasten from the latches and here it is a bit problematic. I messed up my old module because the access is really poor. I installed a new one with the same numbers and everything works fine. You will definitely need short screwdrivers and some patience. The driver, as soon as you manage to unscrew it and unplug it, you need to pull it out of the pins that hold it quite strong. I didn't worry about mine and I did it by force because I bought a second one for replacement.

Hello Sir, thank you for the information. I was wondering if you replaced the whole fuse box or only the module that is installed in the back of the fuse box. Will this solve the interior light not turning on when you open the door? I have already checked all the fuses in the main fuse box on the side and the additional fuse box near the clutch pedal. All fuses are ok, so it seems the module is defective.

Last question: no need to reprogram car after replacing module?

Best Regards!

Can someone who has it worked send a picture or a foto where this box is not only the box itself but the foto where it is stated in the car and where to open it because I fully dismantled it except on the left side of the steering wheel and under the steering wheel it would help if there can be seen an except picture where to disassemble this.
kind regard T.S.

Hello. I just replaced the module. It's too much fiddling to get the entire fuse board out. I approached this topic several times and did not want to disassemble the entire desktop. As I wrote earlier, it is quite difficult to replace the module itself because the latches hold it tightly, the access is quite weak but it can be done. My lighting works fine. I didn't program anything. I installed the module with the same no.

Do you have pictures of the module and where it is exactly, because I have the exact same problem?
And I really want to fix this

Hello

I have the same problem with the interior light. I have already replaced the fuse box three times, but it still only worked for 3-4 months. Can anyone advise where the problem could be? If something were to short out, I think it would blow right away and not in 3 months. Thank you for the answer

Toyota Corolla Verso 2008 1.8 petrol

Well, I can see I'll be in for a fun time too. Also replacing the bulbs.... Ehhh. In addition, I noticed that the lamp is all broken. Probably a foreman dismantled the headliner after a hailstorm and broke it into small pieces. Have any of you replaced your headlamp with a different model? I originally have 81263-05230 and am looking for something compatible. Maybe from a newer vintage? E.g. 812600F120? I currently have a 2007 Petrol

I see that the topic is still being worked through. In my case it looked like the lighting died again after some months after replacing the module. I bought another module and before replacing it, I blew out all the LED bulbs in the interior of the car. What turned out was that in the boot, one of the bulbs was making a short circuit and my modules were burning through it. I put in regular bulbs, another module and peace and quiet until today. The other thing that can cause a short circuit is the headlight lamp. Mine is total junk, glued several times. I would be happy to send pictures of exactly where it is, but I don't have any more. As I wrote earlier, the controller is on the back of the fuse panel, access is via the removed safety pad under the steering wheel.

do not put any leds in toyotas, I have already replaced some of these modules, the access is tragic but it is possible to remove them without pulling out the dashboard, usually bulbs should be installed on the removed clamp so they do not short circuit and there will be no problems, if you want leds, buy a car from the vag group where they are standard.

>>19045518 >>20325657 Hi. Any suggestions on how to go about getting this cushion out?