[Solved] Fridge UPS Power Requirements & Sine Wave Type: EVER 700 CDS Compatibility with Refrigerator

Łukasz.K wrote:

Sine 3000 by Volt.

We are talking about the "wolf" this is the converter that has failed, what is interesting is the damage to the high-voltage part, e.g. a short circuit does not turn off the low-voltage part, the converter beeps, flashes LEDs and does the so-called cold start, the power supply current increases to 200A and turns off in a moment it starts and so on and on and on the cycle is short enough from the 70A fuse, it is not able to burn only the batteries and the bottom ...
The cooling system consists of small heatsinks the size of a matchbox, the outer aluminum housing is not used for cooling.
A small fan, probably 3x3cm, is screwed to these radiators and in order not to howl like a damned man, you need to align the plane of the radiators under it because it is screwed to two different radiators at once and these inequalities + temperature cause deformation of its plastic housing, it won't hurt to put a sticker under the lid because this fan is already working from a few % load.

In general, this converter is not bad electrically, it has a small self-consumption, good parameters, the disadvantages are the cooling system and poor protection.

You can theorize and nothing comes of it.
He gives an example from life: I have a solar system with a 1200 W continuous and 1500 W impulse converter - a 130 W working fridge and 700 W starting current, and sometimes my protections fail anyway. So when working with such receivers, an inverter with a very large margin must be used, I think that in this case 2000 W in the impulse would do the trick. Perhaps the quality of the converter is also important, I have Volt Polska.

I did the test.
UPS 1000VA Delta - the refrigerator overloads it and does not start (UPS turns off, it has protection)
On Youtube, I saw a guy measure the starting current of a refrigerator with a power (from the plate) of 50W. It came out about 6A (i.e. 2kW of impulse power ...)

Of course, a UPS with a full sine on the output.

Hello, after the last storms on the plot there must have been no electricity for a good dozen or so hours, as a result of which all the accumulated frozen fruit supplies for the winter flowed and froze again, in a word it became a frozen mush.

I became interested in the UPS to support the fridge in an emergency and I got here - I see that the main problem is not so much the ordinary power consumption, but the power needed to start the generator.

Here my idea appeared, but I am not a specialist - there are various types of soft starters for devices on the market, the ones I see are for brush motors and are used in angle grinders, vacuum cleaners, etc. - would something like this be used in a refrigerator unit? Maybe go in this direction to limit the start-up current than spend a lot of money on a powerful UPS?

I'm just after a four-day power cut and I was forced to test the UPS to power the fridge. Just like the founder of the topic, I have evera 700, which normally works as an emergency power supply for the pump and the furnace controller and homemade solar with a positive result. On the battery from the car fridge freezer Beko 5-year class A +. At first, she didn't want to move, but after a few turns she started and on a full battery (probably a small one about 50Ah) she walked around without a break for about 2 hours before the battery voltage dropped to 11.5V. I did this several times a day and I have a few observations. Half an hour of idling the car is enough for about an hour of fridge operation. The problem with the start decreased as there was a good connection of the clamps with the UPS. When the charged battery had 13V, the refrigerator ran unevenly, the unit seemed to shake, it helped to connect an additional load for a moment. The problems disappeared as the voltage on the battery loaded with the fridge dropped to around 12.3V. On the battery in the car, the refrigerator ran very unevenly, until something knocked in the compressor, probably due to too high voltage on the battery. Do you have any advice on how to troubleshoot the overvoltage problem? Could a solar charge controller be used for this? I just have a 20A regulator.

I practiced various options, and ended up replacing the converter with a larger one (unfortunately). Problems with starting the refrigerator have finally ended, and it is not the only receiver on this converter at the moment. Previously, the refrigerator itself often failed to start. Power of the current converter 2500 VA (Volt company) The previous 2000 VA (same company) often, but not always, did not start. Don't play half measures, there's no point.

And have you tried how the fridge behaves when the UPS is connected to the fired car? Because starting is one problem, and uneven operation when the battery has more than 12V is another and it may not be related to the low power of the UPS. Maybe all everys are like that?

I have an Electrolux 180cm refrigerator with an HQM 90 AA unit.
According to the operation manual, the generator consumes 0.71A in the operating mode, but starting it is as much as 9.3A, which is over 13 times more than in the operating mode.

szafranek72 wrote:

Hello, after the last storms on the plot there must have been no electricity for a good dozen or so hours, as a result of which all the accumulated frozen fruit supplies for the winter flowed and froze again, in a word it became a frozen mush.

I became interested in the UPS to support the fridge in an emergency and I got here - I see that the main problem is not so much the ordinary power consumption, but the power needed to start the generator.

Here my idea appeared, but I am not a specialist - there are various types of soft starters for devices on the market, the ones I see are for brush motors and are used in angle grinders, vacuum cleaners, etc. - would something like this be used in a refrigerator unit? Maybe go in this direction to limit the start-up current than spend a lot of money on a powerful UPS?

I noticed that no one is replying to your idea, which is a pity, because it seems interesting.
Unfortunately, my knowledge of engines is negligible, so let's wait for someone to understand the subject.

The idea is completely wrong!
Reducing the current when there is not enough is nonsense!
A softstart would be a solution if the ups were to power a fan, i.e. a device with high, but constantly occurring resistance to motion.
The compressor motor draws current in bursts, not continuously.
With the rest, it is not known how the UPS automation reacted to the surge power consumption by the softstarter itself.
As I wrote earlier, the stiffness of the power source, not its continuous power, determines the possibility of starting the induction motor of the compressor. That's why the error is already in the title of the topic.
If the ups cannot, for various reasons, output a current greater than the LRA parameter of the compressor motor, then there is no point in approaching the fridge with such a ups.
RLA information can be found in the compressor data sheet. Of course, unless it is a compressor from the Far East ...

Definitely as Jack writes. Don't experiment, others have already done it. UPSs are no longer at some gigantic prices, and all kinds of soft starters also cost money and do not give anything.
Regards

This solution is terribly uneconomical. A 3000VA UPS is needed to start up, then the fridge works with 100W-200W. Nothing else can be connected to the UPS because you always have to have this supply. So 90% of the UPS remains unused.

Leszek K wrote:

It's a terribly economical solution. A 3000VA UPS is needed to start up, then the fridge works with 100W-200W. Nothing else can be connected to the UPS because you always have to have this supply. So 90% of the UPS remains unused.

I have exactly the same opinion on this subject, unfortunately it is not possible otherwise.

I bought a full sine inverter 1000W max 2000W. After connecting to the car battery, the fridge works fine. Regards