[Solved] Fridge UPS Power Requirements & Sine Wave Type: EVER 700 CDS Compatibility with Refrigerator

Hello. I bought a UPS EVER 700 cds with sine for the central heating pump and the furnace. The UPS has a power of 700VA or about 440W. The UPS is intended to be powered from the car battery in emergency situations. I am curious if it is able to keep the fridge freezer working. I do not know the exact parameters of the refrigerator because it is built-in and I do not have access to the rating plate. I have a fridge from 2015, so not that old, about 190 cm high. I would like to know if such a UPS has a power that, for example, can power several average refrigerators or maybe not one. Which option is more likely?

The second question is whether a full sine must be used to power the refrigerator, or maybe a modified one is enough?

440W is enough with a huge supply. The sine from the UPS should not cause problems.

dziechu wrote:

440W is enough with a huge supply.

How do you know that? Have you been to a fairy?
Continuous power is negligible. The key is the maximum instantaneous current possible to obtain from this UPS in relation to the starting current of the compressor motor.
It is not known what compressor the author of the topic has in the refrigerator.

If it is not an industrial refrigerator, but a fairly typical household refrigerator, even a large one, the engine power will certainly be much less than 200W. It is enough to search the Internet for the data of most refrigerators. The starting current of the motor also does not exceed twice the operating current. These are the parameters of refrigerators that can be found on the web. I do not assume that the fridge of the author of the topic differs from the typical ones by 2000%. A 440W UPS is able to deliver temporarily more power. Of course, without specific tests, there is no 100% certainty, but I don't think anyone here will make such specific tests with this model of UPS and this model of refrigerator, so you can only assume a high probability that it should be ok.

dziechu wrote:

The starting current of the motor also does not exceed twice the operating current

And where did you get such information?
How many compressor data sheets have you looked at?
I suspect ... zero.
Once you make the effort and download the pdf, look for the LRA parameter.

@Paszczak22 acc. you are on the borderline of the minimum UPS values. For a household refrigerator, assuming the refrigerator's energy consumption of 180 W, I assume the recommended minimum UPS is 1000 VA.

As you've noticed, I got the information from a fortune teller. It suits? And please do not leave me with wisdom such as catalog cards and mysterious, intimidating parameter abbreviations. If you like them so much, you can learn them by heart. Your taunts show not wisdom but presumption, if you understand the difference. I have been designing industrial electronics for over 30 years. The author of the question has both the listed UPS and the refrigerator and will check in 15 minutes if it works or not, without LRA and TUTURUTU. If necessary, UPSs have overload protection. You have contributed nothing constructive to the discussion.

freebsd wrote:

@Paszczak22 acc. you are on the borderline of the minimum UPS values. For a household refrigerator, assuming the refrigerator's energy consumption of 180 W, I assume the recommended minimum UPS is 1000 VA.

See, I thought I had a spare and would no doubt hook up a fridge over the holidays if the power plant refused to cooperate. The problem is that I watched a video on YouTube that shows the initial power consumption and it shows 1300W. I'm starting to doubt my UPS's ability to keep the refrigerator powered.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yzc4o1Bi9I

Added after 4 [minutes]:

But curiosity is eating me up and I'll do a test in a few weeks. I am proud of the results.

Make trials. The initial power consumption, e.g. 1300W, is only when such power is available, i.e. normally from the mains. The UPS will not provide such power, but it does not mean that the compressor motor will not start, it will just start less violently, unless the protections react at that time. In addition, a 440W continuous UPS can also provide temporarily more power. It all depends on whether the UPS protection will turn it off completely or only limit the current drawn.

Paszczak22 wrote:

I'm starting to doubt my UPS's ability to keep the refrigerator powered.

It's good that you have doubts. The chances that the compressor motor will start are. Slight, but still.
"Try with a fight" will dispel doubts, but it can .... end the life of your UPS.
To reduce the risk of failure, you would need to gather some information as I wrote above.

I've seen a few UPSs that ended their lives after powering refrigerators with them at the request of "designers" like "TUTURUTU".

Paszczak22 wrote:

I do not know the exact parameters of the refrigerator because it is built-in and I do not have access to the rating plate. I have a fridge from 2015, so not that old, about 190 cm high.

I suggest, however, to mobilize and pull out the refrigerator, if only to check whether the housing provides good heat dissipation from the condenser. The latter can take various forms. From the classic black "mesh on the tubes" to the completely invisible condenser building in the side walls. The latter is the most difficult to ensure good heat dissipation when the refrigerator is built-in.
The year of the refrigerator suggests (and does not provide) a compressor with R600a refrigerant with a relatively easy start or in the case of the so-called device. nofrost for more money even BLDC motor with small starting current. However, this is fortune-telling.

Paszczak22 wrote:

I watched a video on YouTube that shows the initial power consumption and it shows 1300W

I wonder how they measured it and where did this power come from???
As I wrote, the steady-state power is of little importance. The decisive factor is the comparison of the maximum to obtain for a fraction of a second, but still, the current from the UPS with the required starting current of the compressor motor (LRA). This is a borderline state. If it is not exceeded, the compressor will not start and the UPS may be damaged.

jack63 wrote:

I've seen a few UPSs that ended their lives after powering refrigerators with them at the request of "designers" like "TUTURUTU".

You are insanely experienced, just powering refrigerators from UPS is the most typical configuration in the world you live in. I have no such experience. I only know "wise people" who never did anything sensible because LRA didn't suit them. Each UPS has short-circuit and overload protection, but you probably haven't read it yet.

dziechu wrote:

I only know "wise people" who never did anything sensible,

You don't know me at all! You don't know what I did made sense or not. That's why you have no right to talk about me. Otherwise, your statements become personal attacks and mere trolling.
To bring the discussion back to the topic:

dziechu wrote:

Each UPS has short-circuit protection, overload protection,

Prove it, at least on one example, by presenting the UPS diagram, in this diagram the elements responsible for these protections and the analysis of the operation of these protections. i.e. When, how, under what conditions the given protection will not allow damage to the UPS.
Information on other UPSs would also be appropriate, or at least a solid majority (80-90%) of UPSs available on the market have such protection.
Without this proof your claims will only be "TUTURUTU" "designer" ignorant.

jack63 wrote:

You don't know me at all! You don't know what I did made sense or not.

You are absolutely right. I'd just like to point out that it was you who started with the "How do you know that? Have you been to a fortune teller?" You can speak on the subject, give advice, but try not to depreciate the comments or knowledge of others, otherwise you will get it yourself with a vengeance. When I write advice, I do not refer to other statements, especially in a cynical way. That's why I'm glad you're pissed, maybe it will teach you respect for others and show that you're not the smartest here. You defend yourself with the words "you don't know me etc..." and then you write to me "an ignorant designer" - no basis for logic and consistency. Either we will both respect each other, or we will be offended. I will skip the further continuation about the analysis of 80-90% of UPSs and presenting diagrams. Take care of yourself, not others. As for me - I really don't deal with UPS or refrigerators on a daily basis. I design and manufacture measuring devices, including those using spectrometry in the visible range, and I am the only specialist practitioner in this field in Poland.

Where's the proof of your claims??? For now, you are boasting about achievements that are very distant from power electronics, refrigeration, electric drives and everything related to the subject.
For now, you're having an almost effortless political discussion, not a technical one. The latter requires acquiring or exploring knowledge, i.e. effort that you cannot afford...

I see you want to be a conceited asshole to the end...

Moderated By retrofood:

A friend needs rest, so 30 days to cool down.

Paszczak22 wrote:

Hello. I bought a UPS EVER 700 cds with a sine for the central heating pump and the furnace. The UPS has a power of 700VA or about 440W. The UPS is intended to be powered from the car battery in emergency situations. I am curious if it is able to keep the fridge freezer working. I do not know the exact parameters of the refrigerator because it is built-in and I do not have access to the rating plate. I have a fridge from 2015, so not that old, about 190 cm high. I would like to know if such a UPS has a power that, for example, can power several average refrigerators or maybe none. Which option is more likely?

The second question, does it have to be full sine to power the refrigerator, or is it enough modified?

The pumps can handle it without any problems, while an ordinary refrigerator (motor without electronics) will not start you on it, the starting current will only cause the inverter, from what I remember, the yellow led will start blinking.

However, if you connect the refrigerator to this UPS and it will start on the network and then you will remove the mains plug, it will work, up to 200W this ever can run continuously with higher consumption it will overheat because it is not designed for continuous operation ....
Generally, this ever is very sensitive to current pulses, e.g. turning on the 90W laptop power supply turned it off, newer computers also turned it off.

I checked the starting current of my refrigerator. I even got a measurement when the compressor didn't start because I turned on the fridge too fast without the required delay between starts: https://youtu.be/EZaAiQkxHsY?list=PL_1sNvAafW15mW-d_NCFU1l31UhFfbh-6

freebsd wrote:

I checked the starting current of my refrigerator. I even got a measurement when the compressor didn't start because I turned on the fridge too quickly without the required delay between starts: https://youtu.be/EZaAiQkxHsY?list=PL_1sNvAafW15mW-d_NCFU1l31UhFfbh-6

Thank you for this test you did. I, as an amateur, do not have such precise equipment to be able to make accurate measurements. The current of 18A is a power consumption of about 3800W. That's almost ten times the power of my UPS. Do such results give a chance to run the refrigerator with my UPS? After obtaining such results, is it worth trying to start the refrigerator or is the risk of damage to the UPS too great?

I connected household refrigerators to UPSs (APC, Eaton) with the power of 1000 VA and 1400 VA. I have never tried to use a weaker UPS. Mainly because it is inconsistent with the theory, and this raised concerns about the durability of the UPS. I do not have such a UPS to perform the test, and if I had it, I would be concerned about it. I have more experience with large UPSs and short-circuit protection works there, and even in some models they are "extremely vigilant". Are smaller UPSs protected as well? Are all models? Will they withstand a large number of such overloads? I do not know.

There is a chance that it will be able to run and ensure the operation of one refrigerator, it depends on its power, because the power of the UPS should be not less than 10 * the power of the refrigerator, and I do not know whether it can be modified, I suppose it depends on the model refrigerators. If it has 10* the power of the refrigerator with the highest power, there is a chance that it will ensure the proper operation of several refrigerators or freezers with lower power. E.g . 1000VA continuous power UPS for 100W and 90W refrigerator. etc. because the refrigerators usually do not turn on simultaneously and the 10In current is consumed only at the time of start-up, i.e. when one 100W starts, there is still 900VA left to start and operate the 90W refrigerator. Well, it may be that both are trying to start at the same time, then 1000VA may not be enough.

Łukasz.K wrote:

can be modified

Yeah, another important thing. What effect will the lack of "pure sine" have on the compressor motor? With the appropriate power of the UPS according to the compressor in the refrigerator will start, but will it not overheat? What could be the consequences? How does it affect its durability? Maybe the fridge will just run frequently for short periods? Will this cause more battery current draw? This question is also not easy to answer, because when someone buys a device with more power, they usually try to ensure that it provides "pure sine" at the output.

it will run for the same amount of time unless it has something else instead of a compressor that transports energy from one side to the other. The refrigerator will probably heat up more, which will draw more energy from the power source, which will discharge the batteries faster.

Paszczak22 wrote:

freebsd wrote:

I checked the starting current of my refrigerator. I even got a measurement when the compressor didn't start because I turned on the fridge too fast, without the required delay between starts: https://youtu.be/EZaAiQkxHsY?list=PL_1sNvAafW15mW-d_NCFU1l31UhFfbh-6

Thank you for this test you did. I, as an amateur, do not have such precise equipment to be able to make accurate measurements. The current of 18A is a power consumption of about 3800W. That's almost ten times the power of my UPS. Do such results give a chance to run the refrigerator with my UPS? After obtaining such results, is it worth trying to start the refrigerator or is the risk of damage to the UPS too great?

From this ever there is no chance to start from the battery, I connected it to a normal "single-door fridge" 190cm polar, the power was probably 95W on a stopped engine, it took from a more powerful inverter max 880W and from a 76A battery it lasted about 15s and the thermal switch disconnected the engine.
Below 1000W, it's a shame to try, because even if you succeed several times, there is a high probability of failure because the refrigerator compressor does not even start from time to time on the mains and "heats the thermal" for several seconds, the inverter and the battery must withstand it.

I'm writing exactly what I'm asking for. For some time I have been interested in predicting the future and hedging myself against all possible black scenarios. The media write a lot about the fact that we have a power deficit in Poland and that an energy blackout is almost certain. Of course, Poland can buy electricity from other countries, but there may also be other reasons for the lack of electricity, such as trees breaking in winter for transmission lines. I started to analyze the situation and realized that without electricity in the winter I would freeze, so I bought a full sine UPS to connect it to a running car, if necessary, to drive the central heating pumps and the electronics of the furnace.
However, I began to wonder if on hot days when the network is overloaded, I am able to prevent the freezer and fridge from defrosting, of course, still assuming that the car will act as a generator while maintaining the appropriate power parameters. If I have to risk damaging the UPS, I prefer not to risk it and not check if it will pull. If the food in the fridge goes bad, it's hard, but I need an emergency power source in the winter, although I don't have any shortage of electricity.

Isn't it better to invest in a generator instead of Ups and a car? You'd probably have a more reliable power source.

A colleague is dramatizing about these thermals. If I hadn't written it, I wouldn't even have known that such a problem could exist, because my system with a 1500W continuous power inverter has been functioning for two whole summer periods, powering the fridge, freezer and sometimes the computer, and nothing has ever broken there, except that the fans in the inverter turned off used up.

Łukasz.K wrote:

because my system with a 1500W continuous power converter

What is the converter?

Sinus 3000 company Volt.

@Łukasz.K I will quote information about this converter: " KEY FEATURES: Voltage Waveform: Pure Sine ". Do you already know why mate @powgreg does not dramatize

Łukasz.K wrote:

about these thermals

, and why do you have no problems with powering your devices? Also, do you know that the problem isn't actually with the computer power supply you mention?

mychaj wrote:

Isn't it better to invest in a generator instead of Ups and a car? You'd probably have a more reliable power source.

The idea may be good, but failing. I've read a bit about aggregates on construction forums and people complain about their quality and good quality ones like Honda have cosmic prices. On the other hand, I can only guess how the generator is operated on the construction site. A good generator costs a lot of money, let's say from 1500 and up, while the UPS is hard to damage anything here if it is not overloaded, I gave PLN 80 for it without batteries because I will have power from the car battery anyway.