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Mondeo mk3 2.0 TDCI Fuel Pump Replacement Guide: CR Pump Removal, Timing Cover, & Tensioner

JasomiT 24222 7
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  • #1 16237386
    JasomiT
    Level 15  
    Hello, I have to replace the CR pump in the Mondeo 2.0 TDCI 130 km, October 2003 - I write in the event was needed.
    How to take it out?
    This is a popular problem, but somehow I can not find descriptions of this operation.
    Is it necessary to unscrew the entire timing cover to remove it?
    is supposedly a hydraulic tensioner, will you be able to take out the pump or somehow lock the tensioner first?
    Apparently the importance of setting the pump in relation to the timing is right?
    Can be done without much disassembly? For example, the front belt?
    Probably many people did it, I would ask for a description.
    If there is such a topic, please do not delete my ao link to that.
    Greetings.
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  • #2 16237523
    Jackall
    Level 27  
    You have to take off the lid, lock the tensioner, unscrew the wheel from the pump. Check the filter can, for filings. If they are, it is worth replacing the fuel tank with such one from a petrol tank, flush the fuel lines under pressure.
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  • #4 16237585
    JasomiT
    Level 15  
    Thanks, but when you pull the lid (tin shield) enough to unscrew the screws around her, do some motor cushions or something? because if you look it can be hard.
    And as with this pump, is it piston or vane? for a simple reason it's all the same as we put it on, but on some forum I've read that it does not just pause temporarily, i.e. it is like a piston, and that its setting has an effect on power?
    And if someone had a photo of the tensioner, what diameter of the tensioner to block the tensioner and where the shaft is blocking?

    Added after 12 [minutes]:

    Before I wrote, there was an answer, I am very happy that there is a possibility of taking a cover, and not the whole cover, but whether this instrument needs to be done, if it can be dealt with differently and with the setting of the pump.
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  • Helpful post
    #5 16252982
    JasomiT
    Level 15  
    I am after surgery so I will describe it to someone who will be useful.
    I found a description of activities on the mondeo forum but it was quite difficult to understand.
    We download vacuum pipes from solenoid valves and from egr, then unscrew the valves visible on the front, key 10.
    We take out the battery and unscrew the can from the air filter (only for better access)
    Unscrew the valve eg, in the top of the screw for the 7mm wrench (at least I do not know if it is always) and the pipe from the egr and the rubber air intake pipe and remove the egr valve.
    Unscrew the pipe from the egr on the other side of the pipe, i.e. near the exhaust manifold (after that we have removed the battery and the filter can)
    We unscrew the suction collector of the wrench 10, necessarily the extension cap, unless it is a tubular, wajchowy. attention to the extreme right screw, you need a thin cap or a tubular wrench because it is a bit tight and so typical, i.e. 1/2 "is too thick, we unscrew the sensor over the collector, I have no idea what it is from. We take out the collector and we have access to the pump.
    Unscrew the fuel line, high pressure, between the pump and the RC bar and turn off the two electric plugs.
    We unscrew the fixing at the pump to the block, i.e. from what I remember, two 10mm screws (maybe 8?) In the block and three in the 13mm pump (I recall the size of the key, not the screws) and loose the two screws on the 7mm pump, only loose, because there is a handle fastening to the engine is inserted under a different "plate" on the pump and will be easier to remove. But we leave one bolt in the block and pump, even loosely, just in case.
    Now the left side of the engine, i.e. unscrew the equalizing reservoir of the fluid and unscrew it to the right above the pump, we also unscrew the reservoir of support fluid to have better access.
    Next, we unscrew the pump mounting cover, if someone has the device, I do not have a key for a large grinder and screwdriver, this key has two protruding pins, one is inserted into the hole and locked with a screwdriver for the second and easily unscrewed, so I did and the possibilities are many, two nails and some wire are enough for stubbornness. I read somewhere to knock with a hammer, but I do not recommend it, it's plastic.
    We have a pump wheel in view. we set the wheel so that the hole between the four bolts, the ones closer to the center was at the first hour, they write to turn the key by the shaft, I punched the troika and pulled the car (I know, madness). now we take the key and the wrench? This is a T45 and we try through one of the three holes closer to the outer edge, spot the hole of the screw holding the pump to the block (the key must be the inlet diameter, i.e. there can not be a 1/2 "cap because it will not come in, I had a regular bent, but it just hit the right length from the old set, so you have to take it into account.)
    We unscrew these screws but do not unscrew them, they stay there.
    Time for blocking the gear, if someone has a blockade, you do not read it, in our case you should use three 9mm pins inserted in the holes through which we unscrewed the screws
    In this position, surprisingly, the chain is very loose, so it's all about keeping the sprocket in place so that the timing does not get over us.
    Next, paying attention to the wheel lock and controlling it, we remove the screws blocking the pump axis, that is, the four closer to the center, and we unscrew the rest of the fastening screws to the block.
    ATTENTION reminded me at the end. disconnecting the fuel lines, I read somewhere just to unplug the pump, but it was not so easy with me.
    I pulled out the flexible hoses near the fluid reservoircooling, a bit further, going on the wires, we have a handle, I unscrewed it, I loosened the steel wire at the pump and took it out with the pump, mainly because the elastic had some difficult latch that I could not overcome.
    Now the second note, please treat my description as information and I am not responsible for the consequences of doing this in this way.
    Regards, I would be happy if I could help anyone in anything.
    Any comments, write.
    Moderated By T5:

    Your topic may be helpful to others. We reward "Helped".

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  • #6 16253023
    T5
    Admin of Cars group
    Blocking the crankshaft and we have full professionalism.
  • #7 19882568
    Mariusz15031984
    Level 2  
    First, the sensor above the intake manifold is the camshaft position sensor. Second, it is not necessary to block the crankshaft as it is not a distributor pump. Besides, the bolts securing the gear wheel to the pump hub are not evenly crossed, one is offset. And there is no way to twist the hub in relation to the toothed wheel.

Topic summary

The discussion focuses on the process of replacing the Common Rail (CR) fuel pump in a 2003 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI. Key steps include removing the lid, locking the hydraulic tensioner, and unscrewing the pump wheel. Some users suggest that the entire timing cover does not need to be removed, while others emphasize the importance of proper pump alignment to maintain engine performance. Detailed instructions involve disconnecting various components such as vacuum pipes, the EGR valve, and the intake manifold for better access. The necessity of blocking the crankshaft during the process is debated, with some stating it is not required due to the design of the pump.
Summary generated by the language model.
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