In the crankcase, if vapors are not sucked out, oil will start to appear everywhere. So it's better to put the original on it should work, by the way, know that every single valve will have a minimum amount of oil flowing into the intake manifold. If there is no visible oil loss, I would not look for a problem.
Well, there is a loss of oil, but this is a problem of these engines. The valve wants to be replaced for one more reason, actually two that I did not write about earlier, namely as we know it is a turbo engine and in various places I have encountered statements that the original PVC valve has supercharging pressure loss because this valve does not hold pressure. The second reason is that this valve probably contributes to heavy contamination of the intake valves - https://www.google.com/search?q=tfsi+intake&c...sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjdhVYWBQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQQHQ 1280 & bih = 800 # tbm = isch & q = tfsi + valve + clean & imgrc = 1FlGBWeQDbX5eM: it looked similar to me last year. I wonder how my valves look like after a year of cleaning. I will only add that in these engines there is one more vent from the valve cover for the turbine - https://www.google.pl/search?q=tfsi+breather+...enovo&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved 0ahUKEwiZq_nB8fHRAhUFQZoKHUMYBUoQ_AUIBygB & b and = = 1280 & bih = 800 # = imgrc d9mFrHL-_Mt9QM:
As for valve heating, will they heat up anyway? This is unavoidable, but the fact can be kept to a minimum.
And as for turbo pressure and leaking pneumatic valve, even a small blow to the crankcase causes oil leaks from the cork, bayonet etc. So if these symptoms are not there is probably nothing to look for.
I also found such a drawing in the network https://www.google.pl/search?q=pcv+delete+kit...&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwhBQHQQ & isch = q + pVC + valve TFSI & imgrc = -m6fefVfgLQR_M :. I conclude from this that the original "PVC delete kit" will completely blind the exhaust gas from the engine? This is probably not healthy for the engine? I don't know anymore.
Added after 4 [minutes]:
szymitsu21 wrote:
You know the topic better than I do
As for valve heating, will they heat up anyway? This is unavoidable, but the fact can be kept to a minimum.
And as for turbo pressure and leaking pneumatic valve, even a small blow to the crankcase causes oil leaks from the cork, bayonet etc. So if these symptoms are not there is probably nothing to look for.
As for the crankcase, there is a large negative pressure, as when idle, remove the dipstick or oil plug, the car does not go smoothly and goes out
Well, there is a loss of oil, but it is a problem of these engines. The valve wants to be replaced for one more reason, actually two that I did not write about earlier, namely as we know it is a turbo engine and in various places I have encountered statements that the original PVC valve has supercharging pressure loss because this valve does not hold pressure. The second reason is that this valve probably contributes to a heavy pollution of the intake valves ... I wonder what my valves look like one year after cleaning.
Hello,
a colleague @szyitsu advises you well.
1) Oil loss = what oil (brand, class) did you fill and how often do you change? 2) Dirty valves = it's not just PVC and oil entering the intake manifold. It is also a problem of impurities accumulating in the manifold and on the valves resulting from oil imperfections in the charging system (hence they must meet the VW 504.00 class, and preferably 507.00 - low ash, low sulfur content, etc.). Fuel pollution also does its job.
Anyway, the problem of carbon deposits in the intake manifold is unavoidable! On average, it is assumed that for 120 tkm it is already certainty. Short distances shorten this mileage.
There are various methods for cleaning deposits of carbon deposits. Both mechanical and chemical. There is no perfect method.
It is worth - as your colleague advises there - to check the static position of the flaps (this is a sign of the problem soon).
At home I have a VW 2.0 TSI 170kM engine. From the beginning (still under warranty!) The first thing I did was change VW Longlife oil on Motul Specific 504-507 5W30 oil (504-507 are classes 504.00 and 507.00 VW). Since then, the oil has ended (and this was the case with Longlife VW) and for now (knock) keeps the level from exchange to exchange (every 1 year).
PS. Let it not be - I am not a seller or Motul oil booster. It is simply the third car in which oil of this brand is used (2 others after tuning). And I've never had problems with them.
Well, there is a loss of oil, but it is a problem of these engines. The valve wants to be replaced for one more reason, actually two that I did not write about earlier, namely as we know it is a turbo engine and in various places I have encountered statements that the original PVC valve has supercharging pressure loss because this valve does not hold pressure. The second reason is that this valve probably contributes to a heavy pollution of the intake valves ... I wonder what my valves look like one year after cleaning.
Hello,
a colleague @szyitsu advises you well.
1) Oil loss = what oil (brand, class) did you fill and how often do you change? 2) Dirty valves = it's not just PVC and oil entering the intake manifold. It is also a problem of impurities accumulating in the manifold and on the valves resulting oil imperfections (hence they must meet the VW 504.00 class, and preferably 507.00 - low ash, low sulfur content, etc.). Fuel pollution also does its job.
Anyway, the problem of carbon deposits in the intake manifold is unavoidable! On average, it is assumed that for 120 tkm it is already certainty. Short distances shorten this mileage.
There are various methods for cleaning deposits of carbon deposits. Both mechanical and chemical. There is no perfect method.
It is worth - as your colleague advises there - to check the static position of the flaps (this is a sign of the problem soon).
At home I have a VW 2.0 TSI 170kM engine. From the beginning (still under warranty!) The first thing I did was change VW Longlife oil on Motul Specific 504-507 5W30 oil (504-507 are classes 504.00 and 507.00 VW). Since then, the oil has ended (and this was the case with Longlife VW) and for now (knock) keeps the level from exchange to exchange (every 1 year).
PS. Let it not be - I am not a seller or Motul oil booster. It is simply the third car in which oil of this brand is used (2 others after tuning). And I've never had problems with them.
The oil I use is motul x clen 5w40, changing every year - oil losses are not great from replacing to replacing 1l to 2l I don't know how many kilometers I do, but I care more that there would be no loss on turbo boost than on clean valves (I can always I have already cleaned it once) and the loss of oil is not a big problem so far, I take into account that these engines have it. The question was regarding the plugging of the PVC valve what side effects and maybe some improvement? Anyway thanks for your interest in the subject.
The question was regarding the plugging of the PVC valve what side effects and maybe some improvement? Anyway thanks for your interest in the subject.
PVC is the venting of the crankcase ("discharge" of excess pressure from the box) so only blinding it is a bad pseudo-idea ...
These oil vapors must be discharged somewhere. If you do not want to the collector - as it is factory made - you have other external solutions.
Well, I thought that this is not a good solution, this plug (well, unless then everything goes with a second vent to the turbine) but I do not know. I can only see that a lot of people install this pvc delete kit, but most of them are abroad and there is nobody here to ask about experience with this product. I found this set in China for aliexpres below PLN 100 so I will probably order it, but if I mount it yet I don't know, I have to be sure that it will pass the exam without damaging the engine.
Added after 3 [minutes]:
szymitsu21 wrote:
And pro after the loss of recharging, I'm quite sure that you will not notice the change after blinding PVC. So there is no point (this is my opinion)
Probably you are right. I will probably give up on this subject as long as the original valve works. I thought that it might not improve the factory at a great cost, but probably not in this case.
Well, I thought that this is not a good solution, this plug (well, unless then everything goes with a second vent to the turbine) but I do not know. I can only see that a lot of people assemble this pvc delete kit, but most of them abroad ....
I supplemented my second post with a link - look for something like this.
Well, I thought that this is not a good solution, this plug (well, unless then everything goes with a second vent to the turbine) but I do not know. I can only see that a lot of people assemble this pvc delete kit, but most of them abroad ....
I supplemented my second post with a link - look for something like this. [/ quote
I have encountered these solutions seem to be ok except for one huge disadvantage - the price.
Welcome back. I don't know if anyone is interested but I already know what and how with this "pvc delete kit". Namely, the set I asked is not good because it is solved in such a way that all the vapors and oil after installing this set get into the intake system near the turbine which still equates to the siphoning of the valves, the manifold and there is also an intercooler and a turbo . The only right solution is like the colleague mentioned above - a set with an oil separator. The price of such sets knocks, but I think it can be done much cheaper (I have already started to create a similar set) oil separator can be bought for about PLN 100 for this hose of the band and a plate for the valve cover with 3 pieces - I make it from an old pvc valve - cut off from it a pear with a membrane and in this place I pasted 2 connectors for mounting hoses to the oil separator, I think it will pass the exam. Regards.
Welcome back. The price of such sets knocks, but I think it can be done much cheaper - I make it from an old pvc valve - I cut off a pear with a membrane from it and in this place I pasted 2 connectors for mounting hoses to the oil separator, I think it will pass the exam. Regards.
don't forget about the outer tube (catch tank), which shows the level of accumulated oil (you need to empty the tank regularly).
Hello again, I did such a thing https://zapodaj.net/eae9e4ed73a19.jpg.html noticeable changes are as if the engine worked more evenly. It cost me a bit of work and maybe PLN 150 works well. Best regards and thank you for your help.
The discussion revolves around the potential installation of a PCV delete kit for the 2.0 TFSI engine in a Golf MK5 GTI. The original poster expresses concerns about oil loss and contamination of intake valves due to the factory PCV valve. Responses highlight that while oil loss is common in these engines, completely blocking the PCV system is inadvisable as it can lead to increased pressure in the crankcase and potential engine damage. Alternatives such as oil catch cans and separators are suggested to manage crankcase vapors effectively without compromising engine performance. Users share experiences and emphasize the importance of maintaining proper ventilation to avoid issues with oil accumulation and valve cleanliness. Summary generated by the language model.
