Hello. I have a problem. Well, I have a car as in the subject, EGR and DPF have been turned off in the controller (EGR not blocked, DPF physically removed). The problem is that at idle heels gray / blue - the smell of exhaust fumes is pungent, after standing at idle, when I chase it away, it smokes for a while more intensively and then while smoking is invisible ... (video 1 - shows the intensity of smoking) . In the morning when it is cold, he has to turn for a while before he starts (Video 3 - but he was not after an overnight stop) Video 1 -
Video 3 - [Film: 18c528606f] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/50_1486371988.mp4 [/ film: 18c528606f] Additional information: - I started to add 2T oil to the fuel because, when I changed the filter, I noticed swarf, - Head gasket ok because I checked with a tester, - Permanent error: Charging solenoid valve: short circuit plus to ground (charging done for a short time), I suspect the valve because it is as if exploded ... but how can you physically check the + 12V valve? for example, disconnect from EGR and translate, and uplifts from negative pressure to clog ...? - Permanent error: Instrument cluster - Oil temperature info, the received value is incorrect (here I don't know what to do) - Can you see that the recirculation solenoid valve ratio is changing despite the EGR switch off in video 2 - is this correct? - oil in the intake piping (turbocharger or pneumothorax)?
Is it possible to judge from the above data that it is the fault of the injectors? I will be very grateful for all the information, comments and guidance, greetings.
Hello, wanting to honestly help you, I analyzed everything you wrote, and so .. 1. When you remove an egr, you shouldn't be surprised, it will always smoke a little. 2. All three hundred have problems with the oil sensor. Hard topic. 3. The expenditure is very high for you, I suspect a problem with injections. 4. It can be a turbocharger, the sealing may not give 100% efficiency, and it sucks in a little oil, hence the color and smell ... If you can't do it alone, let me know and I'll recommend you contact. Write what and how. Greetings.
Well, he wrote that DPF removed. Moderation begins with teaching about uppercase and lowercase letters or the lack of commas, and those who cannot read and provide information walk around the forum in the wild.
Dpf physically removed and also programmatically ??? If it burns heavily, check the glow plugs and see how quickly the pump builds up pressure in the tank. If there are filings in the system, unfortunately, give the injections to clean because the leaky overflow in the injection pump cannot build pressure. Two overflow test when firing it will be all known.
EGR and DPF have been disabled in the controller (EGR not blocked, DPF physically removed). Kopci gray / blue - the smell of exhaust fumes is biting, after stopping at idle, when I chase it away, it smokes more intensively and then smoking is invisible while driving ... (video 1 - shows the intensity of smoking). In the morning when it is cold, he has to turn for a while before he starts (Video 3 - but he was not after an overnight stop)
Additional information: - I started adding 2T oil to the fuel because, when I changed the filter, I noticed swarf, - Head gasket ok because I checked with a tester, - Permanent error: Charging solenoid valve: short circuit plus to ground (charging done for a short time), I suspect the valve because it is as if exploded ... but how can you physically check the + 12V valve? for example, disconnect from EGR and translate, and vacuum hoses ... - Permanent error: Instrument cluster - Oil temperature info, the received value is incorrect (here I don't know what to do) - Can you see that the recirculation solenoid valve ratio is changing despite the EGR switch off in video 2 - is this correct? - oil in the intake piping (turbocharger or pneumothorax)?
Provide engine year and power to be sure. Whether it is 2.0 HDI 110 HP DW10 ATED with air cooler ( intercooler )?
In my opinion, you should pay attention to the following:
1. Is the high pressure pump (pwc) still emitting? metal filings ? If you started to add oil to fuel 2T , in what proportion (is it at least 1: 100 )? Have you checked the effect after using this oil? It is not enough to pour 2T , but you need to systematically check the condition of the fuel filter, actually the bottom of the filter can for the presence of chips.
If you find the presence of filings, it means that you either use too low a proportion of oil 2T (Eg. 1: 250 , instead 1: 100 ), or the fuel system has not been flushed out after the previous swarf infestation.
Unfortunately, they do not disappear into space, nor do they dissolve, they only circulate all the way through transfers into the tank until it gets rid of it by physically washing everything in contact with the fuel.
2. There may be an issue with the above technical condition of injectors and as a result of their disturbed injection, release of pungent smoke from the unburned fuel by the cylinders in the initial heating phase.
From the video and screen view of the external diagnoscope, I conclude that injector 1 has a very high "minus" correction, exceeding the permissible 50% value. Means that this injector injects too weakly in relation to others. His correction often reaches over -3 mm3 / injection compared to others that have a "plus" correction.
This may indicate two phenomena:
1) The injector injects poorly because it has 2, 3 or five holes clogged with filings. Therefore, he does not give the full dose of fuel, but strongly reduced in relation to the needs.
This is related to the next operation of the computer, which still attempts to equalize idle speed by supporting the "lame" cylinder and injector with other injectors. For this purpose, it gives them more fuel than needed, hence the intense smoke at the beginning of warming up.
The idea of equalizing idle ( Smooth Runnig Control ( SRC ) is illustrated in the diagram below. I emphasize with emphasis, not to be confused injector correction (SRC) with compression, i.e. choosing "clearances" against different compression pressures in individual cylinders. Injector correction should be properly named cylinder correction . This explains the next section.
2) Cylinder with injector No. 1 has too little compression in relation to other cylinders. The compression pressure difference reaches above 30% of the normal state, which leads to the fact that this cylinder is "faster" due to the lower resistance in the piston movement.
The correction process then looks like the cylinder has revolutions 950 - 1000 rpm and are required 900 rpm . The computer therefore deliberately reduces the amount of fuel for injector 1 ("minus" correction), and increases for other injectors to help the "lame" brother ("plus" correction).
I remind you that the injector correction (SRC) works only for revs 1500 rpm . Above these revolutions, the computer doses equally to all injectors.
Conclusions regarding points 1 and 2 : To be carried out in parallel with the current parameter reading injector overflow test and cylinder compression test (checking compression pressure).
This is to exclude or confirm whether the injector or cylinder is to blame .
It is likely that the faults on the fuel side or cylinder side may be accompanied by another fault on the side EGR exhaust and / or air . So we create point 3 and further.
3. Someone rightly noticed, the fastest way to get rid of the problem is through physical plugging of EGR exhaust gas recirculation . This is shown in the figure below, where in place of the metal gasket with a hole can be inserted without a hole (red circle - position No. 3). It is worth trying a solid copper sheet of the greatest thickness, which is inserted, as the saying goes, "forever". I've inserted plates for at least 10 years in two places, i.e. apart from No. 3, also at the end of the radiator flange (2), at the connection with the intake manifold (4).
4. If it was FAP, it had to function as well air throttle (13 - picture above). It can also cause interference, leading to air shortage . If the flap inside the damper got stuck in the "slightly closed" position instead of "fully open", then I don't need to explain further ... It would be best to physically disconnect the pipe section with the damper and replace it with the original section without the damper. The same applies to vacuum control, i.e. the operation should be completely cut off vacuum on the throttle.
5. The most prosaic cause of all trouble can be unsealing or blockage of any section of air pipes . The following figure indicates the specific places for possible "leaks" or "inhibitions" of air causing disturbance in combustion type either too little air or too much fuel . Being in your place, I would try to get the points to start with 3-5 , i.e. the simplest and possible to make yourself. If you "clear" the problems on the EGR and the air side and the engine continues to fail, it is obvious that the reason is the fuel circuit, as discussed.
Thank you for your interest in the topic. Answering the questions:
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Power: 107KM, Start of warranty period: 01.2004, so it is an engine with intercooler, Vin: VF33HRHSB83329303
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Two weeks ago, I changed the fuel filter and noticed the swarf, then at the last refueling I added 2T oil in a ratio of 1: 100. I haven't checked yet what the bottom of the can looks like after using the oil, I'll do it at the next weekend. The photo below shows the number of filings that occur when replacing the filter. The next photo shows the type of injectors that are in my engine.
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Smoke (light gray) also occurs when the engine is warmed up to 80 degrees, idle for a while and starts to smoke,
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I did the transfer test, but I did not know exactly under what conditions it should take place ... Is the engine to be warmed up? How many minutes should the test last (specific time or until the graduates are filled)? I did it, it can be said in 3 phases in the first phase for a few minutes (I do not know exactly 1-3 min) Idle 800 rpm, then the revs were increased to 2000 rpm (and now I know that it is unnecessary) and finally the engine was running again idling 800 rpm to fill the graduated cylinders. But despite the above fact, you can still see the relationship that the first injector has a smaller amount of fuel than the others, I will only add that the test was carried out in 12.2016 and before the removal of dpf. Picture below.
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The test was also done by my colleague, a mechanic, he checked the compression, unfortunately, only two cylinders, on which the pressure gauge showed 27 bar. On the other two he could not wring out the candles because they are baked. And here is the question, how to unscrew the candles without damaging them when they are baked? Are there any home ways? I do not remember at the moment on which cylinders he performed the check ... as soon as I determine this, I will complete the content of the post.
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In the near future it will be done.
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If I remove the throttle completely, what should I do with the remaining vacuum lines and solenoid valve?
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Will be done shortly.
Choosing the recharge solenoid valve, which I probably fell, because as you can see in the photo below it is cracked and as if exploded (cleaning the interior did nothing) and there is a constant error short circuit plus to ground, can I buy some other look different, does it have to be identical? With the same numbers? Ew. since I have turned off the EGR in the software, I might suspect to use the EGR solenoid valve, but then there will probably be a constant error, the EGR solenoid valve is open - these are my speculations. Below is a photo of my current (probably damaged) solenoid valve. Thank you in advance for any hints. Greetings, radoslaw32
First note about editing: use the function "Quote" , not "Text" or another one if you want to quote. You can then see all the text, not just the slide bar, as in your case.
It is a pity that before you did not realize the "dry" fuel and did not start using a stronger oil concentration 2T . Unfortunately, I suspect the biggest trouble on this part. Nevertheless, don't give up because this engine is worth it. In my opinion, this is one of the best diesel units in the world due to its simplicity of construction (8-valve head with one camshaft) and very large excess power. It is economical, reliable and easily gains enormous mileage.
My pędzidło as in signature ( 2.0 HDI DW10 ATED 110 KM 2000 BOSCH INJECTION SYSTEM ) has been poured in nearly 450,000 and I have the impression that it is just spinning up ... However, you need to put a minimum of care into it, e.g. use the highest possible quality engine oil fully synthetic , listing it every year. Replace all filters as often as possible.
Try to make fuel as well "Fattest" to ensure safe lubrication against components operating under tremendous pressure 1350 bar . It is mainly about the high pressure pump (pwc), which is the direct creator of these pressures. If the fuel does not provide proper lubrication, then the pistons and cylinders ("precision pairs") rub against each other like sandpaper and sandpaper.
To a lesser extent, fuel greasiness is needed for injectors that are not sensitive to dryness, and most even to the smallest of contaminants. It should be mentioned that the fitting of their internal moving parts is a row of microns. If pwc starts to "sow" the swarf, they first get to the container and then to the injectors. This can cause that all 4 injectors will be destroyed despite their impeccable condition.
Returning to the subject, the matter is very simple when it comes to boost pressure regulator (7 - my drawing) and a throttle valve (13). The adjuster should be replaced with a new one. A support option is available from a mechanic or a parts store, i.e. temporary replacement for a functional solenoid valve and a test while driving on the street.
If the fault passes, you buy, if it does not pass, means that the old valve is good. You do not have to lose a lot of money, because the adjuster costs over PLN 500 at the dealership, and half the replacement in the online store.
As far as the throttle valve is concerned, leave the vacuum system intact, i.e. do not disconnect the vacuum hoses from the throttle adjuster (6), only dismantle it from the throttle side and plug the free connector on the valve. Then the vacuum system works normally, as there is no loss of vacuum due to a broken throttle circuit. In addition, the computer freely powers the controller (6) electrically, as if it controlled the vacuum and let it stay that way ... Doesn't bother anyone, right?
I emphasize with emphasis logical order of checks . First the simplest things and possible to do on your own. Only then the most expensive and requiring interference from a good mechanic.
As I said, being in your place I would try to stop the production of chips by pwc. For this purpose, I would pump the fuel from the filter can with a hand pump or a large syringe. Then I would carefully wipe the can of filings and dirt with a paper towel (not giving off hair!) Or an identical, white cloth. I would put in a new filter element, even though it was replaced yesterday. I wouldn't pour fuel pumped out of the can back even after filtering!
The next step, or rather, preceding the cleaning mentioned above, is flooding 0.5 liters of 2T oil such as the pictures below and adding fuel to the tank to reside in total 50 liters . As the fuel is used again, try to keep the 1: 100 ratio, i.e. refuel approximately 50 liters instead of 60 or 70 (after pouring 0.5 liters of 2T oil). Pour fuel into oil, not vice versa. I've been using the oil on the left for two years to my two CR brushes . Orlenowski, 2 times cheaper, I poured a few years before with very good results. However, it emits more dirt depositing on the filter and the fuel was turbid, although it did not bother at all. Oil shellowski does not smudge and does not cause fuel turbidity. So it's best for our engines.
It should be remembered that from now on fuel supply with oil 2T it lasts until the end of life of the engine and is as routine as breathing or drinking morning coffee ... Of course, the unchanging ratio is 1: 100. The smaller is too "weak" and the larger is simply unprofitable.
Final note : I don't know, have you had trouble since dismantling the FAP and emulating the injection computer? If, from the beginning, you had to deal with the disturbances in combustion in question, then the fault of the computer cannot be excluded. It has poorly selected injection dies and just simply keeps balancing the fuel dose in relation to the air dose, which should be perfectly balanced.
Then the idea of replacing the computer with the original one would not be out of the question boschowski or siemensowski without FAP (as it is with me).
However, if the system worked flawlessly from the time of modification, and only then troubles began, then of course you can not blame the computer, only the things in question.
It should be remembered that from now on, fuel supply with 2T oil lasts until the end of engine life and is as routine as breathing.
Let me ask you, if we pour 2T into the tank once, does it mean that we will have to pour it all the time?
And why do you think I wrote it for the eggs? It is obvious that since the currently offered fuel is "dry" (without sulfur in the factory as part of ecology), it will cease to be such once you have flooded it 2T ? I explained above, the "greasing" process must be continuous, round the clock, not one-time. Otherwise, why pour oil once?
I emphasize oil 2T we pour for protection high pressure pumps (Pwc). Because of its function, i.e. compressing fuel to unimaginable pressures, it must be carefully lubricated and cooled so that it never fades.
It is important to realize what a piston and cylinder mean, which has no rings, just like pistons in an engine. These are two pieces of metal rubbing against each other with incredible strength in order to spring the fuel to a pressure above 1000 bar. So we are dealing with a high temperature of mutually rubbing metals and the risk of "ripping off" filings from their own surfaces subjected to a huge friction force.
Fuel therefore has a triple role in a modern diesel engine: it provides energy combustion, cools and lubricates all friction and rotating elements in individual components of the injection circuit.
Not for eggs. Sorry for this question. It was actually stupid. He really feels like an idiot now. Returning to the topic, we all in the family refuel cars with fuel from the Kaliningrad region. We have a man who brings us 1000 liters once a month. This fuel is more fat than our Polish one.
After overflows you can see that the overflow valves in the injections are leaking and the injections with the pump must go to repair. Sooner or later it will end that you will have to give the whole set for repair. If there are filings in the system, all that had to do with fuel is to thoroughly flush the entire system, and the tank somewhere I heard that it fits with gas only I'm not 100% sure. You will not eliminate all filings from the tank, so I would not risk mounting it again after rinsing. And after this procedure is the sense of adding oil to oil.
Welcome back, I checked points from 3-5 as KotBury2 advised and there is no improvement. Heaps of smoke next. The external diagnoscope shows that the injector no. 1 all the time there is a large minus correction (E.g. today with a given injection rate of 6mm3 / injection, correction on injection No. 1 was -1.92 mm3 / injection. And the next injections had corrections on +, i.e. Injection No. 2: 0 , 04, No. 3: 1.22, No. 4: 0.59). My guess is that since injection no. 1 has a problem (clogged or the cylinder is not compressed) the other ones are watered to even out the work, and so can kicking occur? I want to buy a used injection and replace the discussed No. 1, only ... 1) Is it true that in Peugeots injections are numbered from the gearbox side, i.e. for me, Injection No. 1 is the first injection from the gearbox ...? Do I reason well? And if the diagnoscope shows me that Injection No. 1 has a problem, is it 100% the first injection from the gearbox side? 2) Can you recommend me a proven drug dealer? Or are you of the opinion that it is better to send them all for checking? Does anyone know the prices of such checking with professionals? What workshop do you recommend when it comes to checking and regeneration?
Thank you in advance for all your answers. greetings