Ford Mondeo MK3 2.0 Duratec AT - Maximum speed 2800. Throttling

Hello.
I will describe the problem I have been struggling with for two days.
Ford Mondeo MK3 2.0 Duratec automatic transmission. LPG sequence.
The car's engine suddenly stopped turning over 3,000.
At idle, it runs equally on gas and petrol.
It fires at the touch. the rotation does not wave.
Up to 3,000 it enters smoothly, but the more I open the throttle it starts to choke and jerk to the sides, then it drops from speed.
No MIL / Check lamp.

What I did or checked.

After diagnosis with the AutoCOM computer, zero errors. Spark plug wires, new replaced 4 months ago
Coil replaced with Original.
Egr clean and functional.
The MAP sensor is operational and cleaned.
The throttle position sensor inside like new.
The flaps in the collector were removed because they were already cracked, so I preferred not to fold them with them.
The emphysema in the block is cleared. The suction tube is new
Vacuum working.
Tank vapor valve blinded momentarily - no change!
Exhaust between the manifold and the angle unscrewed - no change
The bone for the driver has been checked with zero raid or moisture.
Compression pressure on cylinders 14/14 / 13,8 / 14
Any disconnection of the sensor throws its error, so the driver and the harness work correctly, I explain.
I exclude fuel pumps, injections, a rail with a valve because it is the same on LPG.
The only thing left for me was the crankshaft position sensor strange indications of the ignition advance angle and possible replacement of the controller and the automatic controller or some blockade that does not allow to exceed certain revolutions.
I am asking for some suggestions because if not, the car gives back elsewhere, because I almost lose my patience.
Regards Darek.

In a Ford with an automatic gearbox, when the selector stick is set to "P", the controller does not allow it to spin above 3000 revolutions.
Check if the computer sees the stick shift from P to D?
Only throttling does not fit here, because normally you should be able to step on the gas and it should smoothly screw into 3,000.
If the crankshaft sensor is damaged, you would rather not fire it.

MAP sensor- As importance in diagnostics
there may be a catalyst

wojtekcichy wrote:

In a Ford with an automatic gearbox, when the selector stick is set to "P", the controller does not allow it to spin above 3000 revolutions.
Check if the computer sees the stick shift from P to D?

What's this nonsense for? Why do you write if you don't know each other?

bsv2001 wrote:

MAP sensor- As importance in diagnostics
there may be a catalyst

But I do not have the error of too low effectiveness of kata or similar.

When it comes to the rotation lock at the machine, I would have a smooth rotation to 2,500 and it would hold nicely and it starts to tip and drop off the rotation.

While the candles are tinted black, they are dry.

@ Matylda_26 I had a Ford and the 4-speed CD4E gearbox is limited to 3,000 revolutions in the Parking lot.

will disconnect the catalyst
i MAP sensor- As importance in diagnostics at idle 320-340 - norm
200 .... or 400 ... problem

wojtekcichy wrote:

@ Matylda_26 I had a Ford and the 4-speed CD4E gearbox is limited to 3,000 revolutions in the Parking lot.

I dare say you didn't have a Ford or you can't read the tachometer.

Screenshot of the actual values after starting the engine a few minutes.

Link

Screenshot of actual values on hot engine

Link

On a cold engine to about 50 ° C, I have a strange ignition advance reading. 16382?
I don't know if it's an Autocom analysis error or something with the sensor.
I will replace the MAP sensor and shaft sensor today and see.
Shaft pulley with sensor crown checked.
No dents etc.
The driver sees the gear shift in AT

you need to do ignition advance test with oscilloscopes
There may be a problem with ignition advance

Today, i.e. yesterday evening, I checked additionally, replacing it

Candles - no change
Crankshaft position sensor new - unchanged.
New MAP sensor - no changes
Camshaft sensor - no change.
I set the timing to locks, it was maybe 2 degrees out - no change.

Today I will replace the throttle position sensor.
If it doesn't work, I take the driver to check and this will be the last thing I will do to find out the cause.

I will definitely write back as soon as I or another person determines what is wrong with this car.
Greetings interested in the topic

swap sensors - it makes no sense
You have to do everything manually:
1 Measure fuel pressure
2 Catalyst
3 EGR
4 throttle cleaning and adaptation
5 FSA 720- ignition
6 Crankshaft sensor-synchronization
7 air leak
8 .....
Ford IDS diagnosis

bsv2001 wrote:

swap sensors - it makes no sense
You have to do everything manually:
1 Measure fuel pressure
2 Catalyst
3 EGR
4 throttle cleaning and adaptation
5 FSA 720- ignition
6 Crankshaft sensor-synchronization
7 air leak
8 .....
Ford IDS diagnosis

Buddy bsv 2001 you do not read exactly what I wrote /

ad 1: Fuel pressure measurement - I wrote that it is the same on gas.
ad 2: Catalyst clean. The same on the unscrewed exhaust.
Ad 3: Clean channel, valve and properly functioning valve.
ad 4: The entire manifold and damper are washed. The only adaptation I heard about in this model with a cable throttle is disconnecting the battery for some time. battery connection. starting the engine and idling.
19% throttle opening at idle on a hot engine.
ad 5: I will ask for this station after other mechanics.
ad 6:?
ad 7: I think I'll go to the Ford and ask for a full computer diagnostics.

And with replacing sensors, it is the fastest way to act as they are identical on the shelf and you only need to plug in and you already know whether it is it or not.

Diagnosed fault.
One day I decided to take the car to an electrician. I get in, turn the key and try to start.
Does not light.
Characteristic sound of lack of compression when turning the starter. He was catching something on two cylinders but these were just such sneezes.
Compression measurement from 4 to 9 atmospheres.
Reasons:
Two, in fact.
Timing belt tensioner fully extended. No synchronization.
After inserting the camera through the candle hole, I found two delicate traces of suction valves on the 4th and 1st cylinder. Such thin croissants. Those who dismantle the engines know what I am talking about.
After removing the head, it turned out that the sockets and badly fitting exhaust valves were burned out anyway.
Generally a lot of carbon deposits and a very brown color of the engine inside.
The customer mentioned oil consumption and no leaks after stopping the car.
Engine for overhaul.
That's it, I greet all concerned.