JBL In-Ear Headphones Right Earbud Not Working: Diagnosis, Cable & Converter Check, Microphone

I warmly welcome.
My headphones refused to obey, unfortunately the right handset stopped working, and the warranty expired, which made it harmful for me to look at them.
So I took off the decorative "covers" from the pickups and here's what's inside:

I took a multimeter and there is a transition between the cables in both the right and left earphones. Would it mean that the converter is operational?
I also wrote how the transitions between the headphones to the 3.5mm 4 pin jack connector go - there is also a microphone there.

I would like to add that there is also a microphone on the left earphone cable on the way and it works. The law doesn't work
In general, the transitions are very strange.
I am asking for help and thanks in advance!

Usually, the cord is broken in the headphones, but not always. First, you should measure the resistance of the transmitters and make sure they are good. It may be even easier to connect the headphones to the music source and move the cable with the earphone not working, if there is a sound, shorten the cable a few centimeters and solder it to the converter. If not, then move the m.Jack plug in the same way, if there is a sound, we know that the damage is at the plug and then it should be selected or replaced.

Hello
The left earphone has no mass, the cable is probably broken.
Here you have pin layouts, you have this 4:

But it is good to unsolder the cable from the left, which has no transition to the plug and check it at 100%.

I desoldered and checked the transitions.
Now things are clearer.
Just like the colleague above
I don't think there is any weight on the right earpiece.

Hmmm.
Jack? Where to look for an interrupt?
P p
In the post, I think I confused the right with the left, I am already correcting it
Greetings
Ps # 2
Resistance:
Left: 15.2 OHm
Right: 15.1 OHm

A break will be difficult to find, usually at the most bent point in the cable or in a branch, or at the jack itself or the handset itself. If the cable is long, you can try to shorten it, I would advise you to start with the jack plug because here is the easiest way. Possibly changing the cord from other headphones.

Now, as I wrote before, you should locate where the break is, whether at the handset or at Jack's place. The measurement shows that the transducers are good.

If this damaged earphone sometimes played, you can try to locate it by connecting the headphones and moving the cable centimeter by centimeter to all sides where the problem is, you will hear crackling in the handset. Probably soon you will look for headphones anyway, I recommend one with an oxygen-free copper cable, which is practically indestructible in normal use (I have such sony headphones, which, despite the daily tight winding, continue to play perfectly for 5 years and do not stop). And non-perishable headphones are unprofitable for the manufacturer

Before taking the headphones apart, I was moving nothing.
Now I soldered the opposite. The converter is 100% efficient. Heheh, I put such a stripped handset in my ear: pi I started to move very hard as much as possible, I heard crackles and then music.
Now just replace the jack or try to repair this one: p
I wish I had moved harder earlier.
How to glue the headphones back? Hahahaha

There can be, for example, glue for plastic models with drop-type glues, you need to be careful because there are traces of glue.

It is better not to stick the headphones until you fix the jack, because later there may be a problem which cable to which pin. The jack can be repaired at a low cost by cutting the housing by soldering the cables and using a heat shrink tubing or gluing the old housing together, if possible.

That's what I want to do. I'll take care of it in the morning.
It is obvious that it will stick if they will work.
I'll start by ripping the jack and if not, I will buy something from the neutrica stable.
Thanks for all the advice given!

There are so many cables.
The right and left channels know where to solder, only where to solder the screen and the signal.
Checked with a meter.
According to I need to solder the screen as well as the weight from the headphones, and the white signal wire is a microphone?
I don't want to take the microphone apart.
I want to make sure everything is ok

Screen to ground. It is probably the microphone that can be checked with a dictaphone if it works. He's writing from the phone.

Now it's probably all clear, all the masses together, connect the L - R channel and the microphone (white wire) as previously presented by his colleague E8600 in the diagram of Jacek.

Well, unfortunately, the headphones to be thrown.
You could hear hum in one, soft clanking in the other.
Jack diagram for the third one, the mass was on the last ring. I wouldn't have sold it otherwise. It doesn't work anyway

You must have messed up something. First, you put in the diagrams that neither the left nor right has a transition to pin 4. By the way, there is no blue wire in any of the headphones, so it's not a mass? You don't have any button / potentiometer on your headphones yet? You had to check the transitions to the headphones before soldering.

I was checking the transitions just before soldering. And the blue cable was just connecting to the handset

I had no heart to throw them away
They were lying until today, I have been tired from 21
Everything works, tomorrow I'll tell you what and how Jack by sennheiser.

mati_323 wrote:

There are so many cables.
The right and left channels know where to solder, only where to solder the screen and the signal.
Checked with a meter.
According to I need to solder the screen as well as the weight from the headphones, and the white signal wire is a microphone?
I don't want to take the microphone apart.
I want to make sure everything is ok

I have the same problem, I cannot locate the soldering of the cables to the jack, I have the same colors, maybe someone would suggest

I opened my jack - I didn't see much, the meter won't catch it either because I smeared everything with nail conditioner / clear varnish, a good patent because the short circuit will not do and it holds everything until today, just do it after testing.
It's good if you have a meter and compare - jack sennheister this is the type 4 - you have above in the post.

According to for me it should be like this:



Let me know if it works - carefully with the soldering iron - before soldering, measure the cables "dry" and cut them properly. Stock up on rosin, tweezers and something to hold a jack. In addition, a magnifying glass and good light.
You touch the colored cables with the tip and "boil" in rosin until the substance, which is the covered cables, evaporates - it will smell, smell a bit. You tin the cable covered with rosin. Don't feel sorry for the veins - take longer veins to nail them and then cut them to the right length - nail clippers work here.

Before soldering, put the unscrewed part of the jack on the cable - because then there is linden. Good luck Let me know how it went.

@Edit



This is what it looks like Greetings.