Effective Gluing Methods for PP-GM40 Polypropylene Reinforced with Fiberglass Under PLN 20

As in the subject, I need to glue the element with the designation PP-GM40. From what I learned, this mix is not suitable for welding, so all that remains is gluing, which can also be a problem. So I would like to ask for some advice, it can be glued effectively for decent money (say around PLN 20)?

Cyanoacrylate or epoxy adhesives. What exactly is this element?

Golf III front belt. I noticed a fairly long crack (about 6 cm), and as I had already dismantled everything, I would like to secure it so that it does not shatter completely.

There are some effects given by sticking a patch made of glass fabric soaked in epoxy resin.

Hello,
I don't know if it's the same material, but last year I resuscitated my son's broken rear bumper on Golf 3.
I cut a few pieces of wire about 2 mm in diameter from old spokes from the bicycle. Then I bent them slightly in the form of a broken line, so that in the event that the forces do not act along the wire, but also at an angle. I arranged the bumper so that the edges of the crack touch. Then I heated these pieces of wire with a heat gun and melted them into the plastic, from the inside, of course, taking care that they did not pass through. Then I ran it all from the inside with a wire brush and for the sake of peace I put on a two-component putty containing glass filings (ready, bought in the "corner store"). I should somehow put it on the outside, sand and paint, but we came to the conclusion that it would be an operation comparable in price to the value of the whole car.
For now, it holds completely correctly.

Regards

It is welding ... You need to heat, lengthen the fiber and melt the hard PP strip firmly. From both sides.

kortyleski wrote:

It is welding ... You need to heat, lengthen the fiber and melt the hard PP strip firmly. From both sides.

In a nearby company dealing in plastic welding, I heard that they do not recommend doing it, because in their experience it does not stick too well later. I will not be patting the kilometers to look for a welder who would do it, so welding is ruled out ...

This can be done with a hot air. And pp is such a jersey that no glue will catch him well

Colleagues and glue for gluing water installations. Once used more often, tubes and fittings were lubricated with a cotton swab that was attached to the cork. Recently I bought such glue and it is available in building warehouses. But you have to check because I can only tomorrow what he glues. Maybe some plumber will speak. Regards. And I already know this glue what I wrote is PVC-U and PVC-C glue, so it probably won't work.

robokop wrote:

Cyanoacrylate,

Yes, but not alone! Polyolefins are extremely mean to stick.

slawek str wrote:

j for PCV-U and PCV-C so it probably won't work.

Will not. PVC glues very easily and completely differently than PP.

DollarMan wrote:

that they don't recommend doing it because in their experience it doesn't hold up well later.

Truth. It will help a bit, but after a few kilometers it will fall apart. Not because it was badly done, but because it is PP.

kortyleski wrote:

And pp is such a jersey that no glue will catch him well

That was 10 years ago. Using good cyanoacryl with a good activator, PP is bound very strongly. I recommend Loctite 770 (primer) and Loctite 406 (glue). A well-made joint will not break. The primer cleanses and expands the polypropylene surface, thanks to which the adhesive better moistens the surface. Thanks to this, the weld has the ability to bind the material. Unfortunately, the price of it is high, I think that gluing may prove unprofitable.

robokop wrote:

There are some effects given by sticking a patch made of glass fabric soaked in epoxy resin.

But for a few moments. No resin catches polyolefins because it just doesn't wet them. It freezes on the surface and when the joint loses its viscosity, it falls off.

telecaster1951 wrote:

But for a few moments. No resin catches polyolefins because it just doesn't wet them. It freezes on the surface and when the joint loses its viscosity, it falls off

Ekhm - read about it PP-GM40. It is a "dry" plastic due to the fact that it is actually a fiberglass, polypropylene bonded. It can easily be patched and glued.

I realize. The binder in this case is the problem. I do not doubt that you can glue it, because there is such a possibility, but the person who has never done it will not make a permanent resin bond. I have already seen a specialist who glued such materials. After some time, the glued element fell off, pulling the rest of the material with it - the adhesive bonded to the glass fiber, completely falling off from the binder. The guys at my workplace patch such composites by embedding them in the structure of reinforcing bars, then strong matting of the surface and a glass mat with resin - this is from below. On the aesthetic side, they use the aforementioned cyanoacrylate. After painting, there is no trace and the element is stiffer than factory.
Forgive me if you felt hurt. This was not my goal.

I managed with a little help from the riveter, thank you for all the helpful answers.