FAQ
TL;DR: Eneloop Pro AA retain 85 % capacity after 1 year (Panasonic); meanwhile, “NC-1000 is my favorite” [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266] Pick single-slot smart chargers (NC-1000/3000) to avoid hot, under-charged pairs and extend battery life [Elektroda, grzegorz041, post #16311439]
Why it matters: The right charger adds years to cells, saves money, and prevents dangerous overheating.
Quick Facts
• NC-1000 adjustable charge current: 200–1000 mA in 100 mA steps [NC-1000 Manual].
• NC-3000 adds internal-resistance test (20–200 mΩ range) [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266]
• BC-700 default current 200 mA; street price ≈ PLN 80 [Elektroda, mlero, post #16580771]
• Some no-name AA claim 3000 mAh yet measure <300 mAh—10× lower [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313490]
• Eneloop Pro AA 4-pack costs approx. PLN 60, rated 2500 mAh LSD [Panasonic Datasheet].
1. Why use a processor (smart) charger instead of a simple timer model?
Smart chargers monitor voltage, temperature and −ΔV, stopping at full charge, so cells last hundreds more cycles. Timer units ignore battery state, often boil one cell while undercharging another, shortening life [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313555]
2. BC-700, NC-1000 or NC-3000—what’s the key difference?
BC-700 is older, limited to 200/500/700 mA and uses a 3 V supply; measurements are only moderate [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266] NC-1000 is smaller, ends charge with textbook −ΔV, but accuracy ±5 % [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266] NC-3000 adds resistance test and ±1 % readings, yet is bulkier and costs ~40 % more [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266]
3. Is the MH-C9000 worth paying extra?
For most users, no. Its algorithm ends charge earlier than BC-700, despite higher ±1 % meter precision; price is 2-3× BC-700 [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313266]
4. What current should I select for AA and AAA cells?
Use 0.3–0.5 C. On NC-1000 the default 500 mA suits most AAA and AA; currents below 200 mA can cause never-ending charge on high-capacity AAA [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16673438]
5. Can pair-only chargers really damage batteries?
Yes. They treat two cells as one pack. If capacities differ, one cell overheats >20 °C while its twin stays under-charged, accelerating sulphation and loss of capacity [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313555]
6. How do I revive old Ni-MH with the Refresh cycle?
- Insert cells and choose “Refresh” (or “Break-In”).
- Charger performs slow charge, full discharge, then gentle recharge.
- Repeat 2–3 times; capacity often recovers 5–15 % [Elektroda, grzegorz041, post #16676033]
7. Which batteries are best for toys and remotes?
Pick low-self-discharge cells around 2000 mAh (AA) or 800 mAh (AAA). Everactive, Fujitsu, Ikea Ladda and standard Eneloop hold charge for months and cost under PLN 10 each [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313490] Rechargeables are uneconomical for TV remotes changed yearly [Elektroda, rafbid, post #16854951]
8. Why does my NC-3000 show higher charge than discharge capacity?
Display shows input to cell during pulses; discharge shows usable output. Heat and internal resistance waste 8-15 % energy, so readings differ [Elektroda, mlero, post #16802241] "Losses are normal," notes HKJ’s test lygte-info. Values within 15 % are acceptable.
9. What temperature rise is normal while charging?
A clear temperature lift at the end—cells feel warm (≈45 °C) but not hot—indicates full charge. No rise suggests termination too early; scorching hot (>60 °C) implies overcharge risk [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313555]
10. Are 3000 mAh AA cells advertised online real?
No. Laboratory tests find many deliver only 200–300 mAh—10 × less than the label [Elektroda, SPEAKERS_XP, post #16313490] Stick to brands quoting ≤2600 mAh for AA.
11. My NC-1000 won’t start on fully-dead cells—what now?
Slots need about 0.5 V to detect a battery. Pre-charge two minutes in any dumb charger or in a flashlight, then retry; detection succeeds [Elektroda, Pemek, post #16805167]
12. Should I fully discharge Ni-MH before storage?
Store at 40-60 % charge in a cool place. Fully flat cells may reverse during self-discharge; full cells lose capacity faster [IEC 61951-2]. Recharge every 6 months.
13. Can I build my own AA/AAA charger instead?
Possible using ICs like MAX712 or TC675, but you need thermal sensing, −ΔV logic and independent channels. Buying an NC-1000 costs less than sourcing parts today [Elektroda, Freddy, post #16854825]
14. What’s an edge case where NC-1000 fails?
Early NC-1000 Plus units ended discharge in slot 4 at 1.17 V instead of 0.9 V, giving 20 % low capacity readings; warranty replacement fixed it [Elektroda, mlero, post #16580771]
