Bosch SMV50E30EU Dishwasher Door Leakage: Assessing Gasket, Propellers, and Water Level Sensors

Hello
Bosch SMV50E30EU dishwasher is leaking through the door. The dishwasher works normally in all programs only water dripping from the door. It started dripping after cleaning the dishwasher thoroughly. What I checked: the lower and upper propellers are in working order, with no signs of cracks or leaks. Water jacket cleaned, drainage pipe is blocked. The lower seal in the door has a slight tear in the rubber, i.e. it is not transported, only the rubber is slightly torn. Reading the forum, many people say that it is not the fault of the gasket because after replacing the gaskets, the problem of water leakage through the doors remained with them.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1940153.html#9268143
or here
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1101732.html#5557326
So I do not know whether to buy a new one (cost about PLN 130) or look for a fault further. I wonder if this model has a hydrostat or a water level sensor that will turn on the pump when there is too much water.
I am asking for suggestions to solve the problem.
ps when I cleaned the water jacket, I poured the remaining water from the dishwasher, among others in the salt reservoir and a little at the pumps to the level of the water turbidity sensor. After installation, I ran the 45-degree program and after it was finished, when it turned out that it was leaking again, I checked the salt container and it turned out to be empty, i.e. without water, and here I have a question, is it normal?

Pull out the gasket. Thoroughly clean put into place, check that the door is not mowed. Check if one of the lines responsible for closing the door is not damaged

As you wrote, the leakage began after thorough cleaning, so if I were you, I would check the water level, i.e. after filling and opening the door, nothing should pour out. The flow meter is responsible for the water level

https://north.pl/karta/plytka-przeplywomierza...arki-bosch-smv50e30eu-01,PXK-L5-ZMMT-V6E.html

Thanks for the hints. The cables and springs from the door are good with no signs of wear. As for the flow meter, I will check during the washing process if the water level is appropriate. However, it would be a bit strange if it was the fault of the flowmeter. Because with thorough washing, with the water jacket, I did not rummage and there is a flow meter.

I think I found the culprit who might be a contractor. After applying the meter, it shows the connection all the time. After applying the magnet, it works fine for a while and then it fails again. The question is whether there are different reed switches? Mine is a glass ampoule with a blue stripe on one side.

Usually, the reed switch has open contacts, which are closed when the magnet is brought closer to each other.
remanence changes the contact under the influence of the field

I don't know anymore how it should be with this contract. I replaced the contractton in the flow meter. It has open contacts. When I put the plate into the flow meter, the magnet worked and the contacts were shorted. Only when water begins to flow through the flow meter does it open. Is it okay? Should it be the other way around In the idle state, the opening and short-circuit of the contacts during the flow.
I do not know what is the reason that my house is leaking all the time. The propeller is checked several times and they are good. While washing, I did not observe a high water level in the dishwasher. So the cause of the water dripping is unknown to me

A reed switch without a magnetic field is interrupted by a short circuit. The magnet in the dishwasher is a series of magnets and as the water flows, the magnet rotates and gives a series of impulses. The electronics count these impulses and thus knows how much water is in the dishwasher.
You have to see how much water the dishwasher draws as the door leaks up to half the salt plug.
If the dishwasher takes too much water, the reed switch may lose pulses or the magnet jams.
The reed switch must be inserted properly, not anyhow, because it will work badly.

Again. You write that it is leaking from under the door. Are you absolutely sure of it, are there any traces, streaks, or just you think. Does the door close properly, is it leaking in the middle or from one side? What is the water level in the dishwasher when it starts to leak?

I will write again from the beginning. A leak under the dishwasher door appears after at least 10 minutes of operation (air vent?). The leak is definitely through the door in the dishwasher. The leakage is not large but very annoying (water max half a small glass). When the door starts to leak, when I open the door there is not much water inside, a bit at the bottom. The door closes well, i.e. it is not distorted. Contracton replaced and fitted into the hole in the plate to be as close as possible to the magnet in the flow meter. Note on the side. At first I thought that the dishwasher was crooked, so I adjusted my legs and depending on which side I lifted up, this side was leaking. Coat cleaned, drain hose blocked.

The water level is good, the reed switch is working, you need to check that the lower arm is turning and that you have good venting on the side of the dishwasher, but venting may not work properly only when the water is heated. Sometimes there is felt inside the bottom of the door and it drips poorly. Sometimes it is worth removing the front door, so you can see why the water is overflowing.

The dishwasher is built-in. During work, she was pulled out of the building. The cover plate and felt have been removed from the dishwasher. Very dry felt. You can see white raids after water leakage on the tray. So I am 100% sure of the leak location. In addition, I was removing the furniture board from the door to clarify the leakage location. It is strange that this dishwasher has a water capture system if it was leaking with a seal but the plastic gutters are dry and it runs sideways . I don't know how to check if the arms are spinning, because when the door opens while the dishwasher is running, the arms are already standing.

tight, transparent, hermetic vessel (e.g. a large jar) inside a properly positioned cell with the camera and lamp turned on (maybe even an older model) / possibly a different flashlight so that the light does not reflect off the glass / ..... do you need to explain further?

Thanks for the idea of checking the operation of the arms in the dishwasher . It seems to me, however, that the arms in the dishwasher work well because I remember when the dishwasher was pulled out and working, the sound of the water jet hitting the walls was cyclical. However, I was more interested in the defect I read somewhere, that when the dishwasher is running, more pressure is created and it squeezes water through the seals. A malfunctioning vent may be to blame? or something else. The dripping water symptom appears after the dishwasher has been running for a few minutes. Yesterday the dishwasher was working again (a short program at 45 degrees) and at the end of the washing cycle, it was probably the third time that water began to leak through the door . I have a question how to check the venting of the dishwasher. I would like to add that the water jacket is clean (I'll try to take a picture today). The second question with the rinse aid dispenser is there a channel or is it also venting because it was dirty, but it seemed to be obstructed?
One last thought for a dishwasher as it is with water hardness and a possible fault. Apparently, salt added to the dishwasher supports the process of water softening. What can happen when it is not given systematically, only from time to time when it is remembered. For me, the water is very stony.

Salt is used to regenerate the filter responsible for removing limescale from the water.
The lack of salt means that the filter stops descaling the water. Limescale is deposited in the entire water system, in the coats in the pipes, it clogs the channels, even the fan nozzles ...
In addition, when the user usually washes at low temperatures, grease is also deposited in the system. A white goo is formed that clogs everything.
SALT always regularly.
Frequent washing at higher temperatures.

The sound of hitting water does not mean anything because there are 2 arms 1 is standing 2 turns and makes a sound. I have already written about the deaerator. Due to the lack of salt, nothing will happen, my dishwasher has been working without salt for 12 years and everything is fine. I do not use salt because our water has very little calcium.

Quote:

Due to the lack of salt, nothing will happen, my dishwasher has been working without salt for 12 years and everything is fine. I do not use salt because our water has very little calcium.

Only if the water is soft.
With all due respect to the previous speaker, but this type of judgment "because nothing is happening to me" can be very misleading to users.
Really where the water is hard or very hard, using salt is absolutely essential.
I did a lot of repairs for the reasons described in the previous comment.
The failures concern the saturation of coats, cables and hydrostat (especially in Bosch and Siemens) as well as flow meters, heaters and other accessories in many models of various manufacturers.

Although this does not apply directly to this topic, I will mention a situation where the client has started to leak water after thorough cleaning.
The customer was so keen on cleaning that he unscrewed not only the salt cap but also the cap under the cap. Unfortunately, he didn't tighten it later and he couldn't find the cause of the leak, but there the leak was on the left side of the dishwasher, behind the water jacket, not under the door.