Fish Hunter Bait Boat Spinning, Unresponsive: Graupner, Turnigy 9, FRSKY, Toslon 640 Sonar Issues

Hello colleagues. I need your help. I have a bait boat. Made by me. Fish Hunter hull. Graupner regulators. Graupner Brush Motors. There are 3 996 servos. A Toslon 640 sonar is attached. Turnigy 9 set with FRSKY transmitter and receiver. What's the thing? I had this problem after the whole modernization and I thought it would be ok. So. When I turn on the transmitter and the boat it is ok. It doesn't matter after what time, but the boat starts going crazy. It does not react to the apparatus. Spins in a circle. The groundbait flap opens. Or it just stands still and doesn't react to anything. Then after 1 minute it starts to function normally and after some time the same again. It doesn't matter how far the boat is. It was 1 meter from me. As well as 150 m. I am asking for some help. What could be wrong because I have no more strength. Thank you and best regards.

In boats, the receiver should be in a sealed housing and the hatch of the boat should be opened after swimming to evaporate the moisture.
Perhaps you have the receiver not paired properly with the apparatus or the electronics are damaged.
Without testing and measuring individual components and visual inspection, it is difficult to say what the cause is.
Try to replace the receiver if possible.

Hello. I also have the original Turnigy receiver and transmitter. But it also behaves the same on him. The receiver is attached to the top of the boat at the rear. But it's not tightly closed. There is no water in the center. Should I close the receiver tightly? 4 years ago when I built this boat it was all ok. Only the nape flap was a pain. Then, after the modernization, the hatch closed and opened on the servos of the 996 and the stairs slowly began. Now I have a flap on 2 servos that open and close the flap. And when I turn on the equipment and the boat, the 2 servos from the flaps start to wave slightly and then the boat starts going crazy. Adds a picture of the lapel. Could the servos be the cause. I have already checked 6 and the same for all of them.

The reason may be the servos, and more specifically the overload resulting from the current consumption.
The receiver probably allows a load of up to 1A (what is happening - to be checked if you disconnect the servos from the flaps for the test).

Hello - servos heavily load the BEC (in the controller), that's why such things happen-
1 PAWEL is right.
It would be possible to power the servos themselves from a separate power supply (BECA) only the control itself
leave as it is now.

OKAY. I will come back from work are separate servos. If it is ok after unfastening, it means that the cause are servos. How to separate them from the receiver but that they work because they have to open the hatch for me. What other power source to connect. Oh one more thing. When the icebox starts to go crazy, after turning off the equipment, it continues to go crazy, which is not the equipment as I guess. Will I be able to connect the servos themselves to a separate lipo package?

Hello - please write what regulator do you have (Graupner - what type) and what battery?
You can power the servos from a different battery or the same but via UBEC.
http://radio-modele.pl/bec-5-12v-3-6a-do-fpc-1-2g-5-8g,383,26345.html

LiPo package, you probably have 7.4V or 11.1V directly, there is no such possibility to connect the servos via https://abc-rc.pl/BEC-UBEC-uklad-zasilania.
If the boat goes crazy after turning off the equipment, it is inactive or it is not fail safe https://www.gimmik.net/blog/funkcja-fail-safe/.

Maybe start by showing your equipment and describing its connection.
If the boat is swimming and suddenly going crazy and recovering again, it would indicate a problem with the receiver or transmitter.
Maybe it's worth checking the antenna connections. And then do dry tests, up close and at a distance.
I don't know what Graupner's transmitter you have, but some models have a built-in low-range test - the function drastically reduces the transmitting power, which allows you to simulate and test at the limit of the range at a short distance.

I would start with replacing the receiver and check how it behaves.

Servos can be a problem, but in this case it's a bit of a blast. If it were the fault of power efficiency, the problem would emerge immediately, not years later.

First of all, check the antennas and receiver.
The easiest way is to simply replace the receiver with a new one. After the attempt, you can return it or keep it as a spare. You can also find a modeller in your area with a similar receiver and ask him to help you check the equipment.

Hello. I got home and cranked the boat to take pictures of what I had. I did everything myself and I'm not a professional. I must also point out that from the moment of converting the groundbait flap from the bolt on the servos to a rather complicated mechanism, it was then that the stairs began. But somehow I struggled with it. 2 months ago I started building it from scratch. I bought a new frskya DJT receiver and transmitter. D8R plus. Earlier the receiver was a Hobby King hktr6a V2. Turnigy RF9X V2. I have Graupner Profi Speed 40A regulators. 2 gel batteries 6v 12ah. These 2 servos for opening the hatch are connected on a dual rate cable. 600 Brush Motors. I separated the lighting with lipo. The camera is also on lipo and Echo Toslon 640. My photos are included. Thank you very much for your help. Maybe I can do something about it because I'm losing my strength.

Tell me what photos you still need. Best regards.

The equipment and the receiver should have protection in case of signal loss,
fail safe has such a function that even if you turn off the apparatus, nothing should happen with the boat no signal the boat is standing.
A separate fail safe security component can be purchased.
It remains to check the operation after disconnecting the servos from the flaps.
And whether the servos have too much resistance to jamming when opening the flaps.

In my case, even when it starts to go crazy and I turn off the apparatus, it does not change anything. He still does what he wants. Then I just have to wait for it to stop. So now disconnect the servos and check the leek, nicely over the water. And if after unfastening it will be ok what then. I need these flaps. Now that it is painted and holes are made and they are quite large, how to avoid it to make it good?

Added after 3 [minutes]:

And the flaps go without any resistance. When I release them from above, they fall to the very bottom.

For now, check without the flap servos connected, and that the flaps do not have any resistance to movement.
You can test dry without flaps, preferably outdoors,
you will check the operation of the general controls.

Krzysiek Willy wrote:

And the flaps go without any resistance. When I release them from above, they fall to the very bottom.

Ok, it's good that the mechanically flaps work well.
Do the servos, when closing the flaps, are at rest, do not try to close.

If possible, repeat the binding and calibration of the throttle stick.

For the description link http://rc-fpv.pl/viewtopic.php?t=21694

Hello to you. I didn't speak for a while, but I ordered a Turnigy 15 and just installed it today. The servos have been separated. When turned on, they no longer wave. The dry attempt was successful. The day after tomorrow I am going to the water. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP. I will write how the test on the water happened. I greet everyone.

The power pack is some thin 7.4V capacity?

Thank you for all your help. topic resolved. separating the service on a separate security office. perfect. thank you. topic is closed

We wish you more fishing, nice rest by the water and such fish.