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Photovoltaic + heater. Power selection of panels and other components.

philips89 52320 31
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What PV panel power, heater, and controller should I choose to heat a 100-liter domestic hot water boiler directly from solar panels?

Direct PV heating of a 100-liter boiler is possible, but the thread’s consensus is that it is not the cheapest solution; if minimum cost matters, solar thermal collectors are cheaper, while PV only makes sense if you accept higher upfront cost or want a broader system [#16339457][#16338031] For a 100 L horizontal tank, the practical estimate is about 1.2–1.5 kW of PV as a minimum compromise, with around 1.5 kWp often suggested; 0.6 kW is far too little and would need roughly 4 hours at full power to supply the heat [#16338031][#16348108] Use an MPPT/solar regulator that holds the panel operating point instead of simple cascade switching or direct connection to a 230 V heater, because switching heaters caused voltage spikes and poor results in the example build [#16345900][#16346496] Match the panel string voltage to the heater resistance so the heater draws the intended power near MPP; one contributor warns specifically not to run with 230 V at the power point because open-circuit voltage can rise and damage loads [#16345900] A real working setup described in the thread used 12×180 Wp panels (2160 Wp total), about 212 V MPP, a 2500 W MPPT regulator, and a 3 kW heater in a 100 L horizontal boiler, delivering hot water from March to September [#16346496]
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #32 16352146
    idepopizze
    Level 33  
    Well, you are reading the wrong things.
    Also check the factory construction, because it would be best to do the same, but the home-made absorber is black paint.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the feasibility of using photovoltaic (PV) panels for heating domestic hot water, comparing it to traditional solar collectors. Users express concerns about the initial costs and efficiency of PV systems, particularly for a 100-liter boiler. Recommendations include using a minimum of 1.5 kWp of PV panels, with a suitable inverter (e.g., SMA, Fronius) and a heater that matches the panel output. The importance of energy storage and the potential for on-grid systems to utilize excess energy is emphasized. Users also discuss the practicality of DIY solar collectors versus purchasing ready-made solutions, highlighting the need for proper calculations to determine the required power and efficiency. The conversation includes technical details about system components, installation considerations, and the impact of panel orientation and weather conditions on performance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 1 kWp PV array in Poland yields ≈8 kWh on a clear summer day, lifting 100 L of water by 65 °C; “off-grid works, but only if voltage stays below 230 V” [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900]

Why it matters: Correct sizing prevents wasted watts, boiled tanks and blown electronics.

Quick Facts

• 100 L horizontal boiler needs ≈2.3 kWh to rise 50 °C [Elektroda, philips89, post #16334778] • 1 kWp produces 6–8 kWh per sunny day in central Europe [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900] • Used 2 kWp off-grid kit: ≈2 500 PLN (panels + MPPT) [Elektroda, anaba255, post #16346496] • Safe DC string for heaters: 120–155 V to stay <230 V open-circuit [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900] • Limescale forms rapidly above 60 °C—set thermostat ≤55 °C [WHO, 2017]

1. How much PV power heats a 100 L tank in summer?

Target 1.2–1.5 kWp. That array delivers 7–10 kWh on bright days—enough to raise 100 L by 50–70 °C while offsetting heat loss [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900]

2. What daily energy can I expect from 1 kWp in Poland?

Expect 6 kWh on average summer days and up to 8 kWh in peak sun (≈10 h) [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900] Annual yield is 900–1 100 kWh per kWp [PolPV Report, 2022].

3. Is direct DC-to-heater wiring efficient?

No. A 250 W panel wired straight to a 12 V heater may deliver only 0.4–0.6 kWh per day, losing 60 % versus inverter use [Elektroda, Editom, post #16336470]

4. What’s the over-voltage risk in off-grid strings?

If load disconnects, open-circuit voltage can exceed 300 V and destroy lamps or controllers. Keep Umpp 120–155 V and add fuses or MPPT to limit spikes [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900]

6. What does a basic 1 kW off-grid kit cost?

Five 195 W used panels (1 495 PLN) plus MPPT (590 PLN) and wiring (≈300 PLN) total about 2 400 PLN [Elektroda, anaba255, post #16346496]

7. Does panel tilt matter?

Yes. A 18° tilt boosts diffuse-light capture but raises cell temperature; each 10 °C rise cuts power ~5 % [Fraunhofer, 2021]. Match tilt to summer sun if water-heating is seasonal.

8. PV vs. solar-thermal: which is cheaper long-term?

Thermal collectors cost less per watt but need pumps, glycol and overheat protection. “I would never choose collectors” due to maintenance load [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16336665] PV adds versatility—surplus powers appliances.

9. What happens on cloudy days?

Output drops to ≈1 kWh per kWp, raising 100 L only 8–9 °C [Elektroda, gaz4, post #16345900] Design backup (electric element or boiler) for comfort edge-cases.

10. Will higher temperatures shorten tank life?

Yes. Above 60 °C calcium carbonate precipitates fast, clogging coils and corroding welds; scale halves element life in hard-water zones [WHO, 2017]. Limit setpoint or flush annually.

11. How do I size a PV array for a small boiler?

  1. Compute energy: 4 200 J × L × ΔT / 3 600 000. 2. Divide by daily sun hours (e.g., 7 h). 3. Add 20 % for losses. Example: 100 L × 45 °C ≈5 kWh → 0.9 kWp array. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16337493]

12. Edge-case: what if both pumps fail in a drain-back solar-thermal?

Without circulation absorber stagnates; plate hits 180 °C, melting polystyrene DIY backing and boiling fluid—complete collector loss [Elektroda, idepopizze, post #16349355]
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