Master III 2013: Installation Scheme, Error P087, Low Pressure, Injection Error, Fuel Pump

I have a question for my colleagues, maybe someone has an installation scheme for Master III from 2013. The problem with the car is that while driving showed an error in the injection and there was error P087 low pressure on the beam the car returned on the trailer after erasing the error, the car fired 6km and again stands . Now it does not fire or show any error what I noticed that I can not hear the fuel pump in the tank now I do not know if it turned on after every key turn or not. I've broken the fuel line from the fuel filter and the pump does not pump and I think that this may be the reason for the failure. My question now, where the fuel pump in the tank is fed from, I will try to measure on the bundles only I do not know where to look and pulling the tank with 80 liters of fuel is an average pleasure.

The pump may only be switched on during filming. Bury yourself with the plug from the pump, put on the tube and turn off. When the pump is lit it will not look like it.

You can give the power of the car how many kw and you can know the engine code

2,3 125 HPM engine.
When it comes to checking the pump at the ankle, I have to take the tank from the car and I have about 80l of fuel. I thought to hook up to the computer and give 12V to the pump.

piotrekwoj1 wrote:

The pump may only be switched on during filming

The pump in these cars starts after turning the ignition.
A burned pin in the plug. The tank is enough to unscrew the two clamps, the third one to let go only.
It's already some master with this defect, it turns out that the factory defect.

Relay R1 controls the injection system, fuse No..10 -20A fuel pump.

pitool wrote:

A burnished pin in the plug

pitool wrote:

, it turns out that the factory defect.

I completely agree . Poor quality material on the pins in the pump connector.

Thank you and help tomorrow I will draw the tank and check, let me know about the effects. One more question how to vent the fuel system after removing the hose from the fuel filter system has been blown.

You turn on the ignition and wait, the pump will work a good minute and that's enough for him.

Hello again, it turned out that the socket in the fuel pump is burnt out. I still have a question where you can get a plug that is on the beam because the connector in the pump burns out and additionally in the beam.

I refresh the topic

A year ago, I was touched by the standard problem of a burnt fuel pump socket. The plug is also stoned on one pin. I replaced the pump with the plug. A year has passed and the pump has stopped working / feeding fuel again. After removing the cube on the pump, it turned out that the same pin in the plug was burnt. Slightly yellow plastic around the pin in the pump. I soldered the plug, but when I pressed it into the pump socket, I cannot push it all the way in so that it locks. There is a yellow cap and a rubber gasket on the plug. Can this plastic cap be removed so that the plug comes to the end in the pump socket?

What could be the cause of such a cyclic failure? Is there a problem with weight or is the voltage applied to the pump incorrect? Where to look for the cause? I don't care about replacing the fuel pump every fall ...

A crazy idea came to my mind ... How to connect a 12v in-line pump between the tank and the fuel filter and disconnect the factory pump in the tank (or when the socket gets hot again). Such a modification has the right to work?

Thanks for your interest in the topic

greetings
waldee

solder thick wires to this pump mounting on the tank permanently and pour silicone (preferably Reinz) and solder to the original cables and nothing will burn out

this pump in the tank runs on the key all the time - a friend once filled up a whole tank of gasoline and he dripped off when he went to pay, and I disconnected the fuel hose from the filter and extended it and let everything go to the bubbles, I thought that we would have to dismantle and hold a relay, but it turned out that this pump is still running when the ignition key is turned on - strange, but it is

it also vented the air, poured oil and fired normally

thanks buddy for a great idea. In order for the whole to be disassembled, I will solder the wires terminated with a 4 PIN socket to the pins in the pump socket and connect this socket with the plug from the car installation side. On the net I found a Superseal 4PIN hermetic connector with wires for PLN 7.35 and yesterday I gave PLN 70 for the plug to the pump. Shops have felt the pinch and are charging like gold. If after a while it turns out that the cube-plug connection burns up, the car will go to "Jew" ;)

greetings
waldee

PS when I solder all this, I will send a photo for posterity.

Already a third pump to be replaced! For colleagues who say that the tank is not! Has! Pumps! I say it is because I have already taken it out twice! This is probably a factory defect!

In October, after diagnosing that one of the pins in the pump burned up again, I did as I wrote 2 posts above. I removed the pump from the tank, cut off the top of the socket to access the pump pins
I soldered the wires with the socket to the pins. From the side of the car's electrical installation, I soldered the wires ended with a plug. I insulated the soldering point on the pump with Reinz and the wires from the installation side with heat-shrinkable sleeves.

It's been half a year now and knock on the door, the car works without any problems

greetings
Waldee