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BMW / E39 / 523i - Jerks when accelerating, does not start when cold

rjmp 5937 7
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16368294
    rjmp
    Level 9  
    Hello.
    A few weeks ago, the car spun but did not start (I looked on the net: I was advised to add petrol (it was about 15 liters) and it helped.
    Then I had problems with the electrics (the car after turning the key only clicked the relays and the lights dimmed - disconnecting the battery for a few hours helped)
    Now it is like this:
    I burned the fuel (twice) to ignite the reserve and the car started up nicely (I wanted to exclude damage to the fuel pump or the overflow system from one chamber to another).
    Yesterday morning (6th) (about 15 liters in the tank) it turned but did not start. After returning from work, I was going to go to the station with a 10 liter bottle, but I thought that I would try again and the bmk fired !! ??
    It fired but started to "frog", ie when accelerating it began to jerk: it accelerates about 2 seconds, loses power for a fraction of a second. In general, you had to keep more revolutions than usual. After a few hundred meters it was a bit better: it regained power, but sometimes it was lost when accelerating.
    The revs did not drop by themselves, the car did not slow down by itself, but there was a problem with even acceleration every few seconds.
    I refueled 20 liters (over 30 in the tank) and still jerking when accelerating (less with driving time)

    In the evening I drove a few kilometers and there was a problem mainly at the beginning (in the cold), then it was better, only every dozen or so seconds there was a problem with acceleration (slight jerks).

    Screenshots from inpy:
    BMW / E39 / 523i - Jerks when accelerating, does not start when cold BMW / E39 / 523i - Jerks when accelerating, does not start when cold BMW / E39 / 523i - Jerks when accelerating, does not start when cold
    measurements at standstill, 4 cylinders are working, the fifth and sixth are turned on when gas is gased.
    inflated doses of fuel and air are (I think) normal for inpy

    Besides, inpa has returned errors:
    ECU: ASC
    67 electromagnetic field susceptibility

    ECU: LCM
    40 thermal sensor for oillevel defect

    ECU: IHKA39
    21 aux water pump
    42 sensor blower

    ECU: ZKE3_GM1
    146 tilt alarm sensor
    149 interior security



    I have read a lot of internet and I have a muddle (fuel pump or pipe system in the tank, injectors, spark plug, high voltage cables, camshaft sensor, shaft sensor, emphysema, lambda probe, clogged catalytic converter, etc. ---- people advise to change ... )
    Any ideas?
    Any information on a BMW specialist in Bydgoszcz?
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  • #2 16368556
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Looks like fuel pressure problems. Clogged filter, damaged pump / injectors.
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  • #3 16370223
    sebap
    Level 41  
    Parameters normal, maybe loading is slightly too low, errors have nothing to do with firing and jerking.
  • #4 16370953
    rjmp
    Level 9  
    Yesterday I drove about 50 km on the route and it was almost good, i.e. power drops and minimal jerks were every few minutes and barely perceptible. Overall it was almost OK. It fired up nicely this morning. I turned off the engine. I turned the key to position 1 and pushed the right button. I unlocked the tests. The result of the sixth test was 7L / 15L / 22L. I fired a few other tests out of curiosity. The key is in the 0 position and I am trying to start the engine and only clicking (I think relays) and dim lights. No spinning. The voltage on the terminals on the battery 10.6V. I unpin the clamp "-", wait a while and the voltage on the 11.6V battery that is not connected. (both measurements without the key in the ignition switch) I connect the ammeter between the clamp "-" battery and clamp "-" 2.4A (probably the lamp on the tailgate does not pull that much. With the key in position 1, the ammeter gives a result of 5.5A - probably too much (radio off The voltmeter shows 9.7V. Question: should the car try to turn off with such a low voltage, does the computer have a threshold at which I do not try to turn off and hence the clicking and dimming lights? Is it possible to run a few tests (probably the only power-hungry test is ) would discharge the battery?
    With the clamps on (but without the key), I took out the K96 relay and shorted the pins in the socket that turned on the pump power supply and the pump responded (rather with the correct sound: constant hum, "rather" because I am not an expert on the sound of fuel pumps :-) )
    I took out the battery. I'll connect to the charger. We'll see how tomorrow will be .....
    Any ideas?
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  • #5 16370963
    sebap
    Level 41  
    The idea is that if you measure the power consumption, wait 20 minutes after locking the car with the remote control, because even the climatronic fan works about 15 minutes after the car is turned off.
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  • #6 16370985
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    rjmp wrote:
    Question: should the car try to spin with such a low voltage

    And where from, measure the voltage on the battery with the lights on, if it is not 12v, the battery is scrap and buy a new one.

    Added after 30 [seconds]:

    It should be 72AH 12v.
  • #7 16371170
    rjmp
    Level 9  
    Let me repeat:
    2.4A with the key removed and the tailgate open (1 lamp on the ceiling / tailgate), previously removed clamp "-".
    5.5A when inserting the key and turning to position 1 (the lights are on), the next key position = engine start, air conditioning, fan, radio off.
    If it was broken, would it have fired a few minutes earlier (cold)?
  • #8 16371253
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    These measurements mean nothing, you have to close the car, wait 15 minutes and then look at the ammeter connected in series with the battery.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a BMW E39 523i experiencing starting issues and jerking during acceleration. The user initially faced a no-start condition, which was temporarily resolved by adding fuel. Subsequent electrical problems included dimming lights and clicking relays, which were alleviated by disconnecting the battery. The user reported intermittent jerking while accelerating, suggesting potential fuel pressure issues, possibly due to a clogged filter or damaged fuel pump/injectors. Various responses emphasized the importance of measuring battery voltage and current draw after the vehicle is locked to diagnose electrical drain, with suggestions to check the battery's health and ensure proper voltage levels.
Summary generated by the language model.
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