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Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

Grudmann 33303 5
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16373553
    Grudmann
    Level 11  
    Hello
    I recently carried out such an operation using the posts of "bombelll" and "eLolek" users, who I would like to thank.
    The problem is the lack of switching on the clutch compressor or the problem with driving the variable capacity valve of the Harrison V5 compressor.
    The most common cause is the break in the electrical installation, which in this car is probably made of pinworms. How to find out I will describe it immediately, using my own problem.

    The first thing I did was visit the plant from klimy. Checking the tightness + if necessary filling the cavities. My problem did not concern the pressostat, so I'm not talking about it in the description. The pressure is, after turning on the button, the revs increase slightly but the compressor does not start.
    The first thing - under the car, we remove the ankle from the compressor clutch (the one closer to the belts) and try the clutch (coil) for a short time. Pay attention to the connection point + and - (they are marked on the cube). If, for a short time, the clutch does not click, we know that it is to be replaced, but usually the fun does not end there (not Renault).
    If the clutch works, using the fact that we are under the car, we start to check the cables - the cable to the clutch is fixed + (controlled by the negative). We take a meter, one tester for mass and the other look for a plus. How cool it is, it does not mean that we have a break in the hose :-(
    The same is done with the cable from the variable capacity valve (at the back of the compressor, where the tubes are). Here, too, there is a constant + and a downside control is from the air conditioning panel (in the cabin) by PWM. I do not know why but the usual plus is and the problem is a minus. If both pluses are, then we're starting to test for "minuses".

    To do this, remove the air-conditioning panel, then take out the 30-pin cube (the largest one) and check the transition between:
    - for air conditioning clutches, pin 15 connector on the panel in the cabin with a minus on the ankle at the compressor (under the hood)
    - for variable capacity valve pin 7, connector panel with minus at the solenoid valve plug (under the hood at the compressor)

    Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

    If we have both pluses and the above test will show minus passages on the cables, then the problem lies in the air conditioning panel. You can try to repair or buy on the second auction website for a replacement (pay attention to the serial numbers).

    A more detailed search for the lack of passage on the above mentioned wires can be carried out by disassembling the battery and its base, and matching the connecting bones found there. It's about the two big cubes to the right of the computer (looking under the hood), not the plugs plugged directly into the computer.

    Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

    I just had a break in the hose to the compressor clutch -> pin 15 (green cable) to the minus connector in the plug (orange cable).
    To narrow down the search area, I got used to these cubes. In the bone closer to the computer the passage of this line (to the compressor coil) is on the middle of the bottom thick pins.

    Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

    Now we can check whether the gap is between the air-conditioning panel and the dice or between the ankle and the compressor. For me, the second option came out, so I did not play with the next search and the beam under the hood - I ran a bypass new lead from the ankle to the plug on the compressor and everything goes on. I am sure that the transitionpin 7 - the compressor valve also passes through this bone, but I did not check for lack of necessity (and laziness).
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  • #2 16476328
    marchr2
    Level 10  
    Hello! And what was it that I observed on the cables from the plug to the compressor control valve is normal? Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

    Because I'm getting it all with this air conditioning, to put it a bit annoying ... it's a constant shutdown when you're driving faster.
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  • #3 16476340
    piotrekwoj1
    Level 42  
    marchr2 wrote:
    Hello! And is what I observed on the cable from the plug to the valve normal?

    Yes it is the standard there is connecting cables and this "something" is a seal.
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  • #4 16476358
    marchr2
    Level 10  
    Does it mean that every Laguna with electro-valve has such a contraption in this place? Could someone put his fingers in there?
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  • #5 16483826
    marchr2
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen, when it comes to pressostat, I still have a nice description, which probably will not be useful to one of us. I think there was a problem there because today, after replacing it is ok. Below is a description of how to check it in different ways:
    Laguna II: Step-by-Step Guide to Inspect Air Conditioning Beam & Compressor Clutch in Harrison V5

    How to check the 3-pin air conditioning sensor which is installed in Opel Astra, Citroen, Renault?

    The figure above shows the connectors in the sensor socket. The return signal from the sensor depends on the pressure in the system. It is very important for the measurement to be carried out on the connected sensor and the air conditioning system being filled. To measure the sensor, you can insert into wires or as I did it using a thin cable pressed into the konikkory. IT IS IMPORTANT TO MEASURE POWER ON THE SPEED IN THE PRESSURE PLUG AND WITH SWITCH ON.

    1) Check if the ground wire has a transition with the minus of the battery.
    2) Turn the ignition on and check if the supply voltage equals 5V.
    3) Now the most important: When we are sure that the system is tight and compact, after turning the ignition key, the return signal should be from 0.7V - 1V. This is the voltage that allows the compressor to start. When we turn on the air conditioning on the running engine at an ambient temperature of about 25 degrees, then the voltage should begin to rise to about 1.74V. In the area of 1.5V, the first fan speed should start. You can also check the heat of the air conditioning pipe coming out of the radiator towards the bulkhead wall. If the tube can be held for longer than 30 seconds and the fan is running, the sensor is operational. If the tube is hot, you can not check the sensor's return signal for longer than 10 seconds. If the tube can not be maintained, the voltage on the sensor should be above 2.2V. If the sensor has a value less than 2V, it is damaged.

    I present the voltage values depending on the pressure in the system.
    0bar - 0.18V, 1bar - 0.31V, 2bar - 0.42V, 3bar - 0.55V, 4bar - 0.71V, 5bar - 0.8V, 6bar - 0.95V, 7bar - 1.07V, 8bar - 1.27V, 9bar - 1.36V, 10bar - 1.49V, 11bar - 1.61V, 12bar - 1.77V, 13bar - 1.89V, 14bar - 2.04V, 15bar - 2.17V, 16bar - 2.31V, 17bar - 2.47V, 18bar - 2.6V, 19bar - 2.75V.

    Finally, a way to quickly check the operation of fans with a three-connector sensor in which the supply voltage is 5V. In the case of the Opel Astra or Opel Zafira, with the odometer plug from the sensor, all fans should run at full power.

    It is also worth looking at the 3-pin plug and watch the cables because they like to rot. Checking the transition to the air conditioning panel is done according to the following formula. The pins in the panel can be found in the Lagoon books available in pdf.
    A -> pin 8
    B -> pin 11
    C -> pin 3
    greetings
  • #6 18608332
    gienek8400
    Level 9  
    Mr buddy grudman, if you would tell me which pin in this plug is responsible for supplying the solenoid valve, you would be GREAT
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