Cracked Ceramic Tiles: Causes & Solutions for Opoczno 20x40 Tiles, Grout Delay, & Glue Thickness

What's one got to do with another...? Did I write that it is not worth priming ... ???
I wrote that hardly anyone complies with the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of materials. If someone uses a soil other than that recommended by the manufacturer, nothing is allowed to happen. If the primer is unsuitable, as sometimes it is, the only problem will be peeling tiles or peeling paint. If you apply any primer and it dries, it cannot interfere with the glue, plaster, etc. because it dries up and there is no such possibility. Unless you prime and start gluing the tiles immediately. The manufacturer will always suggest buying their materials, because they have to sell it. More than once, during training sessions at the manufacturer's, it was suggested or even recommended to use their tools, because they are appropriate ... and the only difference with other manufacturers was the price. For example, a stucco sheet cost PLN 70 and another with the same parameters PLN 20.
Following the manufacturer's instructions is necessary when you need to mix two substances. Because then you can be sure that when using the recommended product, nothing should happen. And if you use a different one, you are not sure if an adverse reaction will occur. Is it so hard to understand ...?

The glue was flexible?

At the beginning there is a description of the glue and tiles ... you have to read

kwok wrote:

According to the card, you should use Ceresit CT 17. Probably the unigrunt added something from itself

After all, it is obvious that Ceresit will recommend the CT 17 soil, because it is their production, while the unigrunt is produced by Atlas.
I have not yet seen any manufacturer recommend using competitor's products.

Welcome.

I'll add something from myself.

There may be several reasons for this, the author mentioned that there are cracks where the board is primed, and where there are no cracks in the liquid foil.

What we know - crap tiles, strong flexible glue, unequal thickness of this glue, unequal surface coating.

Elastic adhesives are characterized by the fact that they like to shrink during setting and drying (the question is whether the glue was mixed twice? Was it mechanically mixed?), Let's add an unequal coating on the board. A primed gypsum board is much more adhesive with a tile adhesive than it is covered with a liquid foil, the liquid foil itself is relatively easy to remove from the board. Similarly, with glue, it is easier to remove it from the liquid foil than from a primed board.

My theory:
- the glue has slightly shrunk during setting,
- in places where the board was primed, he held it tight enough that he pulled in a weak tile causing cracks,
- in places where the plate was covered with a liquid foil, it has burned off the foil or together with the plate foil.

The tiles themselves can also be to blame.

The phrase "crap tiles" came to my mind after the information about the curvature of the plane of these tiles, I have already encountered such inventions. They are so soft that you can scrape them with a wallpaper knife and bend them in your hand.
Sometimes I have the impression that under the influence of moisture they become even more flexible.

As for tile adhesive and construction chemicals, I haven't used ceresite for ten years, maybe because it was absorbing, I don't remember. I use glue, grouts, silicones and liquid foil from Mapei.
Mapei P9 glue, if I mix it by machine (the mixer rotation does not matter), I can put even 5 cm of glue under the tile and nothing will happen. If I mix it by hand (even if I mix it vigorously), it will pull the plate in with a thickness above about 5 mm.

Regards

I am not a specialist there, but since the ground does not react with anything and anything does not react with the soil, its use should not have any impact on the strength of the joint, and from my own experience I know that after 15 years it is difficult to scrape the putty from a primed plasterboard and there where there was no soil, scratches and basically falls off the cardboard without a problem. Someone explain to me why this is happening if the ground does not affect anything.

I read a bit on http://www.malowanie.pl/aktualnosci/gruntowan...m-i-czego-gruntowac-techniki-gruntowania_n_92
Piece:
Many contractors are of the opinion that specific, specially produced primers should be used under specific paints or plasters. Most manufacturers offer dedicated primers for specific types of their paints. It is difficult to clearly define how much is necessary and how much is marketing. The fact is that primers for a specific paint or plaster are produced and tested in laboratory conditions. Of course, this does not exclude the equally good effectiveness of a preparation of another brand, often much cheaper. This matter probably raises the most doubts, so - if you have no experience in painting - rely on the opinion of a trusted team that has already tried many materials and in many combinations. It is worth adding that some paints tolerate "foreign" ground better, while others tolerate much worse.

Buddy Steam, "crap tiles" is not an invention. This is a standard in Polish and foreign production. As already mentioned, deviation from the plane is the norm. It may be a disadvantage to the buyer, but this is what production looks like. Apparently, there is no other way to align the tile in production. The larger the plate, the greater the deviation from the plane. Maybe he actually found soft tiles, he has to check it himself. But it is inappropriate to throw all the curved tiles in one bag and say that this "crap" that can be broken in your hands.

Added after 9 [minutes]:

kwok wrote:

I am not a specialist there, but since the ground does not react with anything and anything does not react with the soil, its use should not have any impact on the strength of the joint, and from my own experience I know that after 15 years it is difficult to scrape the putty from a primed plasterboard and there where there was no soil, scratches and basically falls off the cardboard without a problem. Someone explain to me why this is happening if the ground does not affect anything.

I read a bit on http://www.malowanie.pl/aktualnosci/gruntowan...m-i-czego-gruntowac-techniki-gruntowania_n_92
Piece:
Many contractors are of the opinion that specific, specially produced primers should be used under specific paints or plasters. Most manufacturers offer dedicated primers for specific types of their paints. It is difficult to clearly define how much is necessary and how much is marketing. The fact is that primers for a specific paint or plaster are produced and tested in laboratory conditions. Of course, this does not exclude the equally good effectiveness of a preparation of another brand, often much cheaper. This matter probably raises the most doubts, so - if you have no experience in painting - rely on the opinion of a trusted team that has already tried many materials and in many combinations. It is worth adding that some paints tolerate "foreign" ground better, while others tolerate much worse.

Apparently I misspelled ... the ground is bound to any material but on a thin surface. It does not "interfere" with 10 mm of glue, if it is already a millimeter thickness, although I doubt it. There will be a strain at the junction of the two materials rather than their full thickness. If he had to do something with glue, there would be thousands of such cases as his colleague. As I mentioned, hardly anyone uses primer of the same company as glue and somehow nothing happens.

Added after 11 [minutes]:

I forgot to add that the use of primer does not affect the strength of the joint, because the joint is an adhesive. The purpose of using soil is to increase the "stickiness" of other material to the wall. Therefore, if the primer is of poor quality, the only problem will be peeling tiles or peeling paint. If the paint with a very thin coating does not react with the ground, that is, nothing is happening to it, the glue, which is a few mm thick, will not be there any more.

I noticed it and as I wrote, he is the least interested in this problem. No response to the request for photos and more data shows his interest. If he does not provide more details, I do not see any point in further discussion.
Coming back to the last post pasted from a different page ... what I wrote, I took from my own experience and observations from other artists. I already wrote that hardly anyone uses dedicated materials and somehow no surprises, and there are no. If they are, they are sporadic. Even contractors on large construction sites supervised by large construction companies such as Mostostal, Warbud etc. do not follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the material. Instead of the suggested one or the one that they have to use, because the contract tells them to, they use cheaper substitutes and nothing happens. Sorry, for the lack of Polish characters, but I write from the phone all the time ...

Hello again, sorry for no reply but unfortunately I didn't have internet access. Green gypsum boards, one layer, additionally glue the boards and stick them to the wall (on a brick) because the walls are uneven. The board joints were only filled with gypsum board adhesive. Only so far I have noticed that the tiles are cracking where the uni primer was applied and after a short time the tiles were laid. I managed to reflect 2 tiles that had cracks and after reflecting them they are whole, but after soaking, you can see cracks.

And this is something like this:





It's hard for me to take a picture of the entire bathroom because it is small and the floor is not yet made.

Added after 5 [minutes]:

My brother-in-law and I decided to replace the tiles on the wall where the uni primer was applied, but what next if it is not the fault of uni primer? Everything points to it, or maybe too strong glue.

I noticed such cracking that it comes from the excess glue, but it is not about a thick layer, but about the fact that after pressing the plate the glue will come out sideways.
The effect of such planting is such that the flail dries up first around the rim of the plate does not shrink, the middle part under the plate shrinks when drying up, but it cannot pull the entire plate, because the rim is already stiff because it is dry, therefore something like sucking the middle of the plate underneath it is created. impact, it bends inward and the glaze of the tile cracks.
Accurate alignment of the wall plane and using a comb to apply the glue not only simplifies the work, but also prevents the glaze of the tiles from cracking, because the glue, having gaps from the comb, dries evenly over the entire surface of the tiles.
You just can't press the glue so that the comb grooves disappear and the glue fuses into one mass under the tile. In the cross-section, even small, evenly spaced voids must remain.

Added after 11 [minutes]:

radek3p wrote:

The problem is in the tile itself, as older colleagues remember that when laying the tiles, the tiler before soaking them in water. There were no adhesives or other, they were placed on the concrete mortar. The tile is only clay with admixtures, covered with glaze and fired. The clay inserts the water from the glue very quickly, which causes the glue to set quickly. I suggest using a brush to smear the back of the tile with clean water, and then stick it.

Soaking the tiles is necessary when gluing them to the mortar, which is first applied to the tile and for the mortar to remain flexible before the tile is placed on the wall, while when laying with glue, it is placed on the wall and so that the water from the glue is not absorbed quickly. through the wall, land is used.
After placing the dry plate on the wet glue, the plate draws in water and its position on the wall is quickly stabilized. Therefore, it is important to carefully align the walls, so that the tile does not need to be pressed in or added glue, and it should be enough as much as there is left over the comb, and the tile practically, only gently applied and moved right-left. They themselves then arrange themselves on the wall equally.