Cracked Ceramic Tiles: Causes & Solutions for Opoczno 20x40 Tiles, Grout Delay, & Glue Thickness

I apologize in advance for assuming such a topic on such a forum, but I know that there are various professionals who can help me. Well, two months ago I started to renovate the bathroom, most of the bathroom has already been done but without the grout. A few days ago, I noticed a vertical crack in the tile, and a few days ago, another crack in another. Today, out of curiosity, I wiped the tiles with a wet cloth and bumm, the enamel cracks appeared on a large number of tiles, which are not visible dry only after wiping with water. I have read a lot that it may be the fault of too high thickness of the glue, substrate, tiles, etc. Yes, there are more than 1 cm of the glue in some places, but there are also places that will be somewhere 0.5 cm and the tile is cracked anyway. I am going to file a complaint, but will it be recognized? I would like to add that the tiles are Opoczno 20x40 and not straight, but slightly curved (I checked by putting a spirit level on the tile and the center adheres, and the sides open to 0.5 cm on both sides).

Please help.

The larger the tile, the greater the unevenness on the tile. But that's the norm. Write the tiles on a wall and what glue was used.

Well, are only ceramic curves? Because I also have other larger ones and they are perfect, simple, but not ceramic, but also wall-mounted. Most of the tiles were laid on green drywall, and then it was primed. As for the adhesive, Ceresit CM 16 was used.

You write that more than 1 cm of glue is a relative term, because it can be 11 mm and 19 mm. One cm or 10 mm is not too much glue. It all depends on the tiles, but 19 mm is an exaggeration.
What's on the other side of the wall? I understand that the tiles have been touched?
"Error 6 - forgetting about proper dilatation
Expansion joints compensate for the work of the ceramic floor related to thermal expansion. They are required at the connection points of wall and floor planes, at the contact points of substrates or floors made of various materials, with large surfaces and underfloor heating. Lack of dilatation in these places or their improper implementation may [b] result in cracking of the structure and the tiles themselves and their loosening.
At the beginning, plasterboard walls will "work", so it is important that the tiles have adequate expansion joints.

sebaele22 wrote:

(I checked by putting a spirit level on the plate and the center adheres and on the sides there is a clearance of up to 0.5 cm on both sides

What do you live in Iglo, what do you have 0.5 cm of arc on the tile?

The problem is the working surface, as already mentioned by my colleague. The thickness of the glue is not of great importance here because the glue cracking would result in falling tiles.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

sebaele22 wrote:

(I checked by putting a spirit level on the plate and the center adheres and on the sides there is a clearance of up to 0.5 cm on both sides

What do you live in Iglo, what do you have 0.5 cm of arc on the tile?

The larger the plate, the greater the "deviation" from the plane. A 60x60 tile can have a difference of even 1 cm in the plane, and this will be the norm. I have seen more than one such plate

The tiles have been arranged using crosses, so there is dilatation. On the other side of the wall are panels, paneling, and paint. 1 time I have encountered such crooked tiles, the wall looks like it is quilted, not straight.

Apart from the working substrate which may cause the tiles to crack - the other is whether you laid the glaze yourself? I saw a magician who knocked out the tiles so much that they just cracked - too thick glue and use a solid rubber hammer

I arranged it the same and also gently pressed it, but the cracks are visible after a month and not immediately after laying. I already thought that maybe it was because of uni ground because where I gave it there are cracks and where there is a liquid foil, no cracks are visible yet.

My friend Unigrunt has nothing to do with it, you might as well not use it at all and they have no right to crack, if you do, they will just fall off. On the other side of the wall, do you have an option to check if there are cracks on the wall ...?
After laying it down, did you heat the bathroom to dry faster ...?

Added after 1 [minutes]:

You could take pictures of the bathroom and close-ups on the tiles ...

two layers of green gypsum boards should be applied under the glaze.

DJ MHz wrote:

two layers of green gypsum boards should be applied under the glaze.

What if you give one record to glue ...? The double plate is more stable, but it will work anyway. If the tiles are laid in crosses, not touching the floor near the floor, and on the side walls, then nothing should happen.

DJ MHz wrote:

two layers of green gypsum boards should be applied under the glaze.

Why two and the green one?

Green because they are more resistant to moisture. It is also important how the wall was placed.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Green boards are intended for wet, damp rooms, etc.

It would be worth asking what method was the adhesive applied? Were these cracks not present at the junction of two gypsum boards?

sebaele22 wrote:

the wall looks as if it is quilted, it is not straight.

Tell me how long were these tiles. Such a curvy g,., / ;;,. that I would not go to bed at all. Once I had some Italian on the floor, it broke after "normal" striking with my hand.
A bit of glue for equal plasterboards.

Romulus7874 wrote:

sebaele22 wrote:

the wall looks as if it is quilted, it is not straight.

Tell me how long were these tiles. Such a curvy g,., / ;;,. that I would not go to bed at all. Once I had some Italian on the floor, it broke after "normal" striking with my hand.
A bit of glue for equal plasterboards.

I suggest you go to the store and check the plane of the tiles. The larger it is, the more uneven it is. And it is not a flaw or a fluff. This is the norm. I would not like to put such tiles either, but they are and you can't help it. I saw the first grade of tiles for the floor, 80x40, they had a difference of 5mm to 10mm in the plane.

You know, they're all pretty and one-to-one on display. Only when you tear the parcels apart, it turns out that the curves and the dimensions do not hold. And explain to the investor that it is so despite the first grade.

An investor can always buy the tiles himself ...

As your colleague Sławek 61 mentioned, check if any cracks do not appear near the joint of the two boards, if so, then you have the answer.

And if this is the case with the wall, it means a construction error in erecting the wall.

The reason is trivial. It is a flexible adhesive that is too strong for tiles, or rather too weak tiles.
The essence of flexible glue are strong crystalline bonds which "hold" the plate in the event of deformation of the substrate. When a piece of a plate is weak, strong glue tears it and there is a problem for a colleague.

Hello, I suspect the defect of the tiles are badly fired and those that crack him could be from a different batch. Regards.

101 Paweł ... you are probably right, but there is one "But" if it were so, such situations would be common. A Polish specialist rarely reads any instructions regarding tiles, glue, etc. I have never seen a tiler measure the amount of water into the glue, as suggested by the manufacturer. Everyone makes an eye ... I work in this industry, I can see how it looks like.
When it comes to the reason, how many people on the Internet, so many opinions ... I suggest that the person with the problem should present exactly how the wall was put up, take pictures, etc. then you can look for the reason. And yes, everyone has their own theory ...

Gentlemen, before you start passing judgments, wait for a detailed description of all activities. How the wall is placed, according to the technology etc. It may not be the fault of the tiles, but the walls. At the moment, there is really little information.

A piece from the glue technical card
SUBSTRATE PREPARATION
CM 16 mortar can be used on a load-bearing and dry substrate
free from adhesion-reducing substances (such as
such as grease, bitumen, dust):
inside and outside buildings:
- concrete (more than 3 months old, humidity less than 4%),
- cement screeds and plasters, cement-lime plasters
(minimum age 28 days, humidity less than 4%);
- cellular concrete, dust-free, primed CT 17.
inside buildings:
- plasterboards - primed with the preparation
Ceresit CT 17,

sebaele22 wrote:

I already thought that maybe it was because of uni ground because where I gave it there are cracks and where there is a liquid foil, no cracks are visible yet.

And you thought right - the chemistry works. According to the chart, you should use Ceresit CT 17. Probably the unigrunt added something and the properties of the adhesive changed a lot. Probably the professionals are laughing now, but unfortunately we live to the times when you cannot risk, for example, diluting the phthalic paint, e.g. nobiles with pikko thinner, or the wallpaper of the company X cannot be permanently glued with the adhesive of the company Y. I myself experienced a crack in the acrylic paint coating on the car about 20 minutes after spraying - paint thinned with a non-dedicated thinner, but for acrylic paints. With the help of chemists, companies tie the customer to each other and the purchases come down to buying sets of materials of one company, as in the west, the customer in the store selects tiles and asks for the rest for THESE TILES, similarly with paints, plasters, etc. The financial aspect looks something like this: you can buy our glue for PLN 18, but you will not use the primer for PLN 9, because you may break something, so you have to buy our primer for PLN 25 and you have a guarantee that the tiles will not fall off and break. In other words, you will not save because you will lose even more.

And the wall crashed because he didn't use Rigips' screws and he didn't use plaster of them etc ... why do plaster producer to putty the walls recommend using their equipment, spatulas etc .. ??? Partly because you want to sell your merchandise.
I have been working in this industry for over a dozen years and I have yet to meet someone using the material in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendation ... The fact that someone has used a different primer does not mean that something has happened to the adhesive. The ground can't react with anything because it has dried up so why would it affect the glue ... ??? If the tiles fell off, one could say something about the soil and this is the reading of coffee grounds.
I have already written that each of you has a theory, but you don't really know anything about the structure of the wall, etc.
Sebaele22 should provide more details so that something specific can be written. But he seems to be the least interested in it.

mariuszkam wrote:

The ground cannot react to anything

Well, if so, why anything (adhesives, putty, etc.) stick better to the primed wall and can fall off the unprimed wall despite the fact that it was thoroughly vacuumed and washed off?