Creating a Durable Tip for a Transformer Soldering Iron: A Comprehensive Guide

Hello
How to make a durable tip for a transformer soldering iron.

Hello similar topic was already on the electrode
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1565150.html
greetings Robert .

The tip for a transformer soldering iron is made of copper wire. The optimal wire diameter (for me) is 1.5mm. Sometimes I even make from 1mm wire. And the strength depending on how much you solder.

What kind of soldering iron is it? What kind of power? On its own it is different people combined gave even from steel or brass wire. From the bought it is necessary to look for silver-plated arrowheads.

Ideal solution is a container with spare arrowheads attached to the cable of the soldering iron I have so and ended the problem of flying and looking for a wire for the arrowheads when you need to quickly solder something. Of course, the arrowheads myself I made 1.5mm copper included screwdriver and sandpaper to clean the contact of the arrowhead The container on the cable makes it so that even when away from home I have a spare with me.

I used a transformer soldering iron for a great many years, when home repairs of consumer electronics were possible. There is nothing better than ordinary copper wire, with the understanding that the tip/bend of such a soldering iron will last for a few days at most, the wire gets thinner and thinner and burns out.
After burning out, the ends should be twisted together to a length of about 7÷8 mm, and only then is there a real use for such a tip and for such a soldering iron. First of all, the thermal inertia of such a tip twisted from two wires increases, because there is twice as much copper, the durability is also much greater, reaching up to a month or more. Simply as the thickness of the wire in the twist decreases, you twist the combiner tighter, and so you can for a very long time.
Such a "twisted" tip allows you to store more tin, soldering is much better than before the "burn through", you need to really try hard to not want to burn, for example, the print path.

Marian B wrote:

I used a transformer soldering iron for a great many years when home repairs of consumer electronics were possible. There is nothing better than ordinary copper wire, with the understanding that the tip/bend of such a soldering iron will last for a few days at most, the wire gets thinner and thinner and burns out.
After burning out, the ends should be twisted together to a length of about 7÷8 mm, and only then is there a real use for such a tip and for such a soldering iron. First of all, the thermal inertia of such a tip twisted from two wires increases, because there is twice as much copper, the durability is also much greater, reaching up to a month or more. Simply as the thickness of the wire in the twist decreases, you twist the combiners more tightly, and so you can do for a very long time.
Such a "twisted" tip allows you to store more tin, soldering is much better than before "burning", you have to really try hard to not want to burn, for example, the print path.

This means that I can twist the tip with combiners and it will serve me a long time?

Yes, you can twist, it will last longer, it will also certainly solder better. "Twist" should be a little less than 10 mm. It is best to just choose it experimentally, because the thickness of the wire also matters. As you wear, you can tighten further and further.

I suggest bronze wire rather than copper - stiffer and much more durable. Brass wears out quickly and heats up poorly (in a typical soldering iron, the kind in which copper works).

As for brass, it works well for me in a cheap resistance soldering iron made in CHRL. Initially I had copper but it oxidized quickly and the original was steel which conducted heat poorly. But I am curious about this bronze I can ask any hint where to obtain such wire or where I can recover it from what device.

I think I bought it in a store of non-ferrous metals. If the original wire was steel and the brass wire works well, maybe this soldering iron has a higher voltage and the "new silver" wire would be suitable?

And the steel blade is durable? And what temperature does it reach?

In my soldering iron originally was steel. It allowed itself to glow. It didn't wear out - it soldered so poorly that it didn't stand a chance.

I had steel in a resistive not to be confused with transformer. In resistive brass is lux. I need to try bronze. In trnsformator only copper I put on and I have a ZDZ soldering iron good equipment.

And no, I was the one who was thinking about transformer all along.... But bronze conducts electricity and heat not much worse than copper, and is much more durable.

Twisted spearhead
Broken spearhead

Will both the two spearheads I made last longer than the regular one?

mateusz2015_5102 wrote:

Twisted arrowhead

Slightly too long twisted .

Marian B wrote:

The "twist" should be a little less than 10 mm.

This should be .

You went a little crazy with this twist.... I don't know if the end of such a long twist will ever get hot enough before it cools down....

This twisted arrowhead is a replacement for such an arrowhead:

The twisted one has the advantage of being simpler to make because the one in the photo is made from 3mm copper wire by cutting and shaping it.

Hello colleagues.I have always used copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 to 4mm2- depending on the power needed.Wire from electrical cables.Soldering iron is- TD-08 type LT 75/45.I noticed that installation wire comes in three different hardnesses.The hardest one is apparently the most durable, but it does not give as much temperature as the soft one.

And the spearhead that I nailed down with a hammer will also be sturdy?

Marian B wrote:

After burning through, twist the ends together for a length of about 7÷8 mm, and only then is there any real use for such a tip and for such a soldering iron.

I don't know if there is a point in twisting the tip before burning through the wire, because there is always a higher temperature on the bend anyway, and that's where the copper will eventually disappear , even in a twisted pair. I have never done this, I have always twisted two separate "pieces" of wire once the tip has already burned through, and this method has worked very well in practice.

As for me , the matter of combining with some super twisted,forged arrowheads, etc., is a simple misunderstanding.A meter of electric cable 3x2 5 mm2 should cost even 3pln. Let a meter of electric cable 3x2.5 mm2 cost even 3pln. . Assuming that for one grotto will come out 10 cm of wire , then we have 30 grottoes. We can solder with this until the pain in the eyes and wrist.However, keep in mind that this is nothing more than an ordinary transformer-if you overheat it , you will get for it a gold fifty per kilo at the nearest scrap yard.

In fact, it's not that the wire is generally available and the burnt tip can be replaced with a new one at any time, only that it is sometimes a hassle, because it just isn't on hand.
With a new fresh wire, you need to pay more attention so as not to accidentally overheat delicate components.
When the tip is twisted, there is greater thermal inertia, better soldering, less concern about overheating, because the heating does not proceed so quickly, and the tip heated to the right temperature also does not cool "instantly".

Untwisted tip, for example, is better for "work in plastic" or wood.

A matter of skill, the thickness of the arrowhead, etc..You wrap the spare wire with paper and stick it with insulation to the handle-5/10 pcs.And as for the regulation of power-my colleague, a gadget fanatic, made himself a regulator based on a dimmer for lighting.And it even works for him.

Thank you. The topic is closed.