FAQ
TL;DR: For a Skoda Felicia 1.6 (1997), 3 terminals matter—30, 15, 50. “The ignition switch in START connects 30 with 50.” Use a momentary button to bridge 15→50 so it won’t crank with ignition off. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
Why it matters: This FAQ shows how to wire a safe push-start button without mis-cranking or chasing diagrams—ideal for DIYers replacing a fallen-out start button.
Quick Facts
- Button: round, momentary (monostable), 2-pin; fits simple start circuits in this thread’s retrofit. [Elektroda, Dawidos97, post #16950342]
- Function: OEM START bridges 30→50; retrofit button should bridge 15→50 for safety. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
- Verification: Use a test lamp to find the wire that goes live after ignition ON. [Elektroda, marfur30, post #16950741]
- System voltage: 12 V supply referenced for this wiring approach. [Elektroda, marfur30, post #16950428]
- Extra lead: Add a short jumper from terminal 15 to the button as part of the install. [Elektroda, abart64, post #16950554]
Which two wires do I bridge for a safe push-start button?
Bridge terminal 15 (ignition ON feed) to terminal 50 (starter control) through a momentary button. This prevents cranking with the ignition OFF, unlike bridging 30→50 directly. “The ignition switch in START connects 30 with 50,” but the button should use 15→50. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
How do I prevent the button from cranking with the ignition OFF?
Ensure the button only has power when the key is in IGN (terminal 15). Wire the button between 15 and 50. That way, no voltage reaches the starter unless the ignition is on. This avoids accidental engagement while the key is off. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
What do terminals 30, 15, and 50 mean on this ignition switch?
30 is the battery feed, 15 is the ignition-switched output, and 50 is the starter solenoid control. In START, the switch connects 30→50; for a retrofit button, use 15→50 to keep cranking interlocked with ignition ON. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
How do I find the ignition-on (15) wire without a diagram?
Use a simple 12 V test lamp. Turn the key to ON and probe wires; the one that lights only after ignition is your 15 feed. Connect one side of the button there and the other to the starter control wire. “Attach the second cable to it and connect it to the button.” [Elektroda, marfur30, post #16950741]
Do I need an extra wire from terminal 15 for the button?
Yes. Keep the factory wire in pin 15, then add an additional short lead from pin 15 to one pin of the button. Connect the other button pin to the starter control wire (50). This preserves OEM function and adds the push-start path. [Elektroda, abart64, post #16950554]
Is a simple 2-pin momentary button enough for this mod?
Yes. The thread’s retrofit used a round monostable 2-pin push-button. One pin goes to the ignition-on feed (15), the other to the starter control wire (50). Hold to crank, release to stop cranking. Keep it rated for automotive 12 V. [Elektroda, Dawidos97, post #16950342]
Can I power the button directly from the battery 12 V (terminal 30)?
It will crank if you bridge 30→50, but that allows starter engagement with ignition OFF. The recommended, safer approach is wiring 15→50 so the button works only when the key is ON. That interlocks cranking with ignition. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
How do I remove the electrical part of the ignition switch?
Lower the steering column (use an E12/“Edge 12” style tool), then use a small flat screwdriver to undo the two screws for the electrical switch. The electrical section comes off without drilling the shear bolts. [Elektroda, abart64, post #16950448]
What color is the starter control wire in this Felicia retrofit?
In the OP’s car, a blue wire appeared at both the starter under the hood and in the column harness. That blue lead was treated as the starter control (50) during the retrofit. Verify with a test lamp before finalizing. [Elektroda, Dawidos97, post #16950342]
Quick 3-step: How do I wire the push-start button safely?
- Turn key to ON and use a test lamp to find the wire that goes live only with ignition.
- Run a short lead from that ignition-on wire to one button pin.
- Connect the other button pin to the starter control wire and test. [Elektroda, marfur30, post #16950741]
What’s the risk if I wire the button from 30 to 50?
The starter can engage with the ignition OFF, which is unsafe and can damage components. Use 15→50 instead so cranking only happens with ignition ON. That single change adds a critical safety interlock. [Elektroda, tzok, post #16950475]
Should I just repair the ignition switch instead of adding a button?
You can. One response recommends fixing the ignition rather than adding a button. The system is 12 V, and restoring OEM function avoids extra wiring. If cost or shear bolts deter you, the button method remains viable. [Elektroda, marfur30, post #16950428]
Hello, a month ago I bought a Skoda Felicie 1.6 1997 hatchback, it had a button firing that worked on the principle of inserting the key into the ignition switch, turning it to the ON position, i.e. maximally to the right and pressing the button and you had to hold it, but this button fell out with the cables. So my question is if I bought the same button as to connect it, a button like in the picture, with two pins, a cable is connected to one pin and the other probably had nothing. How do you bite it? 
