VAG Seat Leon 2000 - Inconsistent Passenger Door Lock Reaction to Remote Control

Hello, I have a problem, fortunately sometimes

It looks like this: opening the car key does not always open the right front door.
When the remote control is activated again, the lock will work (or the button from the driver's door will also work).

I played contacts in the castle and on the plug (it was broken in February earlier). The lock after opening the closure in these problematic doors works properly. The contactors inside the lock were cleaned. The lock was also lubricated inside it comes lightly. The engine had limited clutch slip, I used 1 part epoxy glue to make it slip less. There are no errors according to VWtool.
I don't know how the cables from module to module / lock are. I don't know if moving the pip in the door is somewhere resistance.

What else can you check here? Using the internal closing opening button is 99% sure that it will not happen, which often happens when using the remote control, that this door will not unlock as it often happens on the remote control.

Would the relay in the module give the effect that it would not move this one lock when all the others move? And especially that from the inside of the button this problem did not happen. You can insert a relay into the module instead of the relay. There was a lot of moisture inside the car before I took over (eliminated the problem) front left / right solder locks (there was a standard problem with VAG locks, e.g. cracked February). I also soldered a modular board. In this castle there may be a problem with the lack or an additional spring in the castle just at the lever of the pip (the spring sets the mechanism slightly either open or closed - makes a jump)
It seems to me that the locks on the back do not fully work after pressing the button in front of children, the button does not light up (should it?) And the rear door can be opened from the inside normally (they should be locked with this system from the inside and unlocked from the outside).

Could it be the piping guide of these right front doors (it should be a longer tube just in this door can be broken or broken and glued but whether the resistance did not allow the lock to open since the lock reacts after the second pressing).

Do you have any ideas about this problem?

To make sure that the castle can be swapped sides and then look. If there will still be a problem with the right door, it is guilty of cable or comfort. If now the manager's door will work hard or not at all - you have the answer.

Locks cannot be swapped, at most
contactors with this unfortunate spring which in one of the locks broke and combined and it is not in the stores and there is nothing to replace because it must be stiff to have the sense of working in this place (but it can also be without it because I used to check that the reaction of the lock is there).

spring (first from the left)
link
and mounted here you can see (round larger on the left)
link

Failure of which contactor on the lock plate would block the lock unlocking? this from moving the motor to open or sensing the setting to close (would detect that it is already open and you do not need to start the motor). But wouldn't it be possible without this contactor to unlock the door at all other than with the handle?

I do not know if now how the problem occurs is whether the operation of the engine inside occurs when the lock does not unlock these doors you would have to listen.

The reaction could mean mechanical blocking. Lack of response is a problem with the electrical contactor, maybe the motor (although it does not show any slowdown as it works).

and the reaction of opening / closing always takes place in these doors using the button from the inside, I did not hit this lock did not react when opening from the inside but I found that the remote did not start twice in a row (usually it does not move on the first attempt).

is there a second line from the Comfort Module - an opening signal from the interior and another line used to open the key?

When closing from the remote control, the comfort locks the lock, when closing from the button inside it does not.
Here I would look for a problem, see if comfort sees the lock properly. If he tries to open the bolted lock without unlocking it, he will not succeed.

Something seems to be resisting mechanically.


block # 006 from the passenger door lock, at the moment when it opened when the lock was jammed as closed (3rd position described locked) but at the same time already unlocked (4th position as not safe) the reaction of the lock motor was not a proper upward movement of the pip.

error 1038 also appeared here

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B o n u s wrote:

at the moment when it opened when the lock was stuck closed (3rd position described locked) but at the same time already unlocked (4th position as not safe)

Was it then possible to open the lock with the handle from the inside?

sk700 wrote:

B o n u s wrote:

at the moment when it opened when the lock was stuck closed (3rd position described locked) but at the same time already unlocked (4th position as not safe)

Was it then possible to open the lock with the handle from the inside?

That could be opened.
I am talking about the stone (here there is a problem to replace the guide, the hole in the upholstery or the rod does not fit here in the hole or the problem inside in the lock with the contacts / operation of the lock.
I checked the contactors in VWTOOL everywhere in the door works but it happens that when closed with the key does not catch only the passenger door "safe" (4th position block 6) repeated pressing changes it
and when opening, however, when this door fails to open is properly "unsafe" (4th position) but still "locked" (3rd position) and even "locked" (3rd position) remains when you can open the pip and this door.

Opening from the inside of the handle changes to "unlocked". Pulling an open pip doesn't change.

With completely removed pip, the situation is much clearer in most cases, the opening is correct with "unlocked" and "unsafe" and the closing is correct with "locked" and "safe" (I did not observe that with the removed pip happened incorrectly).

It seems to me that either a broken spring has a task, or a damaged piping guide or a motor that is too weak, or maybe the clutch slips or the contactor does not work properly. What I notice, the unlocking sound seems to be single only in this door (when the door does not unlock), the other door has a double sound, the second attempt to operate the remote gives a slightly different sound in this unfortunate castle.

I think it cleared up. The problem was the pipe from the pip, and the spring, the rod did not hit perfectly together with the elastic band in the center of the hole in the side of the door. Most likely, when opening, it got stuck on the elastic band (unblocked effect) and when closed, it gave resistance and was without SAFE.

I fiddled with the spring (I put a piece of something else). I bent the rod / wire from the pip so that it fits together with the elastic band exactly in the middle of the hole in the door tray and its bending does not fall too high and since repair it has been opening and closing properly every time.