MAN TGL 12.240 EURO 4 Engine: Locating & Resolving Oil Leak Near Timing Case and Fuel Pump

Hello!

I have a problem with MAN as in the title, EURO 4 engine, common rail. Oil flows down the engine paw on the right (seen from the front of the vehicle). I took out the coolers but nothing interesting can be seen from the front. The engine is wet at about the connection of the timing case, from the height of the fuel pump. I also took out the oil filter housing but I still can't locate where this leak is from.
I wonder if it makes sense to dismantle the timing cover now and replace all the seals one after another, or maybe it is from under the fuel pump? ... Or maybe from under the oil filter housing (although wet and above this housing). The oil leak is not severe in terms of oil loss (because there is no need to top up the oil if it needs to be replaced if the condition is flooded), however, at every stop it is covered a little under the car so I have to remove the leak because eventually someone will take the evidence. Maybe some suggestions?
Is much work to unscrew the timing case? I understand that you need to unscrew the water pump but what else?

It's best to clean the engine properly and make a route. I am not sure but it seems to me that at least one of the bolts securing the engine suspension at the front is screwed in or "through" and is in contact with engine oil. So there it can drip, but you have to determine it yourself.

Hello, in Mana possible and the most common leaks are leaks from the engine oil filling hose - it is best to disassemble and scrutinize carefully, the seal between the fuel pump drive wheel - you unscrew the screw, remove the wheel - be careful not to hit with a hammer, there are two models of fuel pumps differ a small O-ring in the housing at the connection of the block with the pump - maybe it is damaged? O-ring on visco axle, small flywheel seal - shaft wheel. Next is connecting the compressor with the block and the oil pan gasket itself, if the engine were flooded with all the oil from the top then the keyboard cover gasket.
Is there a lot of work to do to remove the front wheel plate? It depends how much time you have, and in this case if it is the first version of the castings there are more elements to disassemble, but mostly tensioner, rollers, shaft wheel, unscrew visko - and remove, a few screws around the housing - front plate, new shaft seal, new visko o-ring , new front plate metal gasket.
In D20 - we had the oil pump replacement action and we did it a lot and one note - the plate is light alloy so if you knock too hard and break - very high cost - if you buy parts for sealing ask about the price of the plate it is possible to crack at not skilful use of tools.

Many thanks for the suggestions - I just did it so that I had the engine washed and made a route with it, but it did not help me in the location. Now I have the radiator and fan removed, so I will wash everything more thoroughly. I also took out the high pressure pump so I will replace the sealing o-ring on it, I will assemble the oil filter base with a new gasket - I think it will not hurt to lightly lubricate it with Hylomar sealing compound?
I will put everything together and then you will see how the oil will go on, which means that you need to remove the timing cover (front wheel plate).
Thanks for the info on the engine mount bolts - I'll check tomorrow if one passes through.
Best regards!