1.9 TDI BLS Engine: Identifying Oil Leak Sources - Turbo, Intercooler, Valve Cover & Solutions

Hello and welcome,

I have had a problem with my engine for some time, I don't like when the engine is sweaty or even dripping from it. I decided to take some photos and paste / ask here:

Here we have a view with the turbo air pipe disassembled, there was some oil there:
The question whether the sweaty pipe below the turbo supplying air to the intercooler suggests that "the turbo lets go" or it could be oil from the odor from the valve cover? (a lot of oil in this version), there was also some oil at the inlet from this pipe from turbo to intercooler on the clip in front of the cooler itself.



Can oil catch solve the problem of oil on this thick pipe between turbo and intercooler?

The second thing is heavy sweating or dripping on the back of the engine from the right side of the engine:







View from the turbo from the bottom:



Here is a leak from above from in the area behind the top cover:



Some time ago I sealed this cover, the old gasket and the dirko, but is it possible that I did something wrong? The leak suggests how the damn gasket would come off again. Oil is not leaking so high ...?

A question from an unusual category: I chipped this engine but gently up to 134 HP.
Due to possible higher pressure from the crankcase, is the system not making the bleeding and failing the gasket / cover gasket?



Thank you very much,

daster wrote:

I don't like when the engine is sweaty

It only remains to change the car brand if it is to be diesel.
The leak all over the back of the engine looks like it's from under the covers. No dirko, only a new gasket and the most important thing is thorough degreasing.

ociz wrote:

daster wrote:

I don't like when the engine is sweaty

It only remains to change the car brand if it is to be diesel.

Thank you for your response.
I do not agree that all VW or VAGs in a TDi have to sweat.

Buy a Honda

Dry TDI is in the factory before pouring olive oil

daras41 wrote:

Dry TDI is in the factory before pouring olive oil

Yes, but I know at least a few people (including me) who enjoy dry diesels from VW.
So not to generalize.

If the saliva was after chip tuning, first wash the engine thoroughly and check where the oil is coming from, whether it is under the oil pan or not under the valve cover.

PITERRR wrote:

If the saliva was after chip tuning, first wash the engine thoroughly and check where the oil is coming from, whether it is under the oil pan or not under the valve cover.

Thanks for the substantive information. The oil does not leak from the pan, but somewhere higher, it appears at the height of the exhaust manifold.

One more thing to the gentlemen above.
I used to have another 1.9 TDi on PD. Up to 210,000 km there was not even a sweat, the engine was clean, it was nice to look at.

Gentlemen, please tell me, is it possible that the oil on the pipe at the air outlet from the turbo to the intercooler (first and second photos) is oily due to purging of oil vapors? I don't know whether to make / buy oli catch tanka ...

I replaced the gasket under the valve cover, the oil is still on the back of the engine ;-(

The gasket did not roll up during installation, the leakage is further from the turbine side or at the top, as if from under the intake manifold pins?

PITERRR wrote:

The gasket did not roll up during installation, the leakage is further from the turbine side or at the top, as if from under the intake manifold pins?

The seal is unlikely to collapse. I gave the dirko in 4 places where it belongs (I put it in elsa).
There is a leak on the turbo, the pipe going to the intercooler is definitely sweating, but it's probably because of the pneumothorax (there is some oil there). I already bought an OCT and I will deal with it, but the problem is with the other side of the engine there from the timing, there is the goddamn oil there. It's hard to stick your head in, the DPF bothers which covers a large area of the block.
I will try to wash the valve cover properly from the top with engine cleaner, let this muck come off, see if it sweats further.

Wash it there thoroughly and if you have a mirror, you will see where it is leaking from.

Added after 37 [minutes]:

And as for the timing, either the seal on the shaft or the shaft without removing the cover will be difficult to locate the leak.

daster wrote:

we'll see if it sweats further

when you dry it after washing, sprinkle with potato flour you will see perfectly where it is flying from.

At 99%, you have a valve cover curve. It simply deforms under the influence of temperature in those corners where there are no mounting screws, i.e. at the back. Just put it on a flat surface and you can see everything clearly.
You have two options to choose from:
1. You shorten the cover screw sleeves by about 1 - 1.5 mm. Maybe it will be alright.
2. You are buying a new cover.

PS Instead of installing a catch tank, it was enough to replace the x-rings on the inlet hoses.

Thank you for your reply.

You wrote:

andexp wrote:

At 99%, you have a valve cover curve. It simply deforms under the influence of temperature in those corners where there are no mounting screws, i.e. at the back.

After all, there are mounting screws all over the perimeter ...

andexp wrote:

Just put it on a flat surface and you can see everything clearly.

If I get damned, I will disassemble it again and check it because I should have come up with it to check it out.

andexp wrote:

You have two options to choose from:
1. You shorten the cover screw sleeves by about 1 - 1.5 mm. Maybe it will be alright.
2. You are buying a new cover.

Here I can fall out of favor, but I installed mounting screws from another engine (1.9 TDI BLS), the height of the sleeves is identical, but with a gasket, instead of an allen key 10 weaves.

Here's a question: Is it possible to mount a different cover from another 1.9 tdi PD?

andexp wrote:

PS Instead of installing a catch tank, it was enough to replace the x-rings on the inlet hoses.

Here I was surprised ... The sealing of the intake hoses is different, and the ineffectiveness of the emphysema which releases the oil on the turbo and then the cooler, EGR and so on.

daster wrote:

ineffectiveness of pneumothorax

not ineffectiveness, only the engine blows in the crankcase, the locomotive lake.

andrzej20001 wrote:

daster wrote:

ineffectiveness of pneumothorax

not ineffectiveness, only the engine blows in the crankcase, the locomotive lake.

I know that, let him blow it, I just don't want him to blow oil ...

And then OCT will do, only the stench will be

Hello. As for the oil in the inlet, I would bet on a pneumothorax. In my 1.9 tdi ALH, I put on a new turbine, signed by garet, and curiosity that week I looked into the intake manifold and there is some oil there. As for the oil tank, be careful in winter, I once read an article that someone has frozen these snakes - how much truth I do not know, but it's a pity if he would make you a cuckoo.

You've done chipping, so now there is a higher dose of fuel, and thus the engine controller allows the turbine to pump more so that this fuel can burn completely. If the higher boost pressure, any leakage at the connection of the pipes causes the oil that spits the turbine to go out. These quick couplers that are in VW are always leaking and after treatments like yours it is especially true.

After the chip, the pneumothorax blows also increase, so the amount of oil increases. The mileage of the car is probably 180,000. km.

daras41 wrote:

After the chip, the pneumothorax blows also increase, so the amount of oil increases. The mileage of the car is probably 180,000. km.

180 thousand had it when i was buying it ;)

Added after 6 [minutes]:

bandi21 wrote:

You've done chipping, so now there is a higher dose of fuel, and thus the engine controller allows the turbine to pump more so that this fuel can burn completely. If the higher boost pressure, any leakage at the connection of the pipes causes the oil that spits the turbine to go out. These quick couplers that are in VW are always leaking and after treatments like yours it is especially true.

Generally, what you write makes sense and it's hard to disagree with it.
On the other hand, this oil is not enough to say that it is sweating. This is a leak.
The second thing is whether the oil in the cooler and suction lines is only with the turbo? ie, pneumothorax or other areas?

Hello,

Recently, I spent about 3 hours in the sewer washing and cleaning (I recommend a spray cleaner for clamps. No need to wipe with a rag because it evaporates). I figured it was more of a gasket under the valve cover.
After many attempts, the only thing left is to shorten the sleeves. I'm not gonna throw your cash on a new cover.
The question is how much to shorten 1.5 mm? and more important from which side? From the top or bottom side (here I am afraid that the smaller surface will be in contact with the head, the pressure will be more aggressive).
Thanks.,

daster wrote:

I recently spent about 3 hours in the sewer washing and cleaning

respect for self-denial. yes OT

andrzej20001 wrote:

daster wrote:

Recently, I spent about 3 hours in the sewer washing and cleaning

respect for self-denial. yes OT

This was due to the fact that 2 weeks ago I had a knee operation and jumping on one leg with a crutch is terribly time-consuming

That + 100% to the norm

daster wrote:

I replaced the gasket under the valve cover, the oil is still on the back of the engine ;-(

With these new gaskets, it's a lottery, a massacre, every second gasket leaked on the back of the first cylinder and poured.
Either too narrow or too thick.
I stopped using these new gaskets, I wash the old ones, degrease the silicone by 4 points and mount it.
And if it must be the original.
1.9 TDI BLS - I don't remember seeing a dry engine, something is always sweating somewhere, At least it is known that the oil is in the engine

klimosz wrote:

silicone for 4 points

The same is done when installing new ones.

I have already removed this cover so many times, cleaned it, degreased it, grinded it that now I can enter it into my CV.

Having a set of screws with rubber seals, I put a washer there, which meant that these screws could be screwed in a few more movements. So I did. I hit it and hey.
Upon returning, the engine was not sweating a lot, but was bleeding with oil. I had to clean the driveway with a rag. I have distorted this cover. With the naked eye it was noticeable that one side (top left) is strongly curved / bent upwards.
Fortunately, I managed to buy a new cover with a gasket and screws for a note: PLN 180 with the code 03G103469M (mine had a G at the end) It is from Seat and the gasket, although the same, covered the screws differently. Yesterday I degreased, I gave 4 points dirko, I turned according to the order according to ELSA and today I will check if the vomit continues.
By the way, I unscrewed the valve from the oil separator and quite a lot of it spilled because less than a hundred of oil but as thick as cold mineral oil - the OCT conclusion works.
In my opinion, the cover is poorly constructed. I have another cover for 1.9 tdi, maybe even bls because it fits my head and the gasket is thicker and higher there. It can be tightened more and the cover itself is more solid allowing for stronger pressure. Her photo attached to the file I attached. There are tightening sequences, moments. Maybe it will be useful to you.

I have a question here for you: My lid has an entrance at the top, some pressure hose, what is it?
What happens when I push it off? This is in case the cover is installed without this entrance.

Thanks.

.

daster wrote:

some pressure hose, what is it?

The second exit on the back of the lid is probably a vacuum reservoir