How to Wire a 4-Bulb LED Chandelier with a 3-Wire Network and Two-Button Wall Switch?

Hello,

three cables come out of the ceiling, a two-button wall switch.
I checked with a test tube, one cable is without voltage, two with voltage (in one the light of the test tube shines brighter in the other, and vice versa, depending on how the wall switch switches).


in addition to the chandelier set, I got a grounding element that is screwed to the chandelier


The question of how to connect the cables?
1. power supply from the ceiling under I and II - no matter what configuration and grounding under III or 3? (The 3 in the cube has a metal rod connected to the chandelier housing)
2. wash the cables 1,2 and connect another cube to the power supply from the ceiling, and the green-yellow one (additional part of the chandelier) to the third one, and III with the one that has no tension from the ceiling?

No offense, but you have no idea about the basics of electrical engineering. Call a specialist who will connect it within a minute.

After 1. The chandelier is not factory-adapted to the candlestick (ie two-button) switch. Retrofitting is possible, but requires proper wiring.

2. Yellow-green, ie the protective one, do not connect anywhere, because only the neutral wire (N) and two phase wires come out of the ceiling.

alojzy7719 wrote:

No offense, but you have no idea about the basics of electrical engineering. Call a specialist who will connect it within a minute.

After 1. The chandelier is not factory-adapted to the candlestick (ie two-button) switch.
2. Yellow-green, ie the protective one, is not connected anywhere, because only the neutral wire (N) and two phase wires (separated by the aforementioned candlestick connector) come out of the ceiling.

I do not have to admit, living in an old block of flats, I found a chandelier in the basement that I wanted to connect only for a while, it is important to have some brightness in the living room during renovation, the electrical installation will be replaced.
it can be powered by one switch does not matter to me. So how to connect it so that it works at all on one switch?

Zero (the one without voltage) to N, phase (that is, with voltage) to L. Nothing else. Also secure the second phase wire protruding from the ceiling so that it does not accidentally touch the chandelier's "cup".

Moderated By Łukasz-O:

The chandelier is made in protection class I. The suggested method of connection is dangerous and presents a risk of electric shock.
3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.

Buddy, this luminaire is made in protection class I, so it requires a protective conductor. So invite a kumaty electrician who will know how to connect it, not only that it shines, but that it is not a threat above all.

And now PROFESSIONALS, there is no protective wire, the chandelier can not be connected to the store.

Hajna wrote:

And now PROFESSIONALS, there is no protective wire, the chandelier can not be connected to the store.

Not necessarily.
The chandelier can still be reset if the installation is properly made (the switch breaks L).

alojzy7719 wrote:

Zero (the one without voltage) to N, phase (that is, with voltage) to L. Nothing else. Also secure the second phase wire protruding from the ceiling so that it does not accidentally touch the chandelier's "cup".

Ok works thanks!

mielas86 wrote:

Ok works thanks!

Have you checked the SWZ (required) condition?
The luminaire is not dangerous?

Łukasz-O wrote:

Not necessarily.
The chandelier can still be reset if the installation is properly made (the switch breaks L).

I was once warned for a similar claim. Apparently the moderator can, and the User can't.

kkas12 wrote:

mielas86 wrote:

Ok works thanks!

Have you checked the SWZ (required) condition?
The luminaire is not dangerous?

and how to do it ? meter? I touched the casing and I do not copy, I will say so ugly, I will add that the cables are copper from the ceiling, I carefully insulated one phase cable and put the rest safely in the ankle, the chandelier will not be touched for a month during the renovation.

xury wrote:

I was once warned for a similar claim. Apparently the moderator can, and the User can't.

Somehow in your profile history I don't see the warning for "resetting the chandelier".
In the big disc, and the author lives in this one, no TT circuits were used, only TN.
Hence, in the case of an old installation, resetting a chandelier made in protection class I is the only solution.

Łukasz-O wrote:

Hence, in the case of an old installation, resetting a chandelier made in protection class I is the only solution.

Only that the author, following the unfortunate advice from post # 4, did not make the connection so that it was safe and only shone.

What he wrote xury it is a fact that one advises to reset the lamp, they will whip it, another will "spit"

mawerix123 wrote:

the author, following the unfortunate advice from post # 4, did not make the connection to be safe, but only to shine.

People! Stop wondering! The guy doesn't have a clue about the basics, and you keep him from taking measurements. How can you be sure that he would not make a bridge from phase to protection by mistake?

mawerix123 wrote:

What he wrote xury it is a fact that one advises to reset the lamp, they will whip it, another will "spit"

In that case, please indicate in which topic. If the alert was issued incorrectly, it will be canceled.
Only, please, submit your complaints not in this thread.

mawerix123 wrote:

Only that the author, following the unfortunate advice from post # 4, did not make the connection so that it was safe and only shone.

This cannot be hidden. The lamp is working but it is dangerous.

Łukasz-O wrote:

The lamp is working but it is dangerous.

How can you be sure that he would not make a bridge from phase to protection by mistake?

Added after 12 [minutes]:

Dear author

I am sorry for unprofessional help and I am withdrawing what I wrote. From now on, before you connect anything (even a bedside lamp), do SEP qualifications (at least E1) and get a short circuit loop meter and an inductor.

I am sending greeting and I wish you good luck

alojzy7719 wrote:

How can you be sure that he would not make a bridge from phase to protection by mistake?

You must be mocking yourself now.

alojzy7719 wrote:

How can you be sure that he would not make a bridge from phase to protection by mistake?

Buddy, how can you be sure that the insulation in this chandelier is technically efficient and there is no puncture on the housing?

If you do not have the appropriate knowledge and experience, you need to ask an electrician for help and not be a hero in your home.
Connecting N to the housing is not zeroing. This zeroing is the connection of the neutral wire to the terminal intended for electric shock protection.
The author has connected the system and does not know whether it is safe or not. We know it is not, because the device made in the first protection class does not have a protective conductor connected.

It's just that it works and nothing else.

I am closing, and I suggest the author to change the chandelier to one made in the second class of protection or call an electrician who will connect this chandelier properly, if it can be done.