VW Polo 3 1.4 MPI - The engine works on 3 cylinders (Check engine mryga)

After firing at hearing, you can hear that the engine is working on 3 cylinders (I think so) and feel the fuel which probably is not burned out.
I write this in the electronics forum because I read the errors that I already put here:
These errors were after 1 connection:


After firing for a moment it was:


With a longer engine running it showed such errors:

Before the jerks, new candles were replaced, but the ignition cables were what they were before.
I would like to add that earlier as I was driving, it jerked sometimes (probably the disappearance of the spark), as I sprayed the cable glass cleaner on the cable (you could see a puncture especially on cylinder 1 (and a bit on another).

I'm afraid that it could be a coil now because he would walk on 3 cylinders all the time.

Please tell me how can I check it?
And how can I look at the coil?

If there are sparks on HV cables, they must be replaced.
If it doesn't work on the first cylinder, swap wires 1 and 4 with each other.
Then 4 should stop working and walk first.
Register the program because it does not give descriptions for errors.

Cables listed The car rides

The only problem is that at idle (idle) it sometimes jerks or temporarily stops one cylinder.
And even while driving it can happen.

Once as it happened and such moved cables around the coil it suddenly improved (at this point) later again the same happened.


I am still thinking about the quality of the fuel (because it is the cheapest station in the area) and someone who once said that after this fuel the car did not have such power.

There, the coil gives a spark to cylinder 1, 4 and 2, 3 at the same time, so there is no option that the control of the coil will be missing and one cylinder will stop working, as already two.
Clear errors and read them again when CHECK appears. If the loss of ignition applies to cylinders in pairs (1.4 or 2.3), the coil is damaged or it is not controlled. It is controlled from the engine controller (ECU). Since moving the wires helps it does not connect on the connector or broken wire.

What exactly is the engine? I had a Polo 3 (6N) 1.4 MPI (AEX) and there was one coil and a traditional splitter ... judging by the errors it is an AUD motor (with a double bipolar coil) but I don't really believe this program.

AUD 1.4 MPI 60HP (44kW) engine. 2001

The cables replaced and the problem persists, I am going to feel that for a moment the engine work in one cylinder is interrupted.
This also happens at a stop.
As for now, these are 1-2 second or shorter breaks (Earlier it was at a standstill that the interruption of engine smoothness was interrupted and several seconds.)
I hope it's the fuel's fault (I will go as far and then to another station after Pb) because if not it costs again

The cables are new but I might also check them:
.

After driving 88 km, he threw out errors:
The coil looks like this: (I will add that when I sprayed the windscreen liquid around the coil and cables, you could see the spark that jumped from the cable to the coil in the marked place. Before replacing the cables there was also sparking even as I put other cables in. Only it was in a larger or to a lesser extent) - this refers to cylinder no. 4 (rightmost engine viewed from the front of the car)

Poor quality cables.
You have an open circuit between the coil and the engine control unit.
Check the wires and plug to the coil.
The motor driver pins that control the coil are 57 and 71. Check their continuity using a 55W bulb.
Coil plug pins:
1 control of coil A
2 plus after the ignition
3 controlling the coil B
4 mass
The coil is double and therefore there is A and B.

I am sorry but I am not sure how to check it carefully because I did not understand how to connect with each other.
Could you tell me which one to connect with (55W bulb)?

For the bulb to light it must be connected to the plus and minus of the battery.
You disconnect the battery, disconnect the motor control connector, disconnect the coil plug.
You give a plus to pin 57 of the motor control plug and minus to pin 71 of the motor control plug. You connect the bulb to pins 1 and 3 of the ignition coil plug.
The bulb is to be lit, you can also move the wires when the coil plug is on.

The second way is to give a plus to the bulb from the battery, give a minus to the 57 pin of the engine control plug and the other pole of the bulb under pin 1 or 3 of the ignition coil plug.
Later the same with pin 71 (instead of 57) of the motor control plug.

So you use the tested cable to power the bulb.
This is done for this reason, over time the meter shows that it is ok and there is a large voltage drop under load.
For example, the meter shows 12V and the bulb barely shines because there is a drop, e.g. 6V.

Coil rather for replacement in a set with branded cables. If it strikes directly from the spark exit terminal, it will always be there, the discharge leaves a burnt path on the surface of the coil and it will shoot like this.

grala1 wrote:

So you use the tested cable to power the bulb.

So this test is to check whether the wires and contacts and pins that supply current to the coil (from the motor controller -> through wires and pins)
Because you can't check the coil in this test?

andrzej20001 wrote:

If it strikes directly from the spark exit terminal, it will always be there, the discharge leaves a burnt path on the surface of the coil and it will shoot like this.

Is it possible to insulate this path somehow on the coil surface or to insulate the cable more?

Replacing the set is effective.

When I put on one old cable for 4 cylinders and when I was driving the car did not want to go sometimes and the check flashed for a moment.

The error crashed the same 17765 (meaning that the cables also have something in common here)