Renault Megane II phII 1.6 16V - 1 timing change after purchase and what else?

Hello, I have a Megane II ph II 1.6 16V K4M engine in the year 2006, before the first timing replacement after purchase and I have a few questions.

What should you buy and replace? I searched the forum and summarized:
1. Timing set (belt, guide roller, tension roller, screw)
2. Wheel of variable valve timing
3. Water pump
4. Two camshaft caps - what? are they in sets when buying a complete timing, can you ask for a link?

5. I read that it is good to buy and replace the camshaft sealers - what? request for a link
6. Refrigerant, fuel filter, oil, oil

Recently I noticed sweating on the connection of the plastic thermostat housing, or replace the gasket with the mechanic immediately. Can you do it yourself?
I also have a leak from under the intake manifold (seal between the valve cover and suction manifold) it is necessary to replace one gasket No. 8200236726 and four gaskets No. 8200275057 there. Can it be done when the timing is replaced, is the cover pulled when the timing is changed?

Please help....

I also suggest replacing the accessories drive kit, such as: multi-grooved belt and tensioner and brake fluid. Parts I recommend the original (prices as replacements and quality decent). I think that if a mechanic will exchange liquid anyway, let him make a gasket.

Buy a complete timing kit then you have everything INA 530 0639 30

The basis and the most important thing is the belt pulley on the shaft with the belt. The cycle of variable phases is not necessarily how you do not hear it when you start the car after a long stop. As the course of the suggested car returning to this wheel on the shaft. if the wheel is vulcanised it will damage the timing belt and then it is not fun when it comes to the cost. the wheel also need to pay attention what is because it is in 1.6 ok 3 types known to me and one of them is very defective the rest less.

piotrek121ol wrote:

Hello, I have a Megane II ph II 1.6 16V K4M engine in the year 2006, before the first timing replacement after purchase and I have a few questions.

Take to a trusted mechanic and let him mention what he thinks is right.

Thanks, gentlemen, for your answers.
I will buy a tensioner and a multi-groove belt and a pulley.
The course of 180,000 km (mileage confirmed).

I am asking for advice when choosing a part:
The whole set of orig Renault timing belt (2 rollers, belt, bolt and pin) + KZFR + water pump + end caps
Reference - 1 set
Complete set timing belt (2 rollers, belt, bolt and pin) original Renault + KZFR orig Renault + Dolz water pump + end caps
Reference - 2 set
Is it like a moto-kord wrote a set to buy, for example, from INA. Timing belt (2 rollers, end caps, screw) + water pump. And here I would have to mull KZFR separately.
Reference - 3 set

Now the remaining:
Camshaft seal link
Pulley link I do not know which wheel exactly for my model. I do not know what kind of wheelbar to write a camiloscope?
Tensioner + strap and roll link

and another question about oil, previously on the site was oil 5W40, I also 15,000km ago flooded Elf Evolution Sxr 5W40 5L.
Do you pour the same 5W40 or 10W40 oil again?

Is there anything else, please help and suggestions ...

A friend's wheel on a shaft followed by a multi-groove belt which drives the alternator and compressor. The best way to do it is the photo that sits there with you.

Fill 5 in 40 on this you will not save.
greetings

It is not about saving, just which oil is better for the engine
I forgot to add the model meganki index ie BM1R

5w40 is better

If the electromagnetic valve controlling the wheel of variable phases will not work properly, it will eventually damage the wheel of variable phases. Changing the solenoid valve is very easy, just clean the place around it first before you take it out, so that the trash does not fall inside. As for the engine oil, use oil with a lower viscosity of 5 in 30 in the ACEA A5 class (possibly A3 - if you burn the engine or drive at high speeds on the highway) or 0 in 30 due to the principle of variable valve timing. The "thick" oil, especially in winter, flows too slowly through the solenoid valve (in which the fine sieve is mounted) and consequently does not reach the variable-phase wheel quickly enough. It is also important to keep the oil level close to the maximum. The use of oil with a maximum viscosity of 5w30 in VVT engines is a general recommendation of all car manufacturers. Renault in the manual for Megane III 1.6 also recommends 5W30 A5 oil in the first place, in the instructions for megane II they recommended 5W40 A3 in the first place, and as an alternative 5w30 A5, because they did not know what is better for KZFR.

Once all the materials are in place, I would advise you to learn about changing the timing belt in such an engine.

The solenoid valve has already been replaced with a new original because of other symptoms ... as for the oil it is with all respect griszka85 but I will stay at 5W40 exactly Elf Evolution Sxr 5W40 5L.
As for the exchange itself, I will commission it to a mechanic who deals mainly with Renault.

Only I got a choice, that as I want I can buy parts myself, or they will buy and exchange what I need. That's why I preferred to advise myself what and how to buy and replace .....

I know from experience that they sometimes change the timing, for example, without kzfr because it is still good. In a year or two, it's raining and you have to download it again. therefore, I preferred to ask you what to change, at the same time to have peace of mind for 5 years for the next timing change.

as I wrote above, in conclusion I am going to mention:

1. The whole set of orig Renault timing belt (2 rollers, belt, bolt and pin, end caps)
2. FUND
3. Water pump
4. Pulley
5. Tensioner + roll
6. Filter, air, Anti-dust, Fuel and oil filter,
7. Engine oil, brake fluid, coolant.

Piotrek121ol, did you see this sieve on the electrovalve of variable phases? What are the first symptoms of a SWF damage? Terkoce for a few to a dozen or so seconds after firing a cold engine ... hmm interesting, right? The factory-standard Renault RN0700 for non-naturally-aspirated gasoline oils performs both 5w40 A3 and 5w30 as well as 0w30 oils in the ACEA A3 and A5 classes. The ELF SXR900 5w30 ACEA A5 oil has the official RN0700 approval and is recommended for Megane III 1.6 (K4M - the same as for you in MII). If you are afraid of oils with an HTHS index below 3.5, buy 5w30 in class A3 (HTHS usually 3.5-3.6) eg Texaco, Gulf, Valvoline, Lotos, because ELF does not offer any 5w30 oil in A3 class, but it's in class C3 - it can also be (HTHS> 3.5).
The elf only offers "Synthetic Technology / Synthe Technology" oils, "made in synthetic technology" or simply hydrocracked (third group of base oils), synthetic oils are the 4th group (PAO) and V (Esters). Concern Total / Elf and so should be applauded because it does not cheat like Castrol and does not write on the hydrocracker "full syntetic / 100% synthetic".
Toyota and Ford recommend 5w20 A1 / A5 oils for their variable-speed engines, but they produce engines that are very tight fit.

5w40 at -17oC has a honey consistency, organoleptically checked.

So in summary, 5w40 can be but better to pour 5w30 eg ELF SXR900 5w30?
Only you see I decided to stay at 5w40, the current course I have over 180,000 and the last three changes were at 5w40. I used to read and consider changing the oil, now I do not know ...
As for the rattle, in fact on the old valve was such a symptom, but I decided to replace it after the car in 1 gear without adding gas tugged me instead of driving at a steady speed and it happened that the car went out right after firing. After the replacement, the above symptoms have disappeared.

Manufacturer's recommendations for your engine
Engine oil SAE 0W-30 RN0700 Above -30 ° C
Engine oil SAE 0W-40 RN0700 Above -30 ° C
Engine oil SAE 5W-30 RN0700 Above -25 ° C
Motor oil SAE 5W-40 RN0700 Over -25 ° C
Motor oil SAE 10W-40 RN0700 Above -25 ° C

I flooded the Gulf 5w30 A5 to my megane II 1.6, the previous owner in Holland poured over the Elf 10w40 with a change every 10-12 kkm (invoices from services). unfortunately, I replaced the scattered KZF. The oil practically does not diminish (every engine takes some oil), the imperfections are not noticeable on the dipstick. I drive mainly on short distances of 8-10 km and the oil will not even have time to warm up to working temperature. If you are afraid of light oil, choose one in the ACEA A3 or C3 class. This 5w30 oil is just to extend the life of the SFC, because it does not make much difference to the engine itself.
Technologies are changing, Polonaises, Fiats after 100 kkm have already been badly worn, and western cars manufactured 10-15 years ago with such a course were only just arrived. Unfortunately, misconceptions and myths still persist in society. Car engines have increasingly thin oil channels, so they must be flooded with oils of lower viscosity. There are already oils 0w16 and even 0w12 on the market dedicated to the latest hybrids.

Well, let me tell you that you gave me some food for thought and I'm dotted Whether under the influence of high temperature (revolutions over 3 thousand and driving above 120 km / h) in the 100-300 km route, 5W30 oil does not become less frequent. Is it not better to flood 5W40 with this course and such driving as I wrote above? In fact, every morning (summer-winter) I make a short route of 9km to work + return, but during the weekend I do long routes and during the year I do 20,000 km.
Which 5W30 oils meet the standard of my car do you recommend? I found:
ELF SXR900 A5
Gulf 5w30 A5
Motul 8100 ECO-NERGY
Shell Helix Ultra

It's a low-noise 5w30 ACEA A3 with HTHS> 3.5, i.e. like 5w40. You do not have to stick rigidly to the RN0700 standard because there is nothing special in it, it's not a VW with pumped-in, that it must be WV 500-somehow. With such resources between exchanges, I would rather aim for oils from the higher price range Amsoil, Millers, Lotos QUAZAR, Penrite, Eneos, Liqui Molly, Megiun.
I exchange oil once a year every 5,000. km so pours those cheaper. The expensive oil from the cheap differs mainly because it is slower to degrade.

EDIT:
Instead of ACEA A3 oil, you can choose ACEA C3 (midSAPS - medium ash), because the A3 oil is limited choice, and C3 will get better for the catalyst, unfortunately for the engine it is slightly worse (less anti-wear and neutralizing additives).

We suggest using the "Choose your oil" browser on the Gulf website. This is a tool that will indicate the products available in the GULF offer for specific applications: engine, gears, cooling system, as well as the selection of lubricants (please check the description of the engine, because the browser indicates a different model Renault - Fluence 1.6 16V)