NAC W510 VHY - The mower drive does not work

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You could have repaired the NAC W510 VHY mower drive --- my teeth have formed in the transmission - I put in a repair kit and nothing turns on the spring drive of the cable and the transmission gear put on correctly, a new wedge belt was put on. Maybe the rope is stretched because the adjustment on the cord does not give anything.
Is the distance between the disc wheel and the attacking roller too long, even at maximum pressure the teeth do not engage?


How do you have such a transmission give a photo or diagram how to properly assemble the whole because it looks like something is missing here?

This transmission has no internal clutch. The gear teeth (the attacking roller and the disk wheel) are fixed. The clutch's role is played by the angle of inclination of the gear relative to the mower housing. When the engine is running without the drive engaged (the drive lever on the mower handle is not pressed), the gearbox is slightly inclined towards the mower housing and does not tighten the V-belt. When the drive lever is pressed, the cable pulls the transmission from the mower housing. This results in tensioning the V-belt and transferring the drive from the engine to the transmission and further to the wheels.
An important element of this clutch system is the state of so-called "half-cylinders" on the inside of the plastic belt cover. In the case of excessive rubbing of these half-carriers, the belt may not be loosened in the right way, which may lead to faster wear and also to destruction (overheating) of the transmission's plastic pulley.

I do not know why you are constantly modifying your subject post and why you have removed your answer to my first post. These activities are unnecessary and may unnecessarily mislead other readers.

I give the order of the elements in the transmission (from the left side as in the photo you place):

1 / sleeve with flange;
2 / round washer: internal diameter = the diameter of the axle, outer diameter = the diameter of the disc wheel hub, i.e. the part of the wheel through which the disc wheel is attached to the axle by means of an expansion pin;
3 / disc wheel;
4 / needle bearing thrust bearing;
5 / outer raceway of the thrust bearing;
6 / spring;
7 / sleeve with flange.

The pos.2 pad in my opinion regulates the distance between the teeth of the disk wheel and the shaft. Its thickness does not exceed 1 mm. The attack roller is mounted permanently - its position in the housing and at the same time in relation to the disk wheel are determined by the segera rings (external on the shaft and internal in the gear housing.

For me in the transmission:

1) Collet sleeve
2) disc wheel
3) washer equal to the inside diameter of the disk wheel
4) needle bearing of the thrust bearing
5) spring
6) sleeve with a collar




Added after 15 [minutes]:

In this arrangement, I do not have:
2 / round washer: internal diameter = the diameter of the axle, outer diameter = the diameter of the disc wheel hub, i.e. the part of the wheel through which the disc wheel is attached to the axle by means of an expansion pin;
and
5 / outer raceway of the thrust bearing;

And what does it look like: the outer race of the thrust bearing; same as the needle bearing of the thrust bearing

Therefore, the pad (in your No. 3) has to be translated to the left side of the wheel.
In the newest picture, you showed the surface of the disk wheel, to which the thrust bearing (wreath with needles) adheres. This wreath should have its "shield" on the spring side. The spring can not directly touch the needle pins. This "cover" is just the outer race of the bearing. Has an outside diameter comparable to the diameter of the bearing. It looks more or less like this ] Link .

So since the news was a wrongly complex gear, for this reason my teeth have clogged so quickly - I am getting ready for repairs tomorrow
I will write if everything works

Added after 3 [hours] 5 [minutes]:

However, something is wrong, I put it together according to the instructions, but the drive does not turn on - it's a bad thing

Added after 48 [minutes]:

A second drive gear would be useful for inspection
I have already had 2 elements with the gearbox once

tomek132111 wrote:

However, something is wrong, I put it together according to the instructions, but the drive does not turn on - it's a bad thing

Inside this gear, nothing is attached. After correctly assembling it from all elements, there is constant engagement. I wrote about it above. All necessary elements are given in the points in the proper order.
The previous entries indicated that you did not have a bearing treadmill. Do you already have it?
It's best if you take such a photo of the interior of the transmission again as in your 1st post, only without grease, because you will not see the details.

1) collet with a collar;
2 / round washer
3 / disc wheel;
4 / needle bearing thrust bearing; - I mounted the convex side on the outside - should it be a convex side inwards?
5 / outer raceway of the thrust bearing;
6 / spring;
7 / sleeve with flange









Added after 12 [minutes]:

There is still too much distance between the modes must overlap - you will need to insert one more washer from the side of the gear?

Generally, it's getting better. As for the question about point 4, I will answer indirectly. The surface on which the bearing needles move must be flat. Otherwise, the needles would be damaged.

The washer No. 2 has, according to me, a large diameter. It may interfere with the installation of the lower gear cover. Essentially, this washer should have an outside diameter such as the diameter of the adjacent element - where the dowel is stuck.

The pin should not protrude - it should have a length equal to the diameter of the circle in which it is stuck. If you can not drive it to the end, you have to remove it, hold the axis and turn the wheel 180 degrees and try to drive it in this position.

It seems that the axis with the wheel is lowered. These flanged bushes should form a uniform surface with the housing. Match them lightly and check the meshing. You can also screw the bottom cover.

An additional pad on the left may be necessary.
I understand that the attack roller is mounted correctly - for a peace of mind, it can be easily tapped on the side of the plastic V-belt.

Kosiara is walking two washers, smaller diameter I inserted, I also exchanged sleeves with a collar - in addition I made a pear-shaped washer under the gear cover because the original was too thin and the toothed wheel rubbed from the inside now has not shortened yet the link to the transmission gears because too much stretched but it's no longer a problem a stronger spring I used inside the transmission itself and I replaced the bearing at the attacking shaft because it had a slight beating. The gearbox, generally wrongly assembled by the mower of the lawnmower, was replaced in the opposite direction, the lack of washers contributed to the wear of the sprocket and the attacker's shaft. I think about the subject as closed if you have any questions, I will answer

Maybe it will be useful to someone.
I would like to describe here my struggle with the drive of lawn mower. The above colleagues' entries regarding problems with the drive differential are so precise that nothing more can be added, which is why I will focus on driving the drive directly from the axle to the mower's wheels, because as I will show further - this can be quite a problem. I inherited the combustion mower (the name of the company-engine B & S 625 series with a drive). They gave it to me because the drive did not work, and the owner had enough pushing not a lightweight mower. Mower was on the site and supposedly - it was impossible to repair, so the service technician suggested disconnecting the drive so that you can push the mower, to which the previous owner reluctantly but agreed. It turned out that he simply unclipped the pin from the left half-axle right next to the small sprocket and after the competition. I decided to get to this mechanism. Mechanism of transmission seemed to me simple, after pulling the drive cables, half-axles - at the end of which the bolts are inserted laterally (no wedges), they hook on special notches in small toothed wheels, and those in turn meshed with a large wheel from the mower, cause the mower going. Unfortunately, the service technician did not give the bolt-by disassembling the drive, so I had to undo the right wheel to view this miracle. I took the dimensions and cut the same bolt (taking its oval shape at the ends), and to my surprise, the effect was miserable - the wheels alternately tried to propel the mower - the word "tried" is still overgrown, just mower barely beat 1 m. On YT I found only one movie about such problems with mowers and so it turned out that there my friend showed drive for wedges and I am a cross pin, so I came to experiment on a living organism, although in principle the operation is similar. After cutting the next pins (different dimensions) - I would like to point out that without machining their ends, it suddenly turned out that the drive came to life. After a thorough analysis, I came to the conclusion that this surviving pin (original from the right wheel) was simply "machined at the ends" by a harder gear - and by the nature it slid on the gears without moving the drive from the axle each time, thus its original shape it should be straight cut at the ends. then it tightly engages with the small wheel - moving the wheel drive perfectly. The two bolts so made - (I will add a diameter of 5 mm, necessarily !!! and the length of the experimentally chosen in my case is = 2.2 cm) already a year work in the drive without a lot of problems. To lubricate this connection, I did not use solid lubricant but a silicone spray lubricant, I greet all DIY enthusiasts.

Welcome. Well, the bolts used in mowers with propulsion are some EMERGENCY - as if they were made of lead. I bought a kind of repair kit with hardened pins but it's also a putty. good that I have a lawn mower tractor

You are right, the pins are weak, but the manufacturer's intention should be taken into account - it means that all such connections, be it a wedge or pin, must be softer than the wheel with the studs they work in, otherwise the circle will also die from the inside and that would be a more serious problem. I started my experiments with a pin made of a nail of this diameter. After mowing about 300 m2, I undressed the wheels and I already noticed the traces of making the edges on the pins, delicate - so such a "patent" probably would withstand half the season Finally, I have cut the bolts from the parts between the head and the thread, they are definitely harder than the nail, and I just hope they do not make gears. I am going to mow in a month (the whole is about 2.5 thousand m / kw), I think that a tiny review after mowing will reveal how it works.

You know, the bolts are solid in Honda with an aluminum carriage I saw in this cross-section the RELIABILITY gear - but the price of PLN 6,000 scares off. GOOD WORK and not clashing gears write how it works I have to mow about 45 ares is what to act on, I have two string trimmer kits I can handle on a regular basis, mower suitcase pushing with a Tecumseh engine - all service technicians in the state bought old stocks of these engines because they are unbreakable - I mowed it with a mower from 1000 hours and the engine does not want to break down - I exchanged only 4 trolleys for the engine

Hey! Tell me how to take out the mower axis (for me NAC S510VH) to replace the transmission components? I have wiped the sliding parts that connect the axle with the gear housing and catch the slack which causes the drive to disengage. I did it temporarily by putting a Seger washer behind the wheel, but maybe if I managed to get these bushes somewhere, I would exchange them for new ones. I'm not sure how to take the axle out of the drive mechanism. I guess you have to knock out the bearings that are at the ends of the axles, but I tried unsuccessfully.

Hi, I'm sorry to write in the old topic but maybe someone will help, I have a problem with the mower with the same drive, no reaction to the drive levers. I started everything, but still nothing . I noticed that the V-belt is stretched, is it possible?

How to remove the bearings from the NAC axis

Although the last post is quite old, I am going through this myself and for posterity. My mower is NAC S510VHY from 2009. After disassembling the segments securing the bearings, the drive axle should be knocked out of the wheel axle seats. I grabbed the seat of the wheel axle with a vice and, gently hitting the axle of the gearbox, first knocked out the bearing with the axle on one side and then on the other. The bearing designation in the center is 6001RS.