[Solved] Castel Garden TCP102 hydro tractor - stops when driving backwards

Hello everyone
I own a tractor as in the title, B&S 15 single cylinder engine. I bought it 3 years ago used, this year there was a problem with driving backwards in fact it was already suspicious but somehow it was driving. Forward is OK - at least I think so. The problem starts when I want to reverse, already a small obstacle causes the tractor to stop. When I still have a full basket it is over, it stands and will not budge.
I have another question, what kind of starter for this type of engine. The bendix does not mesh, if I turn my hand and raise the sprocket a little, it spins without a problem.I have seen on auctions such a repair kit, but I do not know what kind and whether it makes sense.
Thanks in advance for your help.

If the system is vented or there is an oil shortage, will it drive forward and there will be problems when driving backward? Where should I start?
Maybe these are trivial questions but I don't have anyone locally who can deal with this, I asked car mechanics but they spread their hands.

Hello I was most worried about what you wrote in the last sentence. I suspect that replacing the box is a high cost probably close to the price of the whole tractor ( I bought for 3000 zl) and is it obtainable. New expensive vs used- not sure I will replace with a good one.
Tomorrow I will try to check the lever. How to check the oil ? should I do it as you write in the thread https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2284565.html
The brake I checked does not lock, unless it can only lock when driving backwards.
What about the oil I do not know how this mower was used before I bought it. At my place it doesn't run more than an hour at a time, working on flat terrain . May try to change the oil only for what , how and how much? And probably there will be a problem with bleeding the box. Please give me more advice.
Hopefully I can get on with my business tomorrow.

Thanks a lot and just out of curiosity how much can a new box for such a tractor cost, There are no prices on the site given and what kind of box can it be?

I found such an inscription engraved on the case: Tecumsech Products Peerless DIV Salem in 47167. And one more thing I fired up the mower today and checked how it drives and interestingly enough the backward drive even went up a fairly steep hill, now I recall that the problems with the reverse drive are exacerbated after prolonged operation (something with the oil?) I looked all around the box and it seems to be dry everywhere.
I also took some pictures but this is the first time I'm posting on the forum so I don't know what will come out.

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Today I was mowing the grass as I fired up the mower it backwards drove up every hill in my garden after I finished mowing ie after about an hour of driving I could no longer drive up the same hill.
How to check the oil level and is it possible to change the oil in the box and how to do it?

Hello
I have a new problem with my tractor, now it does not go forward or backward. But the problem is of a different nature simply the V-belt broke. I need information on what belt will fit here and where, if any, to buy it. When I'm ordering I'm most likely to replace both V-belts. Unfortunately, the old one fell apart into small pieces and there is no way to check anything.

Unfortunately, my problem is not so simple. The phone given in the link above is silent as a grave, emails unanswered. I found another parts site. A nice lady answered, but to help me she needs the production date of my tractor because there are several possible belts for this model (at least that's what she claims). I searched all over the tractor, but I couldn't find a specific production date. Maybe it is somehow coded in the serial number or somewhere else it is still placed????

I am full of appreciation for your knowledge of the subject. I sincerely thank you. I am running to watch the engine in my tractor.

I accidentally found your problem, the answer is lack of cooling of the box. You have damaged fan blades (the one above the transmission shaft pulley).
After 15 minutes I suspect that it loses power and there is nothing to move, reverse will hardly work for lack of power (after reverse you feel the lack of power the most, you may have a problem even with a slight bump) . The oil in the box loses its density by which and efficiency. Use a leaf blower (strong) and all the blower directed at the hydrostatic transmission - remove the flap over the transmission and aim the air there ), you will see that the tractor will work like new all the time as long as there is good cooling - if you turned on the blower on the unheated transmission.

Another problem and a similar diagnosis is the "harmonica" in the box responsible for allocating space in the box for heated oil (as is known then increases its volume), often breaks through which a hole (on the left - sitting - side side visible after removing the side flap) flows out. It is possible to unscrew the plate, clean and glue the diaphragm, but this is a way for the short term.
This problem manifests itself similarly but you can also smell the oil.

If you have been driving without oil then it probably lost irretrievably (unless you fix it yourself) a couple of nice percent of performance.
If you find a leak or oil under the box then replace it, it is not difficult but laborious and tedious to do it yourself.


If I found the cause then write, write an answer, in this model it is worth installing an expansion tank.
Hope this post will also help others.


Greetings

Thanks a lot for your help. I looked at the transmission and didn't see any oil leaks. What you write about with the fan is likely because it loses power after about 30 minutes of driving. I checked the fan and I have the impression that it works but maybe it is not enough. As of today I can't check much because my V-belt broke and I'm waiting for a delivery. I put the tractor under the shed and am waiting and on top of that the air went out yesterday- I put a new tire on but it is escaping somewhere on the rim.
Write how you can check if this fan is working properly because driving with a vacuum cleaner is rather out. When I put up I have to remove the housing and I'll take a close look to see if there are any oil leaks. As for changing or refilling the oil is a bigger issue. I can handle a lot of things but I would need a more detailed manual.

Under the pulley should be a fan, check that the blades are whole.
In this box it is difficult to check the oil level because there is no expansion tank. The easiest way is to change the oil, as I remember correctly according to the instructions is 5w50, I myself have such poured.
To change:

Under the box (you have to remove the scythe) you have a rubber plug, when you pull it will spill oil.
On the right side in the box you have a screwed plate with a hole unscrew it (you need an asterisk with a hole in the middle)
When you remove the plate a diaphragm will appear (harmonics as I wrote earlier)
Remove it clean (outside and inside) carefully check that it is tight.
Now you will need someone to help, unless you can do it yourself
Tilt the tractor so that the opening is as horizontal as possible (be careful because fuel may flow out of the tank)
When you manage to set the tractor so that the opening is as horizontal as possible, pour in oil so 3/4 (you can turn the pulley), insert the diaphragm (it may spill a little).
Tighten everything up, wipe it down and do a test drive.

Thanks a lot for the advice but as of today I'm standing still and can't do anything. The drive belt broke and I am waiting for the second week for delivery. I called everyone whose bearings I found on the Internet and everywhere the same thing - I have to wait. I already have information that it is prepared for shipment so maybe by the end of the week it will arrive.
Is this oil you write about is available at gas stations? I read somewhere that when changing or topping up the oil, it is very easy to air up the gearbox and then there are problems. Any comments to avoid this?

This is the usual 5W55 synthetic oil so you may get but in an automotive store for sure. Do as I wrote, it is not easy but the best method.
I have an expansion tank inserted so after warming up it will still vent a little and after cooling down it is already vented.

Hello
I had an identical problem with my client's tractor, identical symptoms: started mowing everything ok, after a while not moving, only helped by turning off the engine and waiting a few minutes?(but not for long enough). The machine was serviced by the workshop before the season so it was not known what was. Only the mechanic admitted that when they changed the oil (actually they added a little) they did not change the filter. After changing the filter and oil it laughs all the way. If you bought a used tractor then certainly no one in it has changed either the oil or the filter, so even if it is not necessary (which I doubt!) it still needs to be done from time to time so you lose nothing and changing the oil and filter is certainly cheaper than replacing the box.

Hello
I am getting down to this replacement like a dog to a hedgehog. I already had the time, the battery discharged, went down for a few days, I look and here there is no air in the wheel. What filter
are you writing about? Where is it?

I do not know exactly because I am only a user - not a mechanic. For this the machine I wrote about is a Yanmar 18 km, but the symptoms exactly as you described (that's why I took the liberty to describe the cause of the problem). I can't tell you where and if there is a gear oil filter in your machine at all, but I know one thing: I had the same problems as you and after replacing the oil with a new one (I didn't do it) the tractor runs like a small racer. Good luck!!!

Hello.I have inflated the wheel and will wait. I looked at my box and somehow I don't really see where there is a place to pour the oil, I hope you don't have to remove the box because it's a lot of work. The only place where I can see something is a 6 x 6 cm plate screwed with 4 screws under which there is a rubber gasket there is a sign about the loss of the warranty as you unscrew. The plate is on the left side at the front. I wanted to unscrew it but the screw is a star with a pin in the middle so I have to look for such a key somewhere. Is there the harmonica you write about under this plate? And where will be the place to drain the oil? Is there any other way to change the oil in this box, I suspect that here is the problem because there is an oily secretion on the case ( oil mixed with dust, etc.
I hope that this time too someone will advise me how to do it.

Hello

The place from which you can drain the oil is under the box ( rubber plug ), this plate just masks the harmonica, if there is oil in it or from the hole flows oil is a sign that it is broken. I simply poured out all the oil, unscrewed the plate where the harmonica is, took it out, tilted the tractor and poured oil in the place of the harmonica, put it on, screwed everything together and that was it, after that I bled the oil, added it and the mower drove until the harmonica broke again and the expansion tank was installed, which made it easier to replace.

Thanks a lot for your answer. Can you be more specific where is this plug for draining oil, at what time looking at the engine from the top, Underneath it is difficult to put even a hand, probably you need to remove the scythe. Write how you unscrewed these wonderful screws( with stars) did you find a wrench or did you come up with your own way, I unscrewed one with pliers, but to the rest is not so easy to access.Fueled with such oil as written above? Approximately how much of this oil? It is difficult to check after draining because I do not know how much escaped. I guess that it is best to drain when it is warm.
Write something more about this tank maybe some photo? I made it a point of honor to change this oil.
Thank you in advance.

The best thing you can do is to remove the scythe, I know it's a bit tiring, but it will make the job easier and at the same time you will clean yourself, sharpen the blades and preserve everything . I don't own this mower anymore, but as I recall, I think the plug was about in the middle (the plug is rubber). The screws are for a torx wrench with a hole, what number I can't remember, it's readily available, so you'd better buy it. Holes are made in the housing for the key, so access is fairly easy. The reservoir was installed by cutting out the harmonica and in the hole of the sheet metal was inserted hydraulic connector (Christmas tree), to it the line leading to the expansion tank.

Hello everyone! Last year I bought a Castelgarden hydro tractor and after the first lawn mowing the harmonica shot,the mower went to Husqvarna authorized service and there the box was pulled out and it was disassembled into its first parts, it was found that except for the harmonica everything is ok. The cost of a new harmonica 180 PLN the cost of labor 700 PLN with oil change. After returning from the service two mowing ok then it began to weaken. After about 15 to 20 minutes, I noticed an oil leak from the shaft where the brake disc is. I purchased oil and topped up on the harmonic side, it helped for a while. I decided to take the contraption apart myself and replace the simmers on the shafts. The box is screwed on four bolts and you do not need to remove the entire scythe, you put your hand at the rear wheel over the scythe and the other on the right side and quietly unscrew the box. Then we remove the beam to which the box was attached, two screws. Don't count on the crate coming out through the top hole, it won't, unless you use an angle grinder and enlarge the hole! We turn the box upward and unscrew the fan, this will make it easier to lower the box down. Before that, we remove the channel connecting the scythe to the basket (two screws and two bolt catches). We lower the box between the scythe and the axle of the rear wheels. Now all that remains is to raise the tractor and slide the box out from under it. I poured out the oil, disassembled the box and one simmerer turned out to be too big, the very one that was leaking. Such a simering to order because it has markings in inches, waiting time about two weeks. And I have a question: what to pay attention to as I have it all on the table and what to check? No oil filter inside, only a magnetic plate to catch metal particles. Thanks in advance for any tips.




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That's a piece of work you did. I found a mechanic who took to my tractor, he said that nothing needs to be done yet with the box just adjusted something there, because some valve was opening badly and it is supposed to be ok. I don't have a chance to test it well, because the last mowing lasted an hour and it was OK. I wonder what will happen after a longer run.