Procedure for Unlocking Piston Rings with Kerosene in Fiat Punto 1.1 8V Engine

I plan to flood the cylinder with kerosene during the day and night. I suspect seized or cracked rings on the piston. Reason: dry compression warm strong - 6 bar, after oil test 12 bar. If seared - it should help, if cracked - not. And now how to do it correctly?

I plan: drain the oil, unscrew the candles, fill the entire cylinder with kerosene should enter about 250 ml (engine 1.1 8V Fiat Punto 1 55KM), leave it overnight, pour in again 250 ml in the morning and leave it for the whole day. In the evening, unscrew the plug from the oil and drain the kerosene from the bowl. Pour over with oil.

Do you have to set the plunger about halfway? Is it enough to drive the 5th gear, lift one wheel and turn it, and insert the wire into the cylinder to measure the depth?

People. It worked 20 years ago. Repair or replacement of the engine.

@barteksmrek: the car is 20 years old, so if it worked so many years ago, it will work now as you write. Engine overhaul is the cost of the car. The engine spacer is 50% of the car's value. If the kerosene experiment fails, the car may end up for scrap, unless it will run on 3 cylinders instead of 4 for the next 2-3 years.

Now there are much better fluids that you can use, for example carbon cleaner or even wd40 will be better than kerosene, also use an engine rinse added to the oil because it also cleans the engine.
You must know that old engines run often due to the fact that the carbon deposit helps the engine to run, if you flush it properly, it may run worse
Good luck

This worked in the era when the engines were running on the superol.
The kerosene will only dissolve soft carbon deposits. If the carbon deposit was skoked, I would flood the engine even with used good oil with flushing additives and after a month of driving, I would continue to combine it with rinses.

I need to dissolve the carbon deposit only on one second cylinder because if I start on the entire engine it may end badly for him. So it would be best to pour some cleaning substance into it and leave it for X hours, from time to time moving the plunger. I thought that kerosene is the most powerful substance because it has creeping properties than, for example, wd40 or carbon cleaner offered by my colleague @diababg. Anything even more corrosive to coke? Of course, the assumption is that I'm draining the oil from the engine and pouring something into the cylinder.

Read the composition of WD40 on his card. You may be surprised ...
Charred particles best soften alkali-based detergents. For example, the preparations will give the glass of cells, but unfortunately they cannot be used in the engine.
IMHO, you have little chance of success for your idea.

Apparently, Pepsi dissolves everything. And seriously, there are also preparations for cleaning fireplace glass.

jack63 wrote:

Read the composition of WD40 on his card. You may be surprised ...
Charred particles best soften alkali-based detergents. For example, the preparations will give the glass of cells, but unfortunately they cannot be used in the engine.
IMHO, you have little chance of success for your idea.

I can confirm that the combination of highly alkaline cleaning agents and an aggressive hydrocarbon-based cleaner (e.g. Gunk) gives good results.
Unfortunately, the bases are quite good at dealing with aluminum and its alloys, releasing hydrogen at the same time. (pistons)

Okay, Col. detergents OK. and what's next with the shaft's lubricating channels and bushings, but it flows into this bowl and there is a secondary circulation, and what's next, the pistons, clean rings, and the crankshaft? It's spinning in that slush, hmm. washing the engine, rinsing the engine several times, e.g. with kerosene, hmm, after such combinations, the oil will be changed several times during a normal change.

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3340359.html

How could your riding rings stuck, think logically. ????

@strumien awareness: I think that the rings can get stuck from dirt, carbon deposits and other things because the mechanics tell me that when I drive on LPG, the fuel is dry. In that case, I do not know why preparations such as this one are produced. XADO VERYLUBE ANTICOX ANTICARBON AEROSOL 320 ml
http://sklep-xado.pl/pl/p/ANTYKOKS-Antykarbon-320ml-aerozol/468 which as I read:

A fast-acting preparation for unlocking the piston rings in gasoline and diesel engines. Based on own recipes with the use of BASF components.

- Removes all deposits and tar deposits from the surfaces of the piston, bushings and rings.
- Oil change after use is not required.
- Restores freedom of movement to the piston rings.
- Cleans sleeves, pistons, combustion chamber, valves from any impurities coming from fuel and oil (carbon deposits, coke, lacquer, tar).
- Equalizes the pressure in the cylinders.
- Reduces the emission of harmful compounds in the exhaust gas

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

How could your riding rings stuck, think logically. ????

The engine is slaughtered but quietly dreams of a miracle,

Are the pressure measurements similar on all cylinders? Maybe it has worn out? How many has traveled? What is an oil test according to you? You poured something thick and you know there will be more pressure.
This is a fiat and the engine you can buy for PLN 500 different and 1.4 liters. This topic makes no sense. Where did you get these trials? Who recommends that? How do you know it's not valves?

8850 wrote:

I plan to flood the cylinder with kerosene during the day and night.

This is the old way of getting gripped rings after the engine overheats. But this operation should be done right after the overheating took place. And pray that it will help without interference. After some time it is too late and it is not known if it would help right after overheating / grabbing the rings. :D

I used it once when I lost the coolant and the engine was running but was it kerosene the reason ??? It's hard to confirm.

@arteksmrek Pressure on the cylinders measured from the timing side 12-6-12-12 bar after the oil test 12-12-12-12 bar. 2 times measurement to be sure. Punto 1, Engine 1.1 8V 55KM, mileage approx. 200 thousand. km. PB + LPG Checked with a threaded pressure gauge, warm engine, gas in the floor, all spark plugs unscrewed. Oil test - 15 ml of fresh oil added to each cylinder. Symptoms: oil burns, accelerates poorly, blows into tight mufflers that growl and hum (middle and rear mufflers replaced by a muffler who only does this). The muffler himself suggested that the exhaust system is working and something is wrong with the combustion chamber, so then the compression was measured and he was right.

And does the oil test rule out, for example, puncturing the compression on the second cylinder (6 bar) through the cylinder head gasket outside the block?

8850 wrote:

Punto 1, Engine 1.1 8V 55KM, mileage approx. 200 thousand. km. PB + LPG

When the engine runs on gas, I suppose the deposit is already washed away. I had an engine in the south, covered with sediment, and after gassing, after driving about 20 thousand. km all settlements have disappeared. But during these 20 thousand. km I changed the oil three times. I can also say that after the disappearance of these deposits, the compression on the cylinders increased, in fact it went back to the level when the engine was new. Here I suppose there will be something more serious than seized rings.

The buddy 8850 ring seizure usually occurs on all cylinders. They clog together with the oil control ring. Then the measurement of the pressure is not error-prone, however, the engine consumes excessive amounts of oil and fumes. You have a different situation. You have one cylinder down. Of course, you can flood with kerosene and other specifics. I wish you good luck in these experiments, but I think that you have a mechanical damage to this pot, which will not heal anything. Motor szrot.

8850 wrote:

And does the oil test rule out, for example, puncturing the compression on the second cylinder (6 bar) through the cylinder head gasket outside the block?

It would be audible and not so easy to break through the water mantle on the way.

Well, look at the workload of thousands of users wasted on the uncertain repair of the 1100cc punt.

@strumien swiadomosc: this is a group of "beginner cars" and I am writing here, not mechanics and sewers. I remember that the failure on the cylinder was due to the rich mixture loaded in the engine. First, the LPG computer collapsed and it was flooded with gas. I replaced the driver. Then the gasoline pressure valve fell off and gasoline was added to LPG - it also went out and the flat was too rich. I solved both problems but then there was a problem with this cylinder. I suppose that the engine did not overheat even once, the water temperature was always normal, which does not mean the correct temperature in the cylinder.

Then take it and pour kerosene overnight, worse if it gets you into the oil.

I was doing something like that with the SC 900 and the effect was good, the oil stopped eating and all the horses came back. Except I had the oil pan removed and used a damper spray. You will never drain all the oil from the bowl, so also what you add there.

After LPG, the engine is clean. So the carbon deposit isn't there. Recently, a colleague in the SC900 quickly put the head to work, the bowl down, the pistons pulled out. Manual honing machine for a drill, because there was almost no trace of it, new rings. And it works. Compression jumped to 11.5 from 6.5-8. It is equal on all cylinders. Oil needs to be added about 0.5l per 2000 km. The engine supposedly had 280,000.

Rolling the subject and punching points.

@kkknc an interesting situation, because if the gas is dry, it should be the other way around that there is carbon deposit because there is no proper lubrication? Unless the higher temperature burns the carbon deposit? At the automotive forum, the guest drove the LPG-powered car and pulled out the seized rings on the pistons (its description):
https://www.forumsamochodowe.pl/lancer-1-8-20...pg-spalone-zapieczone-pierscienie-vt78865.htm
Pictures of his pistons with stuck rings:
http://pl.tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2el3yus&s=8
http://pl.tinypic.com/view.php?pic=oid36r&s=8

And tell me what dry gas is. There is no water in it or what? And wet gasoline because it has water? There the answers are given. And you picked up the first one that suited you. It doesn't matter if it's bad. The important thing is that it suited you. LPG is a clean fuel as opposed to ethylene, not gasoline. A typical LPG contains a mixture of two gases and a fragrance. And of course many other things, but only in trace amounts. However, ethyl is a whole cross-section of everything. After burning, you have lacquer ashes, and I suppose.
This is clearly visible in the purity of the oil. It is nice and clean on LPG. After 15,000 it looks like 1000km on gas.

And whether the lack of compression on the 2 cylinder of 6 bars (after the 12 bar oil test) may be caused by a worn valve control plate servicing this cylinder, then the suction valve is not open for too long, or on the contrary? If I can sniff around here, I'll take the keyboard off and check it with a feeler gauge.

The gas does not create a carbon deposit, because it does not have ingredients that would be used to form it under favorable conditions, as it is in the case of gasoline. As no scaling is formed on the gas, the oil is able to wash away the previously deposited sediment. The fact that such deposits are formed, in my opinion, is to blame for the engine, specifically the oil sump blowing on the rings. I came to this conclusion, based on the engines in my cars, viz. My first toddler from mid-74 (Italian engine), 40,000 each km, had a compression of 11 atm, did not take oil, had a hoof that was later comparable to a meganka. The keyboard and the carburetor itself were clean.
In the second toddler, the compression was 9.4 and 9.2 atm on the new engine, the oil splashed 0.6 liters / 1000 (according to the instructions it could take up to 0.7 liters), compared to its predecessor, sludge and already 20 thousand. km the keyboard was overgrown. It was the same later with FSO1500 and Poldek, but in Poldek after gassing, the sediments disappeared and the compression returned to the one at the beginning.
Now about gasoline. The former ethiline (leaded gasoline) was better than unleaded in terms of deposit formation. An example for me is the gasoline primer, which used ethylene for about 10 years and was clean inside - no sediment. It was enough that I poured unleaded petrol once and after two days the compulsion stopped working, there was little trouble with taking it apart because it was so overgrown inside. It was impossible to rinse it out, everything had to be scraped, and not everything was accessible.
In the gassed Corolla I replaced three petrol injectors. The first one was under warranty, so I didn't see it, but the next two fell at the same time, clogged, became carbonized - now when I think about it, I suppose that the reason was that they were leaky and when working on gas they were slightly oozing and slowly overgrowing, I suppose on ethiline would not have happened.

These photos are driving with a damaged air filter and it catches sand and dirt.

If any valve is propped up (does not close) or is burnt out, there will also be a drop in compression, but the oil test shows the rings (piston-cylinder is not tight). In the past, it was checked where the leak was by connecting compressed air to the cylinder (through the plug hole) with the valves closed and listened to where it hisses or blows - from the oil pan, from the intake or exhaust.