How much will the engine with poor compression on one cylinder withstand?

Hey. How much will the engine fall through? I have about 180,000 km of mileage in the engine Fiat FiTo Fire 1.1 55KM 8V with LPG On one cylinder fallen rings. Compression 6 bar, after an oil test 12 bar. I drive about 2 months in which I diagnosed the problem.

The car does every day around 25 km in urban areas. He has an engine stuck by this compression but he drives only the exhaust system works louder and snarls bass (although exchanged for a good one a month ago because I did not suspect that it comes to the engine), broken windshield, damaged heater, the mask has a declining lacquer, ends with review for 1.5 months, OC for 3 months. Ceramizer did not help, oil thickening - not mineral either. The car qualifies for scrap (they will give about PLN 300), although everything else works as it should. Finding a different car can take me several months (I am looking for a specific car with specific properties for my work). How much can it still go?

With a broken window, it will not pass the review. For sure, the engine has a much greater appetite for fuel. Look for a new car as soon as possible or renovate this one.

- I know he will not go through the review
- I am looking for a new car all the time
- the car burns about 10 liters LPG, so it is normal in the urban area
- it is not worth refurbishing as I wrote due to costs and time
How does the degradation of the engine work on such damage as I have?

everything depends on the rings - you do not know the day or the hour. the ring can lock in every minute. you can drive a million km or maybe 1 km. all you have to do is clinch (you will rub the rings in one place) and lock the piston then you have a problem with getting back home

It seemed to me that a faded ring would break or break down and one piston against three would have no chance and would be chasing

8850 wrote:

Compression 6 bar, after an oil test 12 bar. I drive about 2 months in which I diagnosed the problem.

You have a burnt valve, otherwise with such compression in the blink of an eye it would make you let go of oil from the engine.

Added after 47 [second]:

8850 wrote:

He has the engine dead by this compression but he drives only the exhaust system works louder and snarls with bass

Well, just as I wrote above.

@robokop: you surprised me because I suppose the same as the mechanics that the oil test explained the subject. Wait: the pressure on the cylinder is 6 bar. After pouring a few cm3 of oil, it jumped to 12 bar as on the other cylinders. I drive on LPG for 5 years. The engine is filled with a ceramizer. For 2 days I poured 2 liters of kerosene through a damaged cylinder in order to possibly wet the suspended rings (solubility of carbon) - of course, I poured the kerosene by pouring oil and then kerosene. I also checked the valve plates within the allowable clearance - and it's OK. But otherwise it did not help.

The diagnosis was that the rings had fallen, that is, the refurbishment of the pit. I assumed that I had a damaged bottom of the engine and now it turns out that there is only a mountain. If it is up there might be a sense of repair if it is only one valve. So how could the top oil seal the valve with a splash? I do not understand this process, the more that a small change in pressure measurement indicates a problem with valves, big on the rings. In this case, the difference is 6 per 12 bar or 100%. So what's up?

If there was a valve, the oil test would not give anything away. If you have your own or you can borrow a cylinder leak tester from someone, he will tell you the truth.

piotrekwoj1 wrote:

If there was a valve, the oil test would not give anything away

And if it were rings, the engine would be oiled - I will not mention blue kicking. The same is true about how much your oil tests are worth.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

8850 wrote:

For 2 days I poured 2 liters of kerosene through a damaged cylinder in order to possibly wet the suspended rings (solubility of carbon) - of course, I poured the kerosene by pouring oil and then kerosene.

It was necessary to pee instead of kerosene, just the same would give it. If the kerosene was not draining down immediately, it only stayed in the cylinder for some time, the bottom is fine.

Cylinder tightness tester I borrowed this professional equipment, screwed on the thread. I checked the measurement three times just in case there was no mistake. On a warm engine, the cylinders measure 12-6-12-12 bar counting from the timing side. I added a few cm3 of oil through the hole in the candle and measuring 12-12-12-12 bar by pushing the gas to the top and turning the starter.

For 2 days I poured 2 liters of kerosene through the cylinder, after a few hours pouring the dose until it poured through the hole in the candle. Before that I used oil, of course. Every few hours I checked the state and refilled and gently moved the wheel. The engine is filled with a ceramizer. I also checked the valve clearances are according to books fit in standards because 4 years ago I exchanged tiles. Generally, ideas have ended up diagnosing and repairing.

8850 wrote:

Generally, ideas have ended up diagnosing and repairing.

Without checking what the cylinder fin looks like, it's hard to say anything. And according to me, it is better to ride on new rings with a slightly scratched cylinder finish, than on those present, probably cracked. Checking the finish and possible decision to replace the rings is probably not a cosmic cost.
Engine rinse that goes on gas with kerosene is a stupid idea. In a gas engine there are no deposit deposits, and the existing ones are even washed out. So the rings should not be immobilized, and maybe the release of cracked rings caused a decrease in compression.

8850 wrote:

Cylinder tightness tester I borrowed this professional equipment, screwed on the thread. I checked the measurement three times just in case there was no mistake. On a warm engine, the cylinders measure 12-6-12-12 bar counting from the timing side. I added a few cm3 of oil through the hole in the candle and measuring 12-12-12-12 bar by pushing the gas to the top and turning the starter.

For 2 days I poured 2 liters of kerosene through the cylinder, after a few hours pouring the dose until it poured through the hole in the candle. Before that I used oil, of course. Every few hours I checked the state and refilled and gently moved the wheel. The engine is filled with a ceramizer. I also checked the valve clearances are according to books fit in standards because 4 years ago I exchanged tiles. Generally, ideas have ended up diagnosing and repairing.

From your description it appears that you have been doing a compression test.
The cylinder leak tester is a different device than the compression tester. Compare yourself on the net. How to use the leak tester look at youtube there are several videos.

ABOUT! That's how I did compression testing, or compression in bars. I did not think there was anything like the cylinder leak tester. It seemed to me that like a lack of compression is a lack of airtightness.

you can still look at the endoscopic camera through the candle opening.

Fiat unfortunately for scrap