Toyota Avensis 2004 2.0 D4D - The car weakens after warming up, smokes black / g

Welcome,

I have been sitting for 2 days on the topic of a friend's car. Mentioned Avensis 2004 2.0 D4D 116HP. Problems started some time ago, but three weeks back they started to get annoying. Well, before the car reaches operating temperature it comes like a dream, it has power, accelerates, does not smoke, in a word, nothing happens (the same always fires from a shot). However, when it reaches its temperature (around 90 degrees) everything changes. Feeling a sudden loss of power, begins to smoke black / gray, has a problem to roll up the hill.
I have probably read half the Internet and have not found a reliable solution.
Of the things that have been done
About 2 weeks ago:
Change of oil and filter (Motul 5w30 oil with the standard appropriate for this car, Mann filter)
Changing the air filter
Changing the fuel filter (Mann)
Changing the PK bar (climate + support)

Nothing has changed after this service, I would even say that things started getting a bit worse ...

Yesterday the intake was checked, tight, visually checked vacuum (plus one of the hoses removed, pulling like Sasha Gray), removed and cleaned by immersion in the cleaner and shaking the SCV valve (method found in the network, checked by people).
There was improvement, the car "caught up" for a maximum of 20-30 seconds, then it released and drove normally.
Test performed using a CDP computer and the Torque PRO + iCar2 application.
In both cases zero errors, Torque showed a boost pressure of around 13-15 psi with the engine almost hot. The CDP, in turn, at real data at the moment of silting, showed EGR 0 STEP and fuel rail pressure at the level of over 90 MPa (while during normal operation, when it was not silted, the EGR worked in the range up to 50 STEP and the pressure probably 60-70MPa.

Today we decided to "improve" yesterday's effects. The SCV valve fell out of the car again, 1.5 hours soaked in a mixture of Wynns Extreme Diesel System Cleaner with the addition of Normfest CT60 Diesel Additive. After this time and tapping a decent valve, he returned to the car. I made a mixture of about 1 liter of oil + Wynns + Normfest (in quite a large amount) I gave directly before the fuel pump into the system. The pump pulled the entire contents of the bottle, the car smoothed a bit but nothing else happened. I put everything together and the meatloaf.
After reaching the operating temperature the car loses power completely, behind the "Batory" car (black / gray). There is no chance to spar over 2k revolutions while driving even in neutral gear, after stopping screwing for revolutions it takes forever and for that after moving off there is zonk.
In the computer, both CDP and iCar zero errors, CDP still shows 0 Step EGR position and over 90 MPa fuel rail pressure. Torque, on the other hand, shows the boost pressure at the level of MAX 5psi, but more often it is 1.5 or 3 psi (even with gas in the floor at a standstill, as soon as it gets spun).

Do you have ideas, dear colleagues, what else to check, what to clean, where to look for the reason?

Thank you in advance for your help
Regards
Chris

For a good start, EGR is clear, because it has no EGR position sensor 0 STEP is the value that the computer sets the valve can actually be jammed and the flow meter is also worth rinsing.

And when it comes to my experience with power loss only on heat in this engine, I had two similar cases.
The first was because of bad fuel, the car rode like bad until it warmed up, it was a little louder and generated code from the injection system, the fuel was too dry and the injections were blurred, replacing it with oily oil and the car drove off.
The second case was when the wall warmed up, as if the anchor threw zero codes out of the fuel rail pressure window out of the window, which turned out to be injectors letting the fuel overflow only when they were hot.

While driving, check what is missing at the time of power loss, i.e. whether the fuel pressure is decreasing or maybe the boost pressure. It is also worth checking the tightness of the fuel system using a suitable computer. During the test, the fuel pressure must reach 115 MPa.

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for the hint

After the "adventures" described above, I still read on the network suggestions about the flap in the turbine (called the air deflector, or westgate), it did not work smoothly, seemingly without resistance, but sometimes you could feel a slight light. It was started up and cleaned from the outside. In addition, a few users wrote about the vacuum control valve (located below the MAP sensor). When driving after these "corrections" (turbo alone) it was better and the car "went" much longer. However, at one point again, as one of you wrote, the anchor for the car is standing.
So stop, skip the vacuum control valve and fire. All parameters are normal, both pressure and top-up, everything goes auto. Well, happy thinking that the car will go back home after the test and a piece in front of the house again, a wall of smoke, a pile of smoke, etc. (interestingly, bypassing the valve, the turbine generated a strange noise when charging (as if someone had put a tube from a bicycle on the exhaust)). , hole in the inlet, pressure loses. Dismantled all hoses, washed, cleaned, checked, no traces of any. I look through, the flow looks OK, even there was no dust on it, I blew it lightly and put it on the car.
Well, the last thing (in total the first one you mentioned), the EGR valve, the intake was taken off, it was a fairy tale, 5 minutes was out of the car, dark inside, no tragedy but dark. I washed, rinsed, the mushroom walked with resistance, so he got a cleaning agent, then lightly lubricated, into the car, all put together, by the way each plug got contact in contact, so preventively.
After assembling the car, everything works as it should, the boost pressure holds, the fuel rail goes up to 130 MPa, resuscitation successful customer is very happy.

Thank you once again for any hints, I'm closing the topic.