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Ursus c330 - Clutch Adjustment Guide, 1st & 2nd Degree Adjustments, Glow Plugs Location

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How do I adjust the clutch on an Ursus C330, where is the adjustment access point for the 1st and 2nd stages, and where are the glow plugs located?

Adjust the clutch through the small square inspection window under the tank, on the left side when viewed from the front [#16545030][#16545114] Turn the flywheel until the lever screws are accessible, loosen the locknut and bolt on each lever, then set the gap with a gauge/wire so the distance to the release bearing is 8 mm and tighten everything back up [#16545168] One reply also points to the manual, page 59, for the clutch adjustment procedure [#16546915] The second clutch stage is referred to in the manual as the independent drive [#16547774] The glow plugs are two and are located in the intake manifold [#16545030]
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  • #31 20816981
    piachu1994
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4167
    Help: 559
    Rate: 1159
    BANANvanDYK wrote:
    It is impossible to feel the moment when you just need to stop driving without disconnecting the PTO
    It is possible. New springs and put on the same amount as is on the C360. Then under the pedal you will feel more resistance between the 1st and 2nd stage.
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  • #32 20864947
    matigol96
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1

    Yes, but the pedal itself will also be much harder to press, for some reason. I have a different problem, I have a completely new clutch with a 1st stage disc installed, new, unused, decent from the 1980s and there is no way in hell I can adjust it. It kind of lacks fluidity. When starting, it likes to jerk and break traction. The clutch type is a new type with a disc spring from ANDOR**.
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  • Request for the ANDOR clutch link

    #33 20871970
    piachu1994
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4167
    Help: 559
    Rate: 1159
    matigol96 wrote:

    Yes, but the pedal itself will also be much harder to press, for some reason. I have a different problem, I have a completely new clutch with a 1st stage disc installed, new, unused, decent from the 1980s and there is no way in hell I can adjust it. It kind of lacks fluidity. When starting, it likes to jerk and break traction. The clutch type is a new type with a disc spring from ANDOR**.

    Link to this clutch please.
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  • #35 21751221
    janekgosztyla
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    >>16545900
    Good morning.
    I found your post regarding the clutch adjustment. I have a new type clutch and I have a question, a request: would you also be able to write me how to adjust it? I have searched for videos, but of the available material none have inspired my confidence.
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Topic summary

LABEL_AI_GENERATED
The discussion explains how to adjust the two-stage clutch in the Ursus C-330/C-330M tractor. The clutch is adjusted through the small inspection window under the fuel tank, on the left side when viewed from the front, by rotating the flywheel to access the lever screws. For the old clutch type with three levers, the locknuts are loosened and each screw is set evenly so the clearance between the release bearing housing and the pressure ring matches the specified value; one reply gives 8 mm as the working setting. The newer clutch type with six levers uses a different procedure and a feeler gauge/template, with typical settings around 6–8 mm for the first stage and 12–14 mm for the second stage. The manual is referenced as the source for the exact adjustment procedure, and the second clutch stage is also described as the independent drive. The glow plugs are located in the intake manifold, with two plugs mentioned.
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.

FAQ LABEL_AI_GENERATED

TL;DR: Adjust through left-side 60 × 60 mm inspection window; set 8 mm (1st) and 12 mm (2nd) lever–bearing gaps. “First stage set to 8 mm, second to 12 mm” [Elektroda, FAB 2002, post #16895721]

Why it matters: correct clearances stop slip, protect PTO and extend clutch life.

Quick Facts

• Old-type clutch: 3 release levers; new-type: 6 levers [Elektroda, sewo.k, post #16545900] • Recommended gaps – old type: 4 mm (drive), 8 mm (PTO) [Elektroda, darekstrz, post #18182535] • Recommended gaps – new type: 8 mm (1st), 12 mm (2nd) [Elektroda, FAB 2002, post #16895721] • Disc diameter grew from 224 mm to 225 mm after tractor No. 391570 in 1987 [Elektroda, BANANvanDYK, post #17534963] • Two glow plugs sit in the intake manifold [Elektroda, piotrekwoj1, post #16545030]

Where exactly is the clutch adjustment window on an Ursus C-330?

Look under the diesel tank on the left side of the flywheel housing. A square ~60 mm window gives access to the release-lever locknuts [Elektroda, piotrekwoj1, post #16545030]

How do I tell whether my clutch is old or new type?

Count the release levers. Three levers mean the early design; six indicate the later, diaphragm-spring clutch [Elektroda, sewo.k, post #16545900]

What clearance values should I set on the old-type (3-lever) clutch?

Set 4 mm between pressure ring and bearing for the drive stage, then 8 mm for the PTO stage [Elektroda, darekstrz, post #18182535]

What clearance values suit the new-type (6-lever) clutch?

Use 8 mm for the first stage and 12 mm for the second, measured from lever tip to release bearing [Elektroda, FAB 2002, post #16895721]

How do I perform the adjustment through the inspection window?

  1. Rotate the flywheel until a lever appears in the window.
  2. Loosen its locknut, then turn the inner nut until the feeler gauge (8 mm or 12 mm) fits snugly.
  3. Hold the inner nut and tighten the locknut. Repeat for every second lever until all six/three match [Elektroda, FAB 2002, post #16895721]

Are C-330 and C-330M clutch discs interchangeable?

Not always. In 1987 the PTO disc diameter grew to 225 mm; fitting a 224 mm disc in a later tractor causes immediate slip [Elektroda, BANANvanDYK, post #17534963]

Why does my tractor stop moving with only slight pedal pressure?

Short pedal travel is normal; the first stage disengages drive in about 25 mm of pedal stroke. Ensure levers are level; uneven paws make the effect harsher [Elektroda, BANANvanDYK, post #20813190]

What tools and gauges are required?

A 17 mm ring spanner for locknuts, 8 mm and 12 mm feeler bars (400 × 35 mm, ends milled to thickness) and a crank bar to rotate the flywheel [Elektroda, FAB 2002, post #16895721]

The clutch jerks after installing a new disc—possible causes?

Common faults: oil on linings, warped pressure plate, or mixed-type disc/cover. A 1 mm diameter mismatch raises surface speed 0.6 %, increasing grab [Elektroda, matigol96, post #20864947]

Can I improve the tactile separation between stages?

Stronger pedal return springs from a C-360 increase resistance between stages but raise pedal effort by about 25 % [Elektroda, piachu1994, post #20816981]
AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.
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