URSUS C330 (1978) - What hydraulic oil, what for the engine, how much?

Hello,
I wanted to replace / refill the oils in the Ursus C330 tractor from 1978.
The question of how to check the oil level in the box, bridge and hydraulics? From what I read, the hydraulics take oil from the box? Does the bridge oil also? What oil is best to pour - Hipol GL4? I would like to add that the turret descends quite slowly, and the trailer with an actuator is even slower, so the oil is probably too thick? I do not want to change the oil, but fill it in the hydraulics, so if it is too thick, maybe mix it a bit less?

How much oil goes into the engine and how to fill it - CC-40?

Same as in C330M (better recommended).

Certainly not the superol CC engine for the engine - people complain about its quality.
The gearbox, rear axle and hydraulics use the same oil. There is a filler plug with a measuring cup on the box. It is best to use gear-hydraulic oil (Agrol U), but if it is to be used with trailers connected to modern tractors, it must be UTTO oil (10W-30 gear-hydraulic oil), although it is not known how it will affect the wear of the splash lubricated gearbox. As you can see, STOU oils (motor-gear-hydraulic) are acceptable, but probably nobody has used them in the C330 so far.

The C-330 is an old construction, but extremely durable and tolerant for a not too demanding user. This equipment was supposed to work, be low-breakdown and require no expensive consumables, so using semi-synthetic oils may not be a good idea. I would use 15W / 40 oil for the engine and GL - 4 oil as recommended by the manufacturer.

darfur5 wrote:

So using semi-synthetic oils in it might not be a good idea.

Why?

The fact that oils were expensive and bad years ago does not mean that you should pour the cheapest BADZIEW, eat canned Ladybug as sparing.
I, for example, funnels ELfa 10w40 comes in 7 l so there is no tragedy.

Generally, there is one simple rule, you do not borrow accessories for hydraulics because no one knows what oil your neighbors have in tractors and machines.
And one machine can mess up hundreds of liters of hydraulic oil.

darfur5 wrote:

and for GL - 4 gearbox

This statement is too vague. Hipol oil is usually 80W-90 viscosity oil which is damn thick at low temperatures and not suitable for plumbing. Unfortunately, no one gives the viscosity at 40 ° C to show the difference in "thickness" of the oil. The acceptable oil is 80W, which has ISO VG 100 viscosity for hydraulic oil, which is still "the densest" in the class of hydraulic oils. UTTO and STOU oils, on the other hand, have the ISO VG 32-46 viscosity, most commonly used in hydraulic systems, but they are quite "rare" considering the fact that they stay on the gears not immersed in the oil and in the absence of forced lubrication. Although they are approved for use in accordance with instructions, you have to decide for yourself. It should be taken into account whether the tractor will be used with machines also used by new tractors.
A long time ago, there weren't even such gear-hydraulic oils, so various solutions were used, such as LUX, Superol and Hipol oils, which, of course, could not be mixed. Even for the T-25, it was recommended to use the Superol for hydraulics (a separate tank), when Russian-language instructions prescribed the use of HLP46 hydraulic oil. The pump stops working on Hipol ...
Note that you have single-acting cylinders and their return speed depends on the viscosity of the oil and the load.
Oils currently cost around PLN 10 / liter, so these are not large amounts.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

I, for example, funnels ELfa 10w40 comes in 7 l so there is no tragedy.

I have one in the Mf-255 engine. After 110 mth. Mobil delvac mx 10w40 oil had better pressure than it is now.

BANANvanDYK wrote:

Hipol oil is usually 80W-90 viscosity oil which is damn thick at low temperatures and not suitable for plumbing.

The C-330 was from news to hipole 15. Maybe it is dense, if someone has to use a lot of plumbing in frosts, you can pour Agrol U or similar. Now the most important: c-330 gestures hipol, oil level to the middle of the lower shaft in the box, mf-255 Agrol-U oil thinner but the level to the half of the upper shaft.

Let me put it this way, the tractor does not work with any new or even old hydraulic machine. It has a round from news and has a trailer which is about 35 years old with an actuator so also very old.
The tractor is neglected and I just wanted to refill the fluids because it is rarely used. Hence, I do not want to buy anything expensive, but rather the cheapest solutions, because the engine and gearbox require a proper flushing and only the replacement of the oil with the new, most appropriate one.

Added after 11 [minutes]:

stasiekb100 wrote:

c-330 gestures hipol, oil level to the middle of the lower shaft in the box

And how to check it, will you see something through the filler cap?

After all, you have a measuring tape next to the gear lever, such a large screw.

You can take advantage of this.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

After all, you have a measuring tape next to the gear lever, such a large screw.

Does the line (groove, groove) on the dipstick close to the nut mean the correct oil level?
I have oil somewhere half a centimeter from the end of the dipstick, but nowhere do I see the minimum level on the dipstick?

I attach a picture.


ps I have not a wise question, but how would engine oil work in hydraulics?

I wouldn't risk such an operation. You must understand the dash on the dipstick as MAX.

And where is the minimum marked?

Maks is not even 1/3 of the length of the entire bayonet. Buy a new bayonet because this one is either defective or modified.

Exactly. It looks like someone had put a rod in the cork upside down.
Eventually you can drain the oil and pour it back into the quantity bookcase. It has to fit.

I bought a new bayonet for PLN 5 .