Ursus c330 - Clutch Adjustment Guide, 1st & 2nd Degree Adjustments, Glow Plugs Location

Hello, I would like to know how to adjust the clutch in the ursus c330 and where exactly it should be done (photo where the clutch adjustment is located) of the first and second degree and where the glow plugs are, please reply quickly.

You make the adjustment through a small square window under the tank. There you adjust the 1st and 2nd degree. There are two glow plugs in the intake manifold. Type it online and you'll see.

I've been looking and haven't found anything, so I'm asking for help.

Added after 10 [minutes]:

If someone could send a photo of where exactly this place to adjust this clutch is, thank you in advance

Looking from the front on the left side of the shaft.

do you know how to regulate it?

You crank the flywheel so you have access to the screws on the levers. You loosen the locknut and this bolt one turn on each lever. You take 8mm wire, and if the distance between the forcing ring and the bearing housing is less than 8mm, then you unscrew each screw the same number of turns to get 8mm. Then counter the screws and you're done.

thanks for the help

How about asking if it has an old or a new type of clutch?

is there a big difference when adjusting?

Sure. The old type clutch has three lugs and the new one has six. Tell me which one you have and I'll write you exactly how to adjust the first and second stages.

I checked it has 3, which is the older type

Here you have the manual and the clutch adjustment is on page 59.

Thank you for your help

Added after 2 [hours] 59 [minutes]:

I have one more question if the 1st and 2nd degree is written there because there is no specific degree, only the clutch adjustment

In the manual, the second clutch stage is called independent drive.

Hello, friend Sewo, could you describe how to adjust the new type of clutch? Regards, Karol

There's not much to explain, I think the picture explains it quite clearly.

The new type clutch is very easy to adjust. A template - feeler gauge should be made of a hard material (e.g. metal, wood, plastic, ... ). Flat bar approx. 400 mm long and 30 - 40 mm wide. It is to be 6 to 8 mm thick at one end (for the 1st degree) and 12 to 14 mm thick at the other end (for the 2nd degree). This feeler gauge determines the distance of the levers from the thrust bearing. Adjustments are made with nuts. First, they must be countered, then the lever is set with the internal nut so that it touches the template located between it and the bearing. After this operation, you still need to lock this nut with the second - outer nut. There are 3 levers for each step - every second for each of them. Adjustment is facilitated by cutting a larger window in the housing - on the flange. Personally, I set the clutch - I stage - 8 mm, and II stage - 12 mm.

Thanks for your help, gentlemen, the clutch is already adjusted, the gears are great.

Hello, will someone tell me if there is a difference in the clutch discs 330 and 330m?

hello is .... the number of cutter teeth inside the driving disc has less and the wom has more

Added after 3 [minutes]:

PS .. a good quality disc should have an oil flinger leaking from between the shafts of the box, regards

I have 30 from 1987, supposedly M to the back of the parts with M I bought and I wanted to order the org ursus discs, just as there is a difference, I won't do anything until I drive over the front.

hello, if i find such a shield, i will take a photo

Hello and sorry for the time

In 1987, the diameter of the clutch discs was changed. Changing the diameter of the PTO disc from 224 mm to 225 mm / from tractor number 391570

In 1989 clutch disc without oil slinger.
In 1990, the "hand" parking brake, the change of the crankshaft and the labyrinth seal on the clutch side.
I have an emka from 1990, my father explained to me that the masters once put on a clutch disc from the usual 30, it was impossible to drive because it had a larger diameter and just slipped.
The only thing I've noticed is that the clutch paws are misaligned. It looks as if someone measured the service dimensions from the PTO disc and not from the pressure plate. I have an eye for 15 mm of clearance for the drive paws, and the pedal clearance is approx. 70 mm. What wrench is used to lock the locknut through the inspection window? Plus, they're heavily fucked.
BTW. does anyone have scans of the above service information?

It depends on what nuts were installed.
I don't remember what they were originally, but you'll have to check.
It unscrews normally. I used the data provided in this forum regarding the setting. The M and 30 have the same pitch and play setting between the doggies and the thrust bearing.

And in the old type of clutch are there any specific distances? When adjusting the clutch .

4mm drive 8mm thrust bearing pump

FAB 2002 wrote:

The new type of clutch is very simple to adjust. A feeler gauge should be made of a hard material (e.g. metal, wood, plastic, ...). A flat bar with a length of approx. 400 mm and a width of 30 - 40 mm. At one end it should be 6 to 8 mm thick (for the 1st degree), and at the other end 12 to 14 mm thick (for the 2nd degree). This feeler gauge is used to determine the distance of the levers from the release bearing. Adjustments are made with nuts. First, they need to be unscrewed, then the lever is adjusted using the internal nut so that it touches the template located between it and the bearing. After this operation, you need to lock the nut with a second, external nut. There are 3 levers for each stage - every second one for each of them. Adjustment is made easier by cutting out a larger window in the housing - on the collar. Personally, I set the clutch - 1st stage - 8 mm, and 2nd stage - 12 mm.

Hello, friend, you wrote that you need these feeler gauges, etc. My question is, how can I do it through the small window in the block? The problem I have is that I press the clutch lightly and the tractor immediately stops moving. In my opinion, the clutch is incorrectly adjusted. I have an Ursus C330M and I would like to do it correctly, could you explain to me in layman's terms how to do it?

Adjusting the clutch is not very difficult. You can do it through this little window. I will not write the entire adjustment procedure, because it is already described in the C 330 user manual. But to make the work easier, I found a video that shows in a simple way how to adjust the clutch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v= lDqLY9jrr9E

ziooober88 wrote:

The problem I have is that I only lightly press the clutch and immediately the tractor stops driving.

The clutch works properly. The pawls are supposed to be aligned so that they contact at the same time.
The trouble with the C330 is that the first stage is a short stroke. It is impossible to feel the moment when you just need to stop driving without disengaging the PTO. Otherwise, the clutch cannot be adjusted, because then the total travel of the clutch pedal decreases.