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VW Passat B5: Left Rear Wheel Locking After Using Handbrake, Post-Discs & Pads Change

l1715s 16434 5
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  • #1 16596155
    l1715s
    Level 9  
    Hello,
    I have a problem with the left rear wheel blocking.
    The symptom is that the wheel locks quite strongly after pushing and releasing the handbrake - I can barely turn the wheel (auto on the hoist).

    During normal driving and using only the foot brake, the problem almost does not occur, sometimes it slightly locks, much less than in the case of manual.

    Prejudice the questions - the clamp guides are light and flowing. I cleaned the pad guides yesterday and I also rather rule out the cause of this side, the block moves without resistance, has a slight play.

    The hand rope goes smoothly in the armor, without resistance, the hand lever (the one at the clamp) bounces to the very end, stops only at the stop.

    I suspect one thing, please let me know if I can be right.
    Well, the problem appeared shortly after replacing the discs and pads by a mechanic.
    Yesterday I took off the clamp and noticed that the dial had about 1mm beating (yes, yes 1mm). The mechanic did not even clean the hub before setting up a new blade.
    I cleaned it yesterday and now the shield has no noticeable eye strike.

    I will also add that the mechanic replaced the safety rubber in the clamp, because it jumped out of the groove.

    I suspect that the vibrations caused by the beating of the disc in some way have damaged the emergency brake self-brake and therefore there is a problem with blocking the wheel.

    In conclusion - the symptom is that by braking the foot wheel it practically does not block. During the ride about 200km (with stops), I noticed twice that the shields are too hot.
    When you pull the hand and release it, the wheel locks quite tight - turn the wheel hard when the car is on the lift.

    Is it possible to fix it somehow? Can you buy a repair kit and replace the sealant and rubber cover?
    Will it give something?
    Maybe a manual self-timer is released?
    Is it best to buy a new (used) clamp because it is not profitable to play with it?

    Thanks in advance for your answers. Greetings.
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  • #2 16596243
    tc
    Level 20  
    check the plunger if it is not corroded or dirty, remove the rubber sealing gasket and pull it out slightly by pressing the brake, often the guide rails to which the clamp is screwed are blurred.
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  • #3 16596361
    l1715s
    Level 9  
    The guides, as I wrote, walk lightly, after being removed they are clean, i.e. in grease, but there is no sign of corrosion on them.
    The piston was removed when replacing the discs to replace the rubber cover.
    The mechanic probably would not put together a rusted piston.

    I wonder about the fact that the wheel locks very much after using the handbrake.
    I would put on a manual mechanism.
    It is possible that the self-regulation has blurred? Can you somehow undress and possibly do it?
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  • #4 16596468
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Once again, the links, guides and the blocks themselves. The piston displacement mechanism has nothing more to do than the lever moves loosely and reflects every time
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  • #5 16596535
    tc
    Level 20  
    the self-regulator is under the plunger and it works in the liquid if you pull out the plunger and it can be screwed back it's ok I used to have 3 replacement bars in the Golf during the exchange of pads and there was a similar symptom, so try to swap them in places
  • #6 16597706
    l1715s
    Level 9  
    Thanks for the hints.
    Problem solved - I bought a repair kit yesterday, undressed the whole clamp, including the removal of the self-regulating device.
    It turned out that there was a terrible crap inside, full of sand.
    I cleaned everything, I blew up the WD40 self-regulator (I was more concerned with the pressure - blowdown and some solvents in WD40, which would dissolve muck, than lubricate elements).
    I polished the plunger, the manual pin and the brass bushings, the 1200 paper, I replaced the rubbers and it looks like the clamp works well.
    After driving about 10 km at a speed of about 120km / h, the cold shield. On the way, several times hard braking, also manual tests. I lifted the wheel under the house and turned freely.

    I do not know how the mechanic exchanged this rubber shield, he had to pull the plunger - he could not see what was going on inside? He did not see this shit?
    There is nothing to do for yourself and for yourself - nobody will try.
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