logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda

Manual Modular Phase Switch: DIN Rail, 20A+ Load Capacity, 4mm2 Wires, PF-431 Alternative

robertcb 10002 12
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16623257
    robertcb
    Level 17  
    Posts: 408
    Rate: 34
    Is there a DIN rail switch that would do the same as automatic phase switches, e.g. PF-431, but would be manually operated, had a higher load capacity (min. 20A), did not require additional contactors and allowed for connection with 4mm2 wires?
    Or maybe one of the 3 position modular switches would be suitable for this purpose?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #2 16623277
    januszbe
    Level 19  
    Posts: 314
    Help: 28
    Rate: 65
    Enter "manual phase switch" in google
  • #3 16624037
    darecki777
    Level 13  
    Posts: 473
    Rate: 27
    Does such a switch work on the principle that when there is a voltage drop on one phase, it controls itself and switches to another with a higher voltage?
    Maybe the author can specify what device he wants to use?
  • #4 16624064
    robertcb
    Level 17  
    Posts: 408
    Rate: 34
    Yes, the switch changes phase on voltage failure or voltage drop below a certain threshold.
    I was thinking of throwing something like this into the home switchboard.
    Single-family house in the countryside, overhead line ... sometimes there is a phase missing.
    However, the automatic devices available on the market have quite a few disadvantages:
    Low load current, probably high failure rate, and apparently most devices do not have protection against phase-to-phase short-circuit.

    I suppose the device would have been ejected after the first lightning storm that struck somewhere nearby ...

    A manual switch would have no electronics and would be as reliable as an esy or differential.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #6 16624654
    robertcb
    Level 17  
    Posts: 408
    Rate: 34
    If this Hager is fit for the purpose I'm writing about, it could be.
    I do not see the switch position wiring diagram in the documentation.

    Connect the output wire to any terminal of the ammeter?
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #7 16625078
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4143
    Help: 482
    Rate: 949
    robertcb wrote:
    I do not see the switch position wiring diagram in the documentation


    It's hard to find some clear info, I found only a diagram from which it appears that the switch is badly described because instead of L1 L2 L3 descriptions there should be symbols 3,5,7 on which the power is supplied.

    robertcb wrote:
    Connect the output wire to any terminal of the ammeter?


    I would only check if any of the outputs marked 8 and 10 are not connected to the output of the ground symbol.
  • #8 16625530
    robertcb
    Level 17  
    Posts: 408
    Rate: 34
    mawerix123 wrote:
    I would only check if any of the outputs marked 8 and 10 are not connected to the output of the ground symbol.


    It is also not known whether it is a direct or transformer switch ...
  • #9 16625617
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4143
    Help: 482
    Rate: 949
    robertcb wrote:
    It is also not known whether it is a direct switch or a transformer switch.


    It cannot have transformers inside, for the simple reason it has three IN paths, but no OUT path

    Ooo and silent like Russia, there is a connection diagram on the Russian hager website -> http://e-volta.ru/katalog/products/izmeriteln...ribory/perekljuchatel-dlja-ampermetra-20a400v
  • #10 16625748
    robertcb
    Level 17  
    Posts: 408
    Rate: 34
    mawerix123 wrote:
    Ooo and mute like Russia, there is a connection diagram on the Russian hager website -> http://e-volta.ru/katalog/products/izmeriteln...ribory/perekljuchatel-dlja-ampermetra-20a400v


    This diagram shows that the switch is connected to the coils of current transformers on the phase conductors, one end of which goes to terminals 3, 5, 7 and the other ends are connected - to terminal 1.

    There is no electrical diagram of the internal structure of this switch, as in this case:

    http://www.hager.pl/katalog-produktow/rozdzia...i-kluczykowe/sk606/47585.htm?utm_source=print

    Would such a connection of the switch be correct?

    Manual Modular Phase Switch: DIN Rail, 20A+ Load Capacity, 4mm2 Wires, PF-431 Alternative
  • #11 16626215
    cinepi
    Level 17  
    Posts: 157
    Help: 17
    Rate: 43
    The one for 99% of transformers will not work - please analyze the diagrams of such switches manufactured by, for example, Spamel or Elektromet Dzierżoniów - they have a very complicated connection system due to the necessity to close the winding of two of the three transformers at the moment (Probably short-circuits to terminal No. 1). I suggest going to a good electrical wholesaler and ordering a connector, e.g. Spamel, with a specific program of connections in the rail version, with a cover, e.g.

    http://www.spamel.com.pl/pl/produkty/laczniki-krzywkowe/SK20_S10

    and e.g. version SK20-2.4419

    Diagrams on the website - http://www.laczniki-krzywkowe.pl/

    Best regards.
  • #12 16626851
    mawerix123
    Level 39  
    Posts: 4143
    Help: 482
    Rate: 949
    cinepi wrote:
    have a very complicated connection system due to the necessity to short-circuit the winding of two of the three transformers at the moment (probably short-circuits to terminal 1)


    You may be right, the same occurred to me today when I was wondering what the grounding switch was for.

    Thus robertcb without confirmation of operation, however, this SK603 may not be suitable.

    cinepi wrote:
    and e.g. version SK20-2.4419


    Or maybe a Sk20-2.632 switch :?: this one will be the most appropriate.
  • #13 17529271
    pkar
    Level 12  
    Posts: 56
    Help: 1
    Rate: 5
    I tried to connect the SK603, but it was BOOM :)

    terminals:
    Z - grounding
    L1, L2, L3 - according to the description
    8, 10 - ammeter terminals
    xx - no connection

    They are combined:
    switch position 0: Z - L1 - L2 - L3 - xx - 10
    position of the switch L1: Z - xx - L2 - L3 - xx - 10 and x - L1 - xx - xx - 8 - xx
    L2 switch position: Z - L1 - xx - L3 - xx - 10 and x - xx - L2 - xx - 8 - xx
    L3 switch position: Z - L1 - L2 - xx - xx - 10 and x - xx - xx - L3--8 - xx

    But there is a simple way to remake this contraption from an ammeter switch to a phase switch :)

    Here is the procedure:
    1.Set the switch to ZERO
    2. remove the bottom cover
    3. slide out the switch assembly (no screw, ratchet, etc.)
    4.remove the jumpers between contacts 1-5 and 5-7
    5. steps 3, 2, but vice versa - it is useful to know what the setting was (from step 1).
    6.connect L1, L2, L3 according to the description on the casing, and enjoy the selected phase on terminal 8.

    More detailed information:
    The switch assembly is three switches on one axle. The contacts are numbered on the following switches: 1-4, 5-8, 9-12.
    Inputs: ground 5, L1 6, L2 2, L3 8; ammeter: 3, 7 (external terminal markings: 8, 10 respectively)
    The jumpers are factory set: 1-5, 2-4, 3-11, 5-7, 6-10, 8-12, 9-11.
    Position 0, shorted: 6-5, 8-7, 1-2.
    L1 position, shorted: 8-7, 1-2, 9-10.
    L2 position, shorted: 6-5, 8-7, 4-3.
    L3 position, shorted: 6-5, 1-2, 11-12.

    The cross-section of the jumpers (plates) is probably less than 1.5 mm2, as well as the jumpers in the form of cables (? 1.3 mm, if the caliper works well for me). Some cables are clearly thicker. I do not know how it relates to the declared 20 A.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the search for a manual modular phase switch that can replace automatic phase switches like the PF-431, with a minimum load capacity of 20A and compatibility with 4mm² wires. Users express concerns about the reliability of automatic switches, citing issues such as low load capacity and high failure rates. Suggestions include various models, such as the SK603 and SK20-2.4419, with discussions on their wiring diagrams and operational principles. The conversation highlights the need for a switch that can handle voltage drops and phase failures without complex electronics, emphasizing the reliability of manual switches in residential applications.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Looking for a manual, DIN‑rail phase selector for 20 A loads? One user shows “a simple way to remake this contraption” and flags thin jumpers vs the declared 20 A rating. [Elektroda, pkar, post #17529271]

Why it matters:** This FAQ helps homeowners and installers choose or adapt a safe manual phase switch without trial‑and‑error boom moments.

Quick Facts

What problem does a manual phase switch solve in a home panel?

It lets you pick the best incoming phase when one phase sags or disappears. This is useful on overhead rural lines where phases drop during storms. Manual selectors avoid sensitive electronics and keep control simple for critical loads at home. [Elektroda, robertcb, post #16624064]

Is a manual DIN-rail phase selector the same as an automatic PF-431?

No. PF‑431‑type devices switch automatically on undervoltage. A manual selector requires you to turn a knob to choose L1, L2, or L3. The manual approach removes electronics and contactor needs but relies on the user to act. [Elektroda, robertcb, post #16624064]

Can I use a 3‑position modular switch for manual phase selection?

Yes, but choose a cam/selector model wired as a source selector, not only for meters. Ensure the internal program closes or isolates the right contacts in each position to avoid faults. Ask suppliers for cam switch programs suited to phase selection. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

What are current transformers (CTs), and why do some switches reference them?

Ammeter selector switches often route CT secondary circuits. CT systems need specific shorting per position to protect meters and maintain measurement. Using a CT selector as a power selector without rewiring can cause dangerous conditions or damage. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

Is SK603 a drop‑in 20 A manual phase switch?

Not as shipped. One test wired as labeled caused a loud failure. The unit is an ammeter switch inside. A forum user documented a contact reconfiguration that then provided a usable phase output on terminal 8. Verify current paths and ratings. [Elektroda, pkar, post #17529271]

How do I safely reconfigure an ammeter switch to select phases?

Three‑step snippet from a user’s working method: 1. Set handle to 0 and remove the bottom cover. 2. Slide out the stack and remove internal jumpers 1‑5 and 5‑7. 3. Reassemble and connect L1/L2/L3 per case marks; take output from terminal 8. Validate under no‑load first. [Elektroda, pkar, post #17529271]

What load current should I plan for—16 A or 20 A?

A member proposed a 16 A unit for typical home use, while 20 A was the OP’s target. Another user questioned whether the SK603 internals truly support 20 A due to thin jumpers. Design for continuous current and check thermal limits. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16624303]

What wire size fits these switches—do I really need 4 mm²?

The OP asked for 4 mm² terminations. Before buying, confirm the terminal’s rated cross‑section and tightening torque. Some ammeter‑type switches contain small internal links that may bottleneck current, even if terminals accept thicker wires. [Elektroda, robertcb, post #16623257]

Is there a wiring diagram for Hager/Legrand style selector switches?

One user found the Hager ammeter switch diagram on a regional site, clarifying terminal numbering and CT routing. Always obtain the exact connection program for your model to avoid miswiring phases as CT circuits. [Elektroda, mawerix123, post #16625617]

Can I feed an ammeter selector directly with L1/L2/L3 to get one output?

Not unless its cam program is designed for source selection. CT‑oriented selectors short different windings per position. Misusing them on mains can produce faults, damage, or trips. Select a cam switch programmed for phase selection. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

Which cam switch models were suggested as better fits?

A contributor recommended ordering a Spamel cam switch with the right connection program in a DIN‑rail version with cover. They cited SK20 variants like SK20‑2.4419 or SK20‑2.632 as suitable examples to request. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

What’s a cam switch (a.k.a. modular selector)?

It’s a rotary switch with a defined contact program per position. Manufacturers like Spamel or Hager offer many programs. You specify poles, positions, and bridging so each click makes the needed source or CT connections. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

Any edge cases I should plan for, like lightning or surges?

Yes. The OP warned that electronics in automatic switchers may fail after nearby lightning. Manual selectors remove electronics but still need proper surge protection upstream for the installation. Grounding and bonding remain critical. [Elektroda, robertcb, post #16624064]

How can I confirm terminal labels like L1/L2/L3, 8, 10, and Z?

One tester mapped SK603 positions and found internal links and ammeter terminals 8 and 10. Their notes show which contacts close in 0 and L1/L2/L3 positions. Verify your unit’s mapping before energizing. [Elektroda, pkar, post #17529271]

What quick diagnostic catches miswired CT‑type selectors?

If the diagram shows terminals tied to CT secondaries with a common return, it’s not a power selector. Look for programs that short two CT windings in each position; that’s a CT selector signature, not a mains switcher. [Elektroda, cinepi, post #16626215]

What simple search tip helped find candidates?

A member suggested searching for “manual phase switch.” Use vendor terms like cam switch, source selector, and DIN modular to refine results. Cross‑check contact programs before purchase. [Elektroda, januszbe, post #16623277]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT