FAQ
TL;DR: If your Electrolux EWT 136541W won’t fill, confirm the inlet valve gets 230 V and listen for a click—“there is something wrong with the water supply” if power and valve are OK. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630506]
Why it matters: This FAQ shows how to diagnose no-fill, drain-cycling issues fast without replacing good parts; it’s for DIYers and technicians troubleshooting EWT 136541W.
Quick Facts
- The inlet solenoid can be bench‑tested at its rated voltage (often 230 V AC); a healthy coil audibly clicks. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16629997]
- Repeated short drain bursts with no fill were observed despite a clean inlet strainer and working pump. [Elektroda, Adam_Heniek, post #16629862]
- A faulty or misread hydrostat (pressure switch) can inhibit filling even when the valve is fine. [Elektroda, jack200, post #16630382]
- Service mode can display diagnostic prompts; read error indications before swapping parts. [Elektroda, Gobro, post #16630413]
- If the valve is powered and functional, investigate water supply restrictions or hose kinks immediately. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630506]
Why won’t my Electrolux EWT 136541W load water?
Start at the inlet valve and supply. If the solenoid receives 230 V and the valve is good, the fault points to water supply restrictions or plumbing to the machine. Check the tap, hose, and any kinks or blockages before suspecting controls. “There is something wrong with the water supply.” [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630506]
How do I test the inlet solenoid valve safely?
Read the valve’s rating label. If it’s 230 V AC, disconnect the coil, then briefly power it from a safe test lead. A sharp click indicates the plunger moves. If silent or buzzing, replace the valve. Use an RCD and insulated connectors, and never touch live parts. “It should click.” [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16629997]
The washer drains for a few seconds, pauses, then repeats—what does that indicate?
Short, repeated drain cycles with no fill suggest the control is waiting for a valid water‑level signal or water entry. Confirm the pump isn’t stuck on and verify the machine can admit water. Clear the drain filter and recheck fill behavior afterwards. [Elektroda, Adam_Heniek, post #16629862]
How do I confirm the valve is getting power?
Measure AC voltage at the valve coil during the fill stage. Set the program to start, then probe the two coil terminals. Presence of mains voltage means the control is commanding fill; absence points to wiring or control issues. [Elektroda, niewolno2, post #16630474]
What is a hydrostat (pressure switch) and can it block filling?
The hydrostat senses tub water level via an air tube. If stuck in a “full” state or its hose is blocked, the control inhibits filling even with a good valve. Inspect the air hose for clogs, reseat it, and verify switch action with gentle pressure. [Elektroda, jack200, post #16630382]
How do I enter service mode to read errors on this model?
Use the model’s service mode to display stored prompts or codes before replacing parts. The thread advises entering diagnostics and reading what the washer reports; follow Electrolux’s service sequence for your EWT panel layout. [Elektroda, Gobro, post #16630413]
Could a clogged drain filter really stop the washer from filling?
A severely clogged drain filter can disrupt initial cycles and confuse level sensing. Clean the filter completely, reassemble, and retry a standard program. If the symptom persists, continue with inlet, hydrostat, and supply checks. [Elektroda, Adam_Heniek, post #16629862]
The valve clicks and sees 230 V but no water enters—what next?
Verify upstream supply immediately. Open the faucet fully, straighten the inlet hose, and check the wall-side strainer. If the plumbing is restricted, the machine won’t fill despite a healthy valve and command. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630506]
3-step how-to: rapid no-fill diagnosis
- Read the valve label to confirm it’s a 230 V AC coil.
- Command a fill and measure for 230 V at the coil terminals.
- Bench-test the coil briefly at 230 V; a clean click confirms actuation.
[Elektroda, jarek225, post #16629997]
When should I suspect the control board (programmer)?
If the valve tests good, receives correct voltage intermittently or not at all when commanded, and plumbing is clear, escalate to the programmer. Replace or repair only after ruling out hydrostat and wiring. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630396]
What tools do I need to troubleshoot this fault?
Use a true‑RMS multimeter for AC measurements, insulated probes, and a safe mains test lead if bench‑testing the coil. These let you verify the 230 V command and confirm valve action quickly and decisively. [Elektroda, niewolno2, post #16630474]
Is there an edge case where everything tests fine but filling is still slow?
Yes. A bent or partially collapsed inlet hose can allow a click and voltage yet still starve flow. Straighten or replace the hose to restore normal fill rate before suspecting electronics. [Elektroda, jack200, post #16630382]
Does a pump that runs briefly at start mean it’s broken?
Not necessarily. Many programs purge residual water first. In this thread, the pump worked, but filling never followed. Treat the short drain as informational, then verify fill command and supply. [Elektroda, Adam_Heniek, post #16629862]
What’s a safe rule for mains testing on this washer?
Work de‑energized unless measuring. When live testing a 230 V coil, use insulated tools, avoid exposed conductors, and keep one hand clear. “It should click” quickly—if it doesn’t, disconnect and reassess. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16629997]
My panel labels don’t match older service guides—what then?
Electrolux updated control layouts. If your buttons differ from older guides, still enter diagnostics and read prompts, then map functions by response rather than icon. Prioritize reading what the machine reports. [Elektroda, Adam_Heniek, post #16630463]
I cleaned the inlet strainer—what else should I inspect upstream?
Open the wall tap fully, check the wall-side strainer, and verify building water pressure. A clear machine strainer doesn’t guarantee upstream flow. Address supply issues before replacing internal parts. [Elektroda, jarek225, post #16630506]
